16psi of boost civic (what about traction) please advise
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16psi of boost civic (what about traction) please advise
im currently building a d17a motor boosted. internals are low comp ross pistons, eagle rods, arp head stud, block guard, etc. im looking to build a 300whp at 16psi of boost civic just like what hector did with his orange civic.
with that kind of big horsepower, dont we lose traction (overspin between gear shift)? what do i need to keep the traction? it will be useless having big power car without traction.
with that kind of big horsepower, dont we lose traction (overspin between gear shift)? what do i need to keep the traction? it will be useless having big power car without traction.
yeah the ingalls help, you also might wanna be brave and try a d16 lsd you would be my hero if you tried it. Ems (assuming thats what you will run) has traction control and has functions where you can run low boost out of the hole then 2nd gear can run higher boost.
First off, Hector was at 18 psi.
Second, if your head is stock, you will have a very tough time hitting that mark so you will have to have a cam and valvetrain.
Third, I have motor mount inserts and drag radials. No major wheelspin issues if you know how to launch properly. Its the driver 9 times out of 10. Practice, practice, practice.
And I hope you plan on getting the AEM standalone. You're also going to need a different intake manifold to run an injector big enough to support that power, not to mention a return line with a fuel pressure regulator.
What motor do you actually have. There is no d17a motor. There is a d17a1 non vtec, d17a2 vtec-e and d17a6 (I think) vtec-e. If it isn't a d17a2, you will need that head.
Second, if your head is stock, you will have a very tough time hitting that mark so you will have to have a cam and valvetrain.
Third, I have motor mount inserts and drag radials. No major wheelspin issues if you know how to launch properly. Its the driver 9 times out of 10. Practice, practice, practice.
And I hope you plan on getting the AEM standalone. You're also going to need a different intake manifold to run an injector big enough to support that power, not to mention a return line with a fuel pressure regulator.
What motor do you actually have. There is no d17a motor. There is a d17a1 non vtec, d17a2 vtec-e and d17a6 (I think) vtec-e. If it isn't a d17a2, you will need that head.
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Rep Power: 0 First off, Hector was at 18 psi.
Second, if your head is stock, you will have a very tough time hitting that mark so you will have to have a cam and valvetrain.
Third, I have motor mount inserts and drag radials. No major wheelspin issues if you know how to launch properly. Its the driver 9 times out of 10. Practice, practice, practice.
And I hope you plan on getting the AEM standalone. You're also going to need a different intake manifold to run an injector big enough to support that power, not to mention a return line with a fuel pressure regulator.
What motor do you actually have. There is no d17a motor. There is a d17a1 non vtec, d17a2 vtec-e and d17a6 (I think) vtec-e. If it isn't a d17a2, you will need that head.
Second, if your head is stock, you will have a very tough time hitting that mark so you will have to have a cam and valvetrain.
Third, I have motor mount inserts and drag radials. No major wheelspin issues if you know how to launch properly. Its the driver 9 times out of 10. Practice, practice, practice.
And I hope you plan on getting the AEM standalone. You're also going to need a different intake manifold to run an injector big enough to support that power, not to mention a return line with a fuel pressure regulator.
What motor do you actually have. There is no d17a motor. There is a d17a1 non vtec, d17a2 vtec-e and d17a6 (I think) vtec-e. If it isn't a d17a2, you will need that head.
i will spend time practising to get used to the car though, but i had driven a 400whp b16a eg6 that is not actually driveable. it spins to much. i dont know whether to use aem standalone or haltech standalone. still yet to decide.
anyway, i will giive it a try. the car will be ready next month. actually im not into drag, i just want a powerful street car that hopefully will 'eat' dohc vtec turbo or even evos...
will keep u updated will more questions then
Good luck finding an older head that will mate to this block. I'll tell you there isn't one that bolts up so that route isn't an option. Not to mention an older head will not use coil packs but a distributor. It'd take more time and money to do that than it would be worth.
As far as the haltech, good luck getting it setup. You're better off with the aem that is not only plug n play but has a basemap for a d17 as a starting point.
Sounds like you're in way over your head. You have alot of research in front of you, read around, all your questions have been answered already.
As far as the haltech, good luck getting it setup. You're better off with the aem that is not only plug n play but has a basemap for a d17 as a starting point.
Sounds like you're in way over your head. You have alot of research in front of you, read around, all your questions have been answered already.
With a cam, big intake, p&p head many I'm running @16psi. 305 whp
With 50 shoot of nitrous and a P&P head plus a big intake many I was running @18psi 301whp
I have not tried 50 shoot with my courent set up but I'm looking at 350+whp very very soon.
And traction can be compensated with good driving skills just have to know how much gas vs cluch to use when lounching,.
AEM EMS is the best and quick solution to run your engine efficiently.
Plus return fuel system, injector pumps. presure reg, and a good clutch.
Is a lot of stuff but is posible.
With 50 shoot of nitrous and a P&P head plus a big intake many I was running @18psi 301whp
I have not tried 50 shoot with my courent set up but I'm looking at 350+whp very very soon.
And traction can be compensated with good driving skills just have to know how much gas vs cluch to use when lounching,.
AEM EMS is the best and quick solution to run your engine efficiently.
Plus return fuel system, injector pumps. presure reg, and a good clutch.
Is a lot of stuff but is posible.
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Rep Power: 0 return fuel line, injectors, fuel pump are ready to install. just need a clutch and flywheel now. what do you suggest hector? in here, aem is not as popular as haltech. people around here, play around with haltech more than aem. no offense, aem is good i know but nobody has tune it before in my area.
return fuel line, injectors, fuel pump are ready to install. just need a clutch and flywheel now. what do you suggest hector? in here, aem is not as popular as haltech. people around here, play around with haltech more than aem. no offense, aem is good i know but nobody has tune it before in my area.
Haltech will cost you more down the road cause you may need additional sensors, harnesses, and may lose some multiplex functions on the car like A/C and gauge controls.
AEM has a base tune and it's not realy that hard to learn for someone that has tune Haltechs.
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Its all in the suspension and tires..
A good set of coilvers will be a must. Make sure you get the proper bushings for control arms to prevent deflection, race motor mounts, and a sticky set of tires.
Also with your turbo set-up a gear dependent boost controller (AVC-R) will be a huge asset but tuning it can come with headaches.
A good set of coilvers will be a must. Make sure you get the proper bushings for control arms to prevent deflection, race motor mounts, and a sticky set of tires.
Also with your turbo set-up a gear dependent boost controller (AVC-R) will be a huge asset but tuning it can come with headaches.
With the aem, all you need is a $35 gm boost solenoid wired into an output that you select to run gear dependent boost. All you have to remember is you can't boost BELOW the wastegate spring pressure.
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