swap price
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I'm sure it's on here somewhere but I'm not about to look through pages for a quick answer. About how much is it for parts for a k swap? k24 preferred or tell me the best combination of k20 and k24 parts. Thanks!
#5
Re: swap price
Price varies on your location and on your luck to find certain parts at low prices... some people can find the parts cheap on local sites such as cragslist or their nearby junkyards. I've been talking to a local guy who claims he did it all for under $2k by picking up parts over a two year span. He also said he would trade with some of the sellers.
It all comes down to your willingness to find parts and the availabilty of the parts in your area.
It all comes down to your willingness to find parts and the availabilty of the parts in your area.
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Rep Power: 289 Re: swap price
2000 dollars isnt possible. The mounts alone are 400 dollars.. If you have the ability to weld the RSX mounts into the appropriate locations then yes you can do it for a lot cheaper but you won't do it for 2000. You will spend AT LEAST 4000 dollars on this swap I assure you. I can make you a parts list if you want I've made one dozens of times.
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Rep Power: 171 Re: swap price
I'm in the middle of accumulating parts for a k24a1 swap out of a crv (picked up the motor with accessories for $400 last week! woot!) and my current budget is $3000-3500. $4000 if I decide to go kpro right away.
The k24 swap can definitely be done on the cheap if you wait around for deals and such.
The k24 swap can definitely be done on the cheap if you wait around for deals and such.
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Yeah that stuff can add up fast. I'm trying to be meticulous about the planning and not be in a hurry so I don't nickle and dime myself to death. Don't want to end up with a car half put together, realize I need something, then have to pay a premium for it.
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Rep Power: 289 Re: swap price
Yea.. you have to remember sorting out the exhaust, air conditioning if you want it. How to actually mount the engine... subframe... it can really add up ridiculously fast. Your best bet is to try and buy as complete of a swap as possible
Subframe
Half Shaft
Axles(base rsx if you want to use your civic knuckles)
Engine
Transmission
Mounts
Clutch lines
Power steering lines
Oh man I'm going to stop right there lol
Subframe
Half Shaft
Axles(base rsx if you want to use your civic knuckles)
Engine
Transmission
Mounts
Clutch lines
Power steering lines
Oh man I'm going to stop right there lol
#11
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Re: swap price
There is a K20 type R for $4600 complete with 6 speed tranny, ECU and axels. I think your in Jersey, the motor is in Maryland.
http://www.md-jdmmotors.com/engine_d...hp?EngineID=93
http://www.md-jdmmotors.com/engine_d...hp?EngineID=93
#12
Re: swap price
2000 dollars isnt possible. The mounts alone are 400 dollars.. If you have the ability to weld the RSX mounts into the appropriate locations then yes you can do it for a lot cheaper but you won't do it for 2000. You will spend AT LEAST 4000 dollars on this swap I assure you. I can make you a parts list if you want I've made one dozens of times.
Last edited by CGaud; 08-10-2013 at 12:02 AM.
#14
I have the OEM version of weight reduction. DX
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#16
I have the OEM version of weight reduction. DX
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It was done last spring. However, it's always better to over budget. Plan on spending X amount, and it it costs less, then you can get those Mugen rims you've always wanted.
#20
Re: swap price
Realize this thread is a couple of months old, but for anyone who may be interested going forward
5 -8K minimum if you purchase used/ off brand stuff
More if you want quality parts
A whole lot more if you also want it boosted
The stuff necessary (off the top of my head);
Motor
Whatever parts the motor is missing/ or worn out (belt/ oil pump/ etc.)
