Rep Power: 279

Currently I'm waiting on Dezod's pistons in order re-build after my blown head gasket.

Already in my possession:
CROWER forged connecting rods
ARP head studs/bolts
a new Honda HG

I'm planning on running like 80% duty on my RSX injectors and stock fuel pump and whatever PSI of boost that happens to be with my current setup. I'm not building for max power - I just wanna be able to beat the **** out of a turbo Civic all day long... it IS my daily driver after all.

 
Rep Power: 330

im at 100% duty at a little over 6.5 psi around redline on my rsx-s injectors. are you running the e-mangle?

 
Rep Power: 423

By the time you notch the block, rebore the cylinders buy new pumps, bearings, belts, etc..... you may as well punch up the boost. 80% on RSX injectors is about 5 psi, which begs the question, why bother?
Spend the $400 or so to convert to a return system and run 440s... you're gonna put 3k into the motor as it is.

 
Rep Power: 350

And a good management system like kpro wouldn't be a bad idea either. Even running rsx injectors with a REAL computer on a vtec engine, you'll be at aound 200 whp.

 
Rep Power: 0

Why $400 to convert to a return system? I think for $75 or less plus the regulator...

 
Rep Power: 423

Regulator, O-ring fittings and plug for the regulator, 15' of stainless hose, 4 hose ends, bulkhead fitting and nuts for the tank cover, pressure gauge = 292.55
Add a walbro at another 95ish and you get 400 bucks.

 
Rep Power: 352

boilermaker1........ i think ur wayy to smart......

 
Rep Power: 350

Of course you can go way cheaper if you find a hydraulic shop with brass fittings and rubber hose. I only use "pretty" anodized fittings in the engine bay.

 
Rep Power: 287

That's great that you're putting all this work into the performance. I'd love to see the faces on the people you smoke when it's done.

 
Rep Power: 279

Wel... I am running an E-Manage... and at this point... I really don't feel like running a fuel line all the way to my backseat. I'm having the dealership I used to work for (Honda) perform the rebuild (as I blew the HG).

I am totally done with modding for performance right now... my car is in shambles and I need to fix all the damage.

Boiler... Andy... If either of you feel like explaining exactly how easy it is to convert and how it would take me 1 hour to do... then maybe.

And maybe someone can explain just how so many people run 8 psi... are they overstressing the fuel and running too lean?

*EDIT* and btw... all I'm trying to accomplish here is to make around 200whp SAFELY so I can beat on it and actually enjoy the car.

 
Rep Power: 350

I told you how...kpro and a good tuner with a return system and rising rate fuel pressure regulator.

 
Rep Power: 279

does anyone make a thicker head gasket for our cars?

 
Rep Power: 423

They're overdriving the injectors. At 7 psi, I'm running at 94% duty.
You cant run 80% and expect the car to make 200 HP.... the turbo pushes alot more air than a type S does, even with VTEC engaged... the injectors simply cant keep up with that amount of air volume. The S is making power off compression.... and your turbo effective compression is a lot higher than 11:1

 
Rep Power: 350

You don't need a thicker headgasket than stock.

 
Rep Power: 350

Everything should hold together fine. The only thing thats going to cause problems is detonation. I wouldn't get them unless I had to change a headgasket.

 
Rep Power: 279

The car now has everything installed on it. It runs and doesn't blow up... but I don't drive it over 3500 RPMs at the moment - not until it gets tuned.

It makes some scraping sound... like the pistons scraping up and down in the cylinders. I had the rings gapped to the spec given out by WISECO by the Honda dealership I used to work for... so is that just the rings/cylinder walls learning to play nice?

It quiets down after it warms up - but after 100 miles or so should it still be making that sound? Or is that just the sound of aftermarket pistons and it'll always sound like that?

Lastly, the place I'm going to dyno it at says that I should simply put in a Walbro 255L/H pump, bigger injectors and a FPR... is that safe without the return setup?

Anyway... in a week or so I should have some dyno numbers at around 7psi... and shortly after that some new pics.

 
Rep Power: 423

scraping is not a sound you want to hear.... something isnt right. Either you have a ring with a sharp edge on it, you cracked a ring putting them in or the bore is too tight. Who built the motor?

 
Rep Power: 350

Scraping? Take the car to a mechanic and see if they can diagnose where its coming from.

You can't run an aftermarket rising rate fpr without a return line.

 
Rep Power: 279

The Honda dealership I used to work for built the motor. The guy that did the work has been there for 15 something years and is the guy they bring all the rebuilds to.

Now a few days later, the car makes the noise, but ALOT quieter. I really need to get this thing tuned because it's running so rich - it constantly smells like gas.

*UPDATE*
I spoke to the mechanic... he claims a piece of paper coming with the pistons instructed him to give 3/1000in. clearance to compensate for piston expansion. I remember a few sheets of paper in there with a bunch of stuff about clearance and gapping, but didn't read the information at the time.

This would be backed up by the fact that it goes away after it warms up. Also, another mechanic has a turbo'ed B18C1 6th Gen and his makes the same noise, apparently.

 
Rep Power: 262

Are you hearing piston slap when the engine is warm?

 
Rep Power: 279

Well... it still makes a noise, but now I've been told be several people that aftermarket pistons just sound different. It's hard to describe over the internet what it is... but most of the people I've talked to have described it as "piston slap."

I won't worry about it until the people at the dyno get a hold of my car and tell me their opinion.