NoSpleeny

iTrader: (3)

So... do you guys think you're running lean with the stock ECU controlling the fuel? Or do you think it runs fine?

It hasn't thrown a CEL yet.

Boilermaker1

iTrader: (16)

Ummmm any computer that tries that hard to run 14.7:1 should not be running a boosted motor without a piggyback helping it. It'll probably blow up long before it throws a CEL.

MajinB

iTrader: (21)

dude, i want to shoot you...its frustrating how people abuse stuff like this. sorry. go get a fuel system! or don't, and sell me the broken motor/turbo kit when it busts.

NoSpleeny

iTrader: (3)

hrm... I thought the A:F ratio was 12.7:1...

second... from what people say on these boards and other forums, they say that the stock computer should be able to handle boost. However it pulls timing and cuts fuel ... unless you have a part like Missing Link.

Suggestions? Ideas?
I'm still trying to figure this out.

I do have a larger fuel system. I asked a simple questions... can you run boost safely on a stock ecu. I've heard of many people doing it without problem.

MajinB

iTrader: (21)

don't. it depends on what setup you have. get a VAFC2 or a emanage. get something.
you CAN do it, but your motor will die

NoSpleeny

iTrader: (3)

I have an emanage right now, however, I can't get it to work. I've hooked it up EXACTLY how the diagrams on 7thgen say.. but it sounds like it's firing on 2 cylinders and dumping the other 2. Suggestions?

MajinB

iTrader: (21)

ebay a harness for 30 bucks and forget about it

NoSpleeny

iTrader: (3)

Show me one?

Boilermaker1

iTrader: (16)

You cannot, and should not be:
-running bigger injectors without something to control them
-running a stock ECU without a piggyback
-running the piggyback without a tune
-trying to run boost at 14.7:1. Thats the ECUs target.

If you don't have a missing link or e-manage to cutoff the map sensor from sending a positive pressure signal to the ECU, then it should be throwing a MAP code the instant you hit boost.
The car is probably misfiring like crazy because the ECU doesn't know what to do with the injectors.... most likely its just flooding it.
Do you even have anything monitoring your A/F or EGT?
The stock computer can run boost WITH HELP. It alone will not work, you'll max out the fuel trims, it can't handle the injectors and its targeting an A/F that will blow the motor in no time. its too lean for boost.

NoSpleeny

iTrader: (3)

Funny thing is I haven't gotten a CEL yet when I hit boost.
I've tried putting in the emanage but when I run the emanage, it doesn't manage to keep the car running. Like the call stalls out after starting.

Boilermaker1

iTrader: (16)

Well if you wired it yourself, then start there.
IS the car actually boosting? Where is your gauge hooked up to thats reading this. Plug a real-time scanner into the diagnostic port and read the MAP reading that the computer is getting. Then look at what you have the settings for injector correction set to, if there's no tune in the e-manage, then tune the thing, just leaving a blank map in there accomplishes nothing. If you can't get a map in there, then take it to a shop, have them check the wiring and tune the car, its far cheaper than picking up pieces off the highway.
Check your spark plug gap, if its too narrow, the car won't idle. With nothing controlling bigger injectors, it DEFINITELY won't idle, its just flooding.
If you're knowingly pushing the car into boost without any sort of computer control, and you have no idea what your boost A/F is, then you deserve all the carnage under the hood that you get.

NoSpleeny

iTrader: (3)

I wired it myself. I double checked the wires again and again. I even had another friend look over the diagram to make sure I wired them properly and I did.

The car is actually boosting. I have the gauge hooked up to the vacuum line and it reads -16 at idle and up to 5 psi when boosted.

The emanage was owned by somebody else previous to me and I'm using the tune that was on there. It was a D17A1 block (just like mine) so it should be identical tuning.

The car idles perfect with the stock ECU but once you hook up the emanage and run the coilpacks off the emanage, the car doesn't even idle. It stalls out.

Help!

skipbarber

iTrader: (34)

check to make sure you have the input and output wires for the map sensor going the right way.

NoSpleeny

iTrader: (3)

I made sure of that. Green goes to ECU, white goes to map sensor. green/red wire.

The car seems to have a bigger problem, it sounds like it's not firing on some cylinders with the emanage engaged.

MajinB

iTrader: (21)

im gonna guess that the emanage is not tuned

NoSpleeny

iTrader: (3)

The person I bought it off told me it was tuned already.

I'm thinking the emanage could be fried or...

