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so i just got done putting together my internals list. after i put all the internals together im going to work on getting a turbo kit. so lemme know what you guys think, or if there was anything i missed.

o Crower stage 2 cam shaft
o Wiseco pistons 76mm bore 8:8:1
o Deatsch werks injectors 575cc
o Kpro cam gear
o Crower valve train upgrade (use with stage 2 or 3 cam shaft)
o Walbro fuel pump 255lph
o F/I rods
o Kpro Ecu
o Head studs

 
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Wait on the pistons until you pull your motor, and get the bore honed out. You may need larger pistons if the bore ends up larger than 75mm. Even .5mm will make a difference.

Also, why are you going with Crower maxi-lite rods instead of their F/I rods?

If you're going to go big, ditch the AEM cam gear and just get k-pro. This comes with it's special cam gear and also solves your EMS problem.

What are your power goals? The 575cc jobbers will be good to about 275-280whp, but no more than that. Here, have a look at this page:

http://injector-rehab.com/issg/

 
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im going to competly pull the engine and tear it apart. im looking to make upper 200 to mid 300 with the turbo. but im going to be running N/A inbetween putting together a turbo. between getting a turbo pieced together i want to make sure that my car will still be reliable to run back and forth to work everyday. all the stuff is off of dezod.com, they have alot of good stuff but its limited in some places.

 
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nice list

 
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thanks.

IMO i dont thinks its all that great of a list but thats just me, so im looking for some input if theres anything better i could use or anything ive missed.

 
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here a little secret order the stage 3 cam directly from crower it's cheaper because by the time dezod adds shipping it's going to be a lot more expensive.

Also get a Kpro it's the only way to get the idle speed and idle duty straight it's also the only way to raise the rev limit properly which you are going to need to do with the stage 3 cause it's pulling strong all the way to my limiter at 8100 and it still wants to make more power higher up hehehe.
It's also worth every penny even though it is expensive and the headaches and the money you save by having the k-pro it ends up paying for itself.

I would also agree with clint go with the F/I rods instead of the maxi lights

and throw some ARP head studs in there and torque em to 80ftlbs so you can hold some boost

 
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There's really not a whole lot of mystery to building a high whp D17.

Rods+pistons+k-pro+fuel+cam+boost+3" exhaust+stack 'o cash = big numbers

You've got that right there in your first post. Just get a decent snail to blow air up your skirt and you'll hit your goals pretty easily.

 
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alright ill check into ordering the S3 from crower. ive heard alot of good things about Kpro but ive never used it. so i was just seeing if thats what everyone would recommend. i also checked out Kpros web site and it doesnt have one for a 01 civic posted. im guessing because theres not alot of people buying for 01's that ill have to call them directly to place an order, right?

F/I rods is what i was thinking of getting (since im planning on going boost after everything else is completed) but again i just wanted to ask for suggestions on that. and head studs would be a must. i can believe i forgot them

 
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just the stuff on that list is going to cost me about $2600. and then plus shipping, kpro, turbo and everything to go with it plus ect. im going to take a shot in the dark and say everything im looking to get is going to cost between 5-7k . hopefully i can keep it under 5500, but maybe im just crazy

but ill keep in mind $$=

and most of this work will be done while im in school for auto service tech. so maybe the class could use my car as a project or build and hopefully the school will contribute some cash or atleast give me an A.
LETS KEEP OUR FINGERS CROSSED!

 
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the hondata k-pro for the d17 works for the 01,02,03,04,and 05. Actually any k-pro will work. you can get a k-pro for and rsx or an si and it will work as long as you get the hondata/aem d17 cam gear that has the cam trigger marks on it.

 
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thats good to know. thanks for the info

 
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ok so i was just in my garage taking off my valve cover. when i took it off, i got to thinking. what i was thinking was, when i change my pistons, do i nessisarily HAVE to pull my engine? i am planning on getting my holes bored, but cant i just take the engine apart while leaving the block in and take the entire car to a shop for boring? if i could do this it would save me alot of trouble. the only problem i ran into (during my idea) was the crank shaft.

if none of this is possible or would cause too much trouble than just pulling the whole engine, then i could stop thinking about it. just wanted to get some intake on this.

 
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Machine shop is just going to laugh at you if you try to bring the whole car. the block has to be taken out and put on a special machine to be bored out. You can change pistons with the engine in the car it is possible but why it is not that hard to pull the whole engine.

 
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im not sure. it was just a thought i had. i kinda figured it was possible but not feesable i just have crazy random thoughts
thanks tho

 
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ok, so i found kpro ems form clubrsx.com http://www.clubrsx.com/cr/HD-KPROD17.html
the d17 ecu is not compatible. any suggestions on this?

anything else i need to convert to get this ems into my car?

