cooling...
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I hard wired my fans so i can A) turn them on while ther car is off, or B) while the car is running, they will turn on threw the tempature swich *normal operation* or C) be off completely for cold cold days. I have a wireing diagram if you want one. Its not that hard you can even uses your stock relays if you want.
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DO NOT run a cooler t-stat. Hondas need to run a little hot. Its not a ford, the clearances in the engine are tight, you need water above 200 and you need the oil about 205-220 for the car to run right.
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Originally Posted by ncirom2003
are there any oil cooler kits out there that screw onto the filter spot and also relocate the filter?
i cant do the oil cooler if it needs to be "T'ed in" to the sending unit feed hole.
i cant do the oil cooler if it needs to be "T'ed in" to the sending unit feed hole.
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The stock honda radiator is actually a pretty efficient brass-copper cored one. They cool rather well. They will cool much better than an aluminum radiator of the same dimensions and fin density.
hmm.i was thinking of upgrading my radiator. its kinda hot here. 30 over deg C. so ive to keep things real cool. its like an oven in my engine bay. any1 has any idea which radiators to turn to? or have any other radiators that u guys are running other then stock?
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ive got a vented hood, mesh grill without a shroud and a manual fan thats on automatically by default and just regular coolant changes to keep cool with 95 F temps. im looking at a high output fan right now, about 1800 cfm just to be good with added heat from the boost.
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I've upgraded to an koyo racing radiator and replaced 2 my stocker fans with slimlines.. more room and flow more air. No overheating problems here.
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hell, i have the stock radiator, stock fans, and a very large intercooler in front of my radiator blocking the airflow. And i live in the middle of the mojave desert where it often reaches 110*-115*F. And i dont have any overheating problems.
The stock cooling system is very well designed. If the completely stock coolant system can keep my motor running at normal temps, then it should be able to do that for everyone.
If your car overheats, there is a completely different reason for it. And if you are looking for a larger radiator just because the engine bay gets hot, then you are buying something that will not help out a bit. Even if you get a radiator that is as large as the car, with an insane fin density...... the engine bay and the motor will still be the same temperature because the thermostat will simply close, causing the coolant to heat back up to normal temps.
there are reasons for going with different things. Some people on here do road racing which can put a lot of stress on the coolant system. Thats when you would buy a better radiator for preventative purposes. Some people install slimline fans, but thats mostly because the stock fans get in the way of most turbo systems.
The stock cooling system is very well designed. If the completely stock coolant system can keep my motor running at normal temps, then it should be able to do that for everyone.
If your car overheats, there is a completely different reason for it. And if you are looking for a larger radiator just because the engine bay gets hot, then you are buying something that will not help out a bit. Even if you get a radiator that is as large as the car, with an insane fin density...... the engine bay and the motor will still be the same temperature because the thermostat will simply close, causing the coolant to heat back up to normal temps.
there are reasons for going with different things. Some people on here do road racing which can put a lot of stress on the coolant system. Thats when you would buy a better radiator for preventative purposes. Some people install slimline fans, but thats mostly because the stock fans get in the way of most turbo systems.
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mine was fine.
I drove up to Mammoth Mountain in my civic while it was running about 10 psi. I went from 2300 ft to 9,008 ft over the course of about a 1 hour haul up a grade. I was in boost just about the entire time, and at 4000 rpm or higher. And i never had any problem with my car overheating.
I was worried about it, and nervous the whole time. But it ran great the whole way up there
I drove up to Mammoth Mountain in my civic while it was running about 10 psi. I went from 2300 ft to 9,008 ft over the course of about a 1 hour haul up a grade. I was in boost just about the entire time, and at 4000 rpm or higher. And i never had any problem with my car overheating.
I was worried about it, and nervous the whole time. But it ran great the whole way up there
hmmm. i was thinking abt getting a thermostat. and are there more effective coolants out there? i raised my hood though. a couple of washers. thats all. but hell. this place is hot and humid. thats y im worried.
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DO NOT change the T-stat. Those 160 deg ones are bad news. You need a honda to run semi-hot for it to run best. Oil a little over 200 and water a little over 200 is right in the ball park.
Run straight distilled water, it cools better than antifreeze. Throw in a little Water Wetter to keep the pump bearings happy.
Run straight distilled water, it cools better than antifreeze. Throw in a little Water Wetter to keep the pump bearings happy.
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Originally Posted by ncirom2003
50 50 coolant water, you need the antifreeze
you also need antifreeze because the stuff in it helps prevent oxidization in the system, rust isnt good in the system. and no it doesnt absorb the heat, the water does, but antifreeze brings up the boiling point of the water.
at least do a 30/70 or something close to that. its not good to run straight water, your only gonna cuase problems in the future.
at least do a 30/70 or something close to that. its not good to run straight water, your only gonna cuase problems in the future.





