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Okay, so I am trying to figure out, without much success, what the difference between Block Guards and Sleeves are? Why use one over the other, can you use them in conjuntion with each other, effectiveness of each, etc.? Can anyone maybe shed some light on this for me? Thanks

 
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Guard sits on the block, sleeves go in the cylinder

Sleeves work best generally.

 
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/\/\Agreed. Sleeves provide a wear surface for ur piston rings. That better then letting them wear in the bore. A block guard fits around each cylinder bore right below the head and protects it from expantion under boost.....i believe.

You would have to bore out each cylinder to fit a sleeve, right?

 
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sleeve>block guard

 
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An aftermarket sleeve replaces the stock sleeve with a much stronger material that can withstand higher temperature and higher cylinder pressure, and therefore more boost and horsepower before it breaks. Most sleeves can handle 800+ whp with no problem.

A block guard is a semi-ghetto thing that is only a 1/2" thick ring that goes around each cylinder and stops wobble. Under high stress, stock cylinder sleeves can wobble at the top, causing the piston to hit the sides and all sorts of bad things. A block guard can help to stop that. Problem with this: by the time you hit this kind of wobble, you're at a high enough boost to blow the pistons and bend the rods, so getting a blockguard on a stock motor really is pointless.

Don't cheap out, if you're going to do something, sleeve and build the motor. Only sleeving is pointless because the stock pistons and rods are not very strong.

 
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^^^^ listen to this man, he knows his ****


just to add.......... blockguard = cheap
sleeving = expensive (couple grand)

 
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Sleeving shouldn't be much more if at all over $1000. I sleeved my Accord with custom Golden Eagle Godzilla's before they started offering off-the-shelf sleeves for the F-series blocks for only $900.

 
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well, the actually sleeving itself is like $1,000........but the labor to rip out motor and reinstall is like $500. Plus, there will be other expenses.

 
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btw......u work for streetrays ?????

 
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Was one of the original partners there, no longer with them.

That, and as long as the motor is out being sleeved you may as well build it to the teeth I think my dyno #'s speak for themselves for a single cam Honda

 
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Yeah, i got screwed by them and VIS...... i paid for a Invader hood, i got a OEM. I called Willie at streetrays and he called VIS and back and forth and i kept calling both. After a few months, Streetrays lost their VIS acct for selling hoods to cheap and in the end I got stuck with a OEM hood and i paid for a Invader

btw........those #'s are very impressive for a single cam motor

 
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While were on guards and sleeves, if I wanted to run Dezods kit reliably at 8 poudns, and never turn it up or down, would i need to sleeve anything? I'm talking honest reliability, I'll pay the big bucks if it makes it more reliabale. LOL I'm so dumb =*(

 
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I'm sorry to hear that, when was this? I left late last year with all of our accounts in tact, and VIS was doing strongly.

 
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you will be alright as long as she is tuned and you don't run it hard for long periods of time.

 
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I ordered it last february and dealt with the situation last April/May.

 
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But what if i DO run it hard for long periods of time? LOL, I'm addicted to highway racing lol

 
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I forget who the guys name at VIS was that i dealt with, but he was a complete *** to me in the end telling me that since i bought the hood from streetrays, then i have to deal with them. He told me this after 2 months of calling him b/c he kept telling me that my hood didn't come in yet. I told Willie that he lost the acct, he didn't even know that. Of course, maybe VIS gave me a line of ****. Willie told me to just send back the hood and he would refund me the money. I kept he hood cuz i didn't trust anybody at that time.

 
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ricer

 
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LOL, you and I are one in the same then =)

 
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sleeve

 
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My goodness, I wish I had known this was going on at the time, I would have taken care of everything. That's too bad that VIS told you that, and disappoints me that they would have fed you that line.

I am no longer part of the company, but I sincerly apologize for the experience that you had with us.

Once again, I wish this had been brought to my attention at the time, as customer service was always a top priority of mine.

Back on subject, as far as I'm concerned, If you are making enough power to justify it, Sleeving a blcok along with building the internals is one of the smartest moves you can make besides internally balancing the bottom end including the crank.

Surprisingly, when I was helping build a friend of mine's Prelude, the factory crank alone was off by 4 grams... surprising, considering that the H22 is routinely taken well beyond 8000RPM with only valvetrain work, I can imagine the stress on the bottom end with such a poorly balanced crank, let alone the rest of the internals.

 
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Dart > Sleeved.

 
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Dart blocks have cooling issues in street cars... so for most people AEBS > Dart

 
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We just dropped VIS. They just bought out wings west. I have nothing but trouble from them. On the up side it got me off my butt and i started to make my own stuff.

 
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Back to the Subject:

If you plan on doing only 8lbs to 10psi, a stock block is good enough for now.
Once you do more boost its best to upgrade the internals with at least pistons and rods.
If you are boosting over 15psi, that is when you should get the block Sleeved along with pistons and rods.

Sleeving for the d17 isnt that much, we charge $880 and that includes all the bore, hone and hot tank already.

 
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If I already had pistons and rods, how much more would you charge for block assembly?

 
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Email me please at exospeedam@yahoo.com
I dont go on the forum that often to get an answer back to you ASAP.
You want us to supply other parts but you have the pistons and rods and the block.

 
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I got quoted $4,000 for a fully built block, pistons , rods, bearings, balanced crank and sleeved. And they would supply me with a block for that price. Is that a good price guys. Thanks.

 
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Its an ok price assuming its all the top parts that are available right now.
You have to be more specific what you are getting.

The d17A2 blocks we've done are about $3500-3700 range with us supplying the block

 
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hey Will......... you use rs machines sleeves right ?????

As far as nobody building the d17.......the car is still fairly new. Many ppl still are under factory warranty and 99% of us still have a car loan to pay for. Alot of ppl that build their motors (ex: 5th and 6th gens) have their car paid off or bought one cheap for a project car. I still have a car payment and i don't need another loan to pay for. I would love to build my bottom end to run 1 bar daily......but i need my car paid off first as do most ppl. I'm sure you know this already, but just wanted to point that out