*EDIT* ansewered my own question sorry. this whole ems is a "learn as you go kinda thing" for me, i dont know too much about engine management (as you can tell). lol

 
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it's ok I still have crazy thoughts if I win the lottery of putting together a fully built turboed k24 in an EM2 and making it all wheel drive

 
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hahaha ive been there. swapped, awd, and right-side drive
seems like it will never happen

 
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ok .. about removing the engine .. im getting fully built and the machine shop is leaving in my motor. I don't need to go over size pistons so why pay 400 bucks for extra labor to remove the engine and extra money to bore it out jus to fit bigger pistons which do nothing extra performance wise.

Kpro ... this is the cheapest way u'll get it ... www.clubrsx.com -- BUY THE KPROed ECU from a rsx guy 02 type s is what i baught ... i paid 900 shipped for the ECU Kpro'd ... THEN find ur local hondata retailer and get them to order u the d17 cam gear for 180 bucks .. u'll have the best EMS for ~1100 max!!!!!

as far as injectors go .. cross them out and get the RC saturated 750cc, highest ones u can get that will support 400 whp easily withouth a resistor box.. trustme, don't even ask questions jus do it, 575 is too small ... i have the srt4 577cc and im changing.

exhaust foos is right .. 3" for sure no less
as for rods .. don't get crower, save urself 400 bucks and get K1 rods .. "they are jus as strong as the crowers if not better" quotes Paul at Dezod. and compatible with weisco pistons .. the only difference is foreign steel vs domestic steel .. so cost prices is lower SIMPLE

I suggest you DON"T get the stage 3 .. yes i know it makes the most power str8 through .. but this is going to be ur DD , and that is the reason i stuck with the stage 2 turbo ... idle will be nice and drive will be smooth.

Another suggestion ... POWER = in head
why not spend the extra money u'd save getting the k1 rods into port work ??? it will jus give u more power

and don't think u can slap all this and go fast reliably ... none of these turbo guys mentioned ... FIND UR SELF A SIK *** TUNER!!!! without tune, ur not guranteed ****

 
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stage 3 is a 100 times smoother than the stage 2. it is due to the lobe separation, and you actually get better gas mileage. honestly the stage 2 is a pain in the *** compared to the stage 3. I was going to write a thread up on this but I wanted to get my dyno tune done first which if i can make it is scheduled for august 16 so I can have #'s to go with. do not waste money on a stage 2

 
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^ car feels like it idles like stock with stage 3

 
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Meh, you can find the Crowers on eBay for $700 new.

Bigger pistons = more displacement which = more power.

If your machine shop is willing to change out rods and pistons with the engine in the car, then there is something wrong.

I haven't driven a stage 3 cam, but have been tossing it around in my head. My stage 2 is hinky, but that might be the piggyback. Once I get k-pro, if it gives me issues, it's going up for sale and I'm buying a stage 3. My car idles pretty much like stock, just the AFRs are glitchy.

 
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does that come with everything i need? cost isnt really a problem.



i thought the 575cc would be too small so i was looking into other options on those. those were just there so i can get an idea for a total.


i was going back and fourth on the rods i need. so its good to hear abou the k1


again, i was going back and forth, so i decided upon myself to change from the stage 3 to stage 2
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yea im already looking for a good tuner, just so it doesnt come back and bite me in the ***.
having trouble finding one already. i know theres one in orlando who did a nice d17 build.

 
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I have the stage two which I used to run in a box in my basement. Now I am running the stage 3 the difference is like night and day I would advise any one looking at getting the stage 2 to forget about it and just go stage 3 it will save you money and you will be much happier in the long run. I have seen justin's(boilermakers) car with the stage 2 turbo and it ran about the same as my stage 2 NA. I found that the stage 2 power band is really spikey and rough, yeah you feel vtec and it puts you back in your seat, but the powerband is so fat and smooth with the stage 3 and I would always have problems with the idle it would stall if I went full lock on the steering wheel while parking. No idle issues what so ever with the stage 3 in fact no issues with the stage 3 at all. Alot of people are under the impression that a heavily modded car has to be rough and tough to drive but if it's done right it should be nice and smooth and pretty damn comfy.

 
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does anybody know if i can use F/I cam shafts while im N/A and still have a driveable/safe car? after 3 hours of internet work my google search found 2 articles where people actually perfer F/I cam shafts on an N/A car.

 
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It will be drivable and safe, but it just won't be optimal. Buy the cam, but wait to install it. You'll be much better off.

 
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yeah i hear what your saying. thanks foos.