You want the motor rebuilt how about the head
Transmission
Resurface flywheel
Clutch
Will you want the axles locked
Will need to re-plumb the clutch line
Hondata or equivalent
Throttle cable
Subframe
Axles (Civic SI but dont be surprised if you end up upgrading to higher strength)
Will you want to retain the AC and PS if so youll need to buy some expensive high pressure hoses
Motor mounts
Shift cables
May want to upgrade the shifter (the stock plastic one sucks)
Complete exhaust
Header
Radiator
Radiator hoses
Radiator fans
Either need to rewire the harness, or purchase an adapter
Likely need a billet TPS
Oil/ plugs/ who knows
Complete fuel system upgrade
A lot of fabrication
And I'm probably forgetting a few things
Ghost
5 -8K minimum if you purchase used/ off brand stuff
More if you want quality parts
A whole lot more if you also want it boosted
The stuff necessary (off the top of my head);
Motor
Whatever parts the motor is missing/ or worn out (belt/ oil pump/ etc.)
You want the motor rebuilt how about the head
Transmission
Resurface flywheel
Clutch
Will you want the axles locked
Will need to re-plumb the clutch line
Hondata or equivalent
Throttle cable
Subframe
Axles (Civic SI but dont be surprised if you end up upgrading to higher strength)
Will you want to retain the AC and PS if so youll need to buy some expensive high pressure hoses
Motor mounts
Shift cables
May want to upgrade the shifter (the stock plastic one sucks)
Complete exhaust
Header
Radiator
Radiator hoses
Radiator fans
Either need to rewire the harness, or purchase an adapter
Likely need a billet TPS
Oil/ plugs/ who knows
Complete fuel system upgrade
A lot of fabrication
And I'm probably forgetting a few things
Ghost
#21
I have the OEM version of weight reduction. DX
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Not sure what you mean by a whole new fuel system? We didn't upgrade anything in my EM2 for the new engine, and it works fine. No problems, and it's been 2 years strong now. As for the hoses, you can go to any autoparts store and get the necessary hoses you need cut to length. The only ones you may want to not cheap out on is the fuel intake line. Mine is drying out a bit. So I plan on ordering an OEM one from Acura. Just make sure you buy decent hose clamps.
The list above is pretty good. Lots of things to consider. You don't really know what you may still need (or are missing) until you actually start the swap. That's why people say to over budget.
The list above is pretty good. Lots of things to consider. You don't really know what you may still need (or are missing) until you actually start the swap. That's why people say to over budget.
#22
Re: swap price
Not sure what you mean by a whole new fuel system? We didn't upgrade anything in my EM2 for the new engine, and it works fine. No problems, and it's been 2 years strong now. As for the hoses, you can go to any autoparts store and get the necessary hoses you need cut to length. The only ones you may want to not cheap out on is the fuel intake line. Mine is drying out a bit. So I plan on ordering an OEM one from Acura. Just make sure you buy decent hose clamps.
Also think you would agree, stock D17 and a K20 are different motors - performance wise
The stock EM2 fuel system is designed for stock - and it's not adjustable/ tunable
Using it to run a k20 will work (obviously because you are)
But any upgrades..., any running at higher RPMs..., anything done to the k20 that causes the motor to exceed the stock specs of the D17
The motor will run lean - and lean motors go boom
So one can absolutely run a K20 w/ D17 fuel system
The question is - why chance it
A solid fuel delivery system is the very foundation to building HP
=================
Side Note;
As I respond to K swap questions / posts, I'm trying to NOT give another false expectations
But rather set realistic expectations
So all my K20 reply's will be conservative by default
It is a lot of work
It will take longer and cost more than what you think
There is a lot of research and hunting down of parts required
When you've solved one problem - three more pop up
But - is it worth it - ABSOLUTELY
I simply don't want to see someone start - get frustrated / blow their budget / ultimately fail
I'd rather they start slow..., expect a lot of work..., expect it'll cost more - then end up successful - and possibly with a few dollars left over for gas
btw; upgraded fuel system does not mean higher pressure - usually - It does mean providing higher volume delivery capability at a constant pressure - thus eliminating potential for fuel starvation (running lean and gernading the motor)
Ghost
Last edited by Ghost Rider; 10-06-2013 at 10:00 PM. Reason: Changed B17 to D17 d'oh
#23
I have the OEM version of weight reduction. DX
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Agreed. Nicely said. This is something I may have to look into.
Edit: I think you meant the D17, not B17
Edit: I think you meant the D17, not B17
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