Boilermaker1

iTrader: (16)

Tuned on someone elses car is not tuned. It needs to be tuned for your setup. If you're trying to run the car and saying its running like **** based on someone elses tune, this is pointless. If you're sure your wiring is right and you have all the dials and jumpers on the e-manage set right, then the car should be running, the A/Fs should be showing when the car is in open loop and running the e-manage programed tune. Emanage also streams data, you should be able to determine what e-manage is doing if you drive with the laptop connected to it. Take it to someone who knows e-manage and have the car tuned.
E-manage doesn't really have control of direct ignition, it probably isn't doing much. You can pull a little timing here and there, but for the most part, it leaves the stock ignition as it is. If the car is running with the ECU running the ignition, then disconnect the e-manage ignition harness and leave the main and injector harnesses connected.... see what that makes it do.
You really need to get a scanner hooked up and see what the ECU is reading, without that, you're basically shooting in the dark. A lot of numbers stream out of that diagnostic port and its all pretty useful in seeing what may or may not be causing a problem.

MajinB

iTrader: (21)

what he said^^^!!!

NoSpleeny

iTrader: (3)

The emanage was purchased along with the turbo kit. The emanage was tuned to the exact same turbo kit along with the same engine D17A1. Therefore the car should run "ok" until it is tuned further. I have ensured that the wiring is right and the jumpers are set right according to the Emanage FAQ printout that is on 7thgen.

Should it not?

So I could run the emanage without the ignition harness... and just the main harness connected?

Boilermaker1

iTrader: (16)

ugggggh. YOUR motor is NOT someone elses motor. The programming is constantly tweaked by the factory as they build them. They all run slightly different and each model year will react differently as they ironed out bugs and made changes to the software. It should be running it provided that everything was replicated when the parts were transferred, but the programming is not tuned to run on your car.
If you bought someone elses running setup and the only thing you changed was wiring the e-manage into the car, then thats where I'd be spending 99.9999999% of my trouble shooting time. Or just buy the boomslang e-manage harness and be done with the ****in wiring all together.

Do all of us a favor, post the ENTIRE setup, what the idle RPM is, what the idle A/F is, what the full load A/F is, vaccum at idle, vacuum under decel and full boost pressure, exactly where the gauge is tapped into, the wastegate spring setting, if you can read it, approximate the idle ignition timing and the MAP sensor pressure.

MajinB

iTrader: (21)

lol your frustrated^^

NoSpleeny

iTrader: (3)

I haven't gone to the car yet but the numbers are approx from what I remember.

The entire setup is GT25 Garret Ball Bearing turbo
Custom log-style manifold
Stainless steel piping
Front mount
HKS BOV
Braided lines for oil
RSX-S injectors
Turbosmart boost controller
Zex 1 degree colder plugs
Junction box for vacuum/boost

Idle RPM (stock ECU) - 700 rpm approx (idles same as before turbo was installed).
Idle RPM (emanage) - does not idle (starts but stalls out)

A/F - Need to go read it...

(stock ecu for running)
Vacuum at idle: -16
Vacuum under decel: -18
Boost at full pressure: 4.5

The gauge is tapped into the junction box that is placed at the large vacuum line directly behind the throttle body.

The wastegate is internal and I'm not sure where to read it.
The rest I'll need to see.

andyman97

iTrader: (14)

Stop boosting until you fix the issue with the emanage or you WILL damage the motor. In fact, don't drive the car at all until you figure it out.

NoSpleeny

iTrader: (3)

Assuming the emanage is running fine... the green light flashes on the emanage... and the maps are set to the previous owner of the emanage which has a "similar" configuration...

should the car not turn on to begin with? Like it should at least idle with the current map setting no?

MajinB

iTrader: (21)

the answer is no. in fact, just listen to all of us and don't run the car. have it towed to a shop.

jackburton

iTrader: (1)

I think you should do some research and try to get your car to atleast start. Do not rev it at all and either take a charge pipe off or open up the wastegate.
OR if you time is worth a lot just get it towed to the nearest tuner. The key to power and reliability is the tune. Spend a good mount of time on the dyno, it will be better than spending money on a new engine.

03-Acura-1.7-EL

iTrader: (14)

Is it BigE turbo kit? If so, then he run with these settings and blew a headgasket in a matter of days after install. I see the same happening to you, at least.

jackburton

iTrader: (1)

http://www.7thgencivic.com/forums/sh...=259285&page=3
Do you have the same turbo that was run dry?

03-Acura-1.7-EL

iTrader: (14)

^^
I'm suspecting this was the guy who sold him the kit.
I havent seen him posting anywhere saying he was tuned w/his set up.

....NoSpleeny, I think your set up is totaly out of tune.

familycar

iTrader: (4)

these guys are 100% correct. boilermaker has already expplained why the tune for you car inst the sam as the other guys. he didnt mention that the altitude, humidity, temperature are also factors involved. if his car was bought in a different enviroment then the ecu is tuned differently to account for the factors i mentioned. you cannot expect to take a kit form someone else and swap in on your car and have everything be perfect. right now your risking your motor because you want to be stubborn and not listen to the advice given to you. if it happens we will all say i told you so. there is plenty of help here for you to figure out what needs to be done. obviously you dont know what your doing wiht the emanage so let a professional do it for you instead of blowing your motor just playing around. your choice at this point but if you arent going to listen and take the help then dont bother asking