what exhaust do you have in your Turbo'd civic?
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high flow ceramic cat and 2.25 mendrel bent piping... going to get a test pipe soon. i don't have a turbo yet, im going to get a k20a swap in the near future
Last edited by HondaLuver; Sep 19, 2003 at 03:35 PM.
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explain test pipe, is it the same thing as a flex pipe, if so then i understand, what is the point of a cat on turbo car, wont it get so hot that it melts the guts, if u want to pass emissions just adjust ur AF
C2i0v0i1c...a test pipe is nothign more than exhaust pipe that goes where your cat used to be. your wrong about adjusting your A/F to pass emissions. if you dont have a catalyic converter on your car anymore then chemicals and by-products of combustion engines will pass though into the atmosphere which pollute the ozone etc etc etc....no matter how clean your car burns if you dont haev a cat you will not pass emissions. best bet is to buy a testpipe that bolts on and use that for 364 days out of the year and the day u go for emissions put the cat back on. even though a turbo car runs hotter after the first 12 inches that the air flows out of the turbo it is cooled down enough to pass through the cat which is much farther than 12 inches......my advice is to get rid of the cat anyhow b/c the faster you can get air moving out of your exhaust the faster your car will spool up. airflow is #1 when it comes to a turbo'd car.
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okay.. lets say we're drag racing... and you have a 3" exhaust...
would you really want to lose that much back pressure?? you want to keep the low end powerband high too... i realize that it only takes a couple feet to hit boost but still that low end in the beginning helps out a lot...
would you really want to lose that much back pressure?? you want to keep the low end powerband high too... i realize that it only takes a couple feet to hit boost but still that low end in the beginning helps out a lot...
sorry iamboo but your wrong about low end power being what gets you off the line....torque is what wins races especially a 1/4 mile race because torque is what gets you to that 60ft mark fast. having a free exhaust lets your turbo spool which creates torque quicker ending in a faster 60ft time (if you can keep the wheels from spinning). the problem is knowing what is the right setup for your car. i chose to keep a 2.5" downpipe and testpipe b/c hot air moves faster in small places and its helpful, by the time the air makes it to my 3" section it is expanding and needs that extra space....with any turbo'd system its been proven time and time again that no exhaust backpressure is the best........if you really want to see take your car the dyno and i bet that if you do a run with a full exhaust and then unbolt it at your testpipe/cat and dyno it again you'll pick up 15-20hp to the wheels. on my dsm i could run .2-.4 quicker times on the 1/4mile just by unbolting the exhaust.
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Lets make it simple to understand.....
The opening exhaust turbine is only a 2" opening, and it has the turbine physically blocking the exhaust path. So basically you have less than a 2" exhaust until after the turbo. Having this small of an exhaust passage creates just about the right amount of back pressure. You need back pressure to make low end torque, but you dont want as much for high end hp. But since the turbo is force feeding the engine, you dont have to worry about not having high end power
The opening exhaust turbine is only a 2" opening, and it has the turbine physically blocking the exhaust path. So basically you have less than a 2" exhaust until after the turbo. Having this small of an exhaust passage creates just about the right amount of back pressure. You need back pressure to make low end torque, but you dont want as much for high end hp. But since the turbo is force feeding the engine, you dont have to worry about not having high end power
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