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I just put in my turbo, 4psi for now, and I had to turn up the idle a little so it wouldn't die. it also tries to stall at certain rpm's. Anybody know how I can make it run smooth like it did before the turbo. Am I going to have to take it to a shop so they can tune my SAFC for it to run properly? Any info. will be appreciated!

 
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make sure you get it tuned. can't stress that enough

 
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I am going easy on it right now, and my knock sensor isn't throwing any #'s bigger than pre-turbo #'s. Its not running lean until I let off the gas, so that's good, the timing isn't going to advance. I think the air/fuel ratio just needs to get adjusted a little. and its only at 4 psi, so I don't think I'm going to blow anything up...I hope.

 
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So you guys think that's all it is, just an air/fuel prob. I'm not hearing any strange sounds so I think I'll be ok until I get it to the shop for SAFC tuning. I am definitly going easy on it though, shifting at 3500rpm's. Oh, I have no check engine lights either, and as ****ing high tech as our cars are, the puter would tell me there is something wrong.

 
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definately get it tuned by a professional shop via dyno or wideband...they will work everything out

 
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a lot of the time you can't hear detonation

get it tuned and don't take shortcuts like many people here did

 
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I'm going to take it to a shop and get it dyno tuned and the works, I want it done right so I don't have problems later. and detonation makes a "ping" sound and my knock sensor isn't showing any knocks, so I think I'm ok. if it breaks, its still under warranty and I'll just put all the factory stuff back on and take it back to the dealer

 
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You MUST get the a/f ratio tuned before driving a turbo civic.

 
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did u install a check valve ?

 
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DO NOT DRIVE IT. So many people have blown motors on like 1 or 2 psi untuned keeping RPMs low. You can cause damage fast, get that tuned TODAY (or set up a date today)!!!!!!!!!! Find out everything you can about a turbo'd car maintenance, or you will blow that motor.

 
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Is that all you are running for fuel??? SAFC, Nothing else???

 
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yeah def not a choice fuel controller. But I am doing my install and taking out the wastegate spring and driving it straight to get tuned. It's a must. by the time your ecu throws a cel it''s usually too late and the damage is done. Park it.

 
Rep Power: 413

You said that you needed to raise the idle to keep it running? You have something other than a/f happening if so. Vacuum leak, sensor unplugged? Did you do any other work besides the kit?

 
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I don't have the air temp sensor in the charge pipe, would that cause the problem and throw a cel? and no I didn't do any other work to it, just the turbo. its not running lean, that's for sure. the exhaust smells like gas, bad, so I know the timing isn't advancing due to running lean. so are you saying I should take the wastgate spring out so it puts no boost at all into the motor? will it run? and yes I have an OBX missing link. I drove it to school today and I never gave it enough throttle to make the boost gauge go above 0. and it runs fine just going cruising down the road. its just rough at idle and when you go to start off from being stopped. after it gets going its fine.

 
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^^^like he said, vacuum leak and or ML you have ML installed right? , i noticed that when didn't have the vacuum hose connected, that my car seems to die out and when I floor it, it's really rough! and chokin, but when i got the vacuum installed that fixed the problem...

FYI: 20psi VAC on idle... just my .05

 
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that should be it... i'm 99.99% sure that that's causing the problem, ATS controls the amount of fuel flow aswell, so that's the reason why you are runnin rich as hell...

set you AFC settings all to 0 until you get some dyno time...

 
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I'm going to put that in tonight and see what happens. I'm pretty sure that's it also. that's man. ****ing turbo pain in the ***.....lol

 
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Let it idle for about, 20-30mins, but I prefer, driving it around the block, 25-30MPH, mine didn't compensate until the 3rd day of 10-15miles of driving daily... so take your time and let the POS ECU do some adjustments...

BOOSTING=well just put it this way... (on my point of view)

--gas=4.30gl--45+BUCKS full tank
--maintenace=27 bucks every 2500miles-3MONTHS
--turbo=1200
--turbo add ons=400
--air filter change=every 3months=25bucks

--smoke average cars, smoke ricers, BOV goes off see chicks panties drop--priceless

 
Rep Power: 285

if the vafc is tuned wrong for idle, the car will not run correctly. Make sure the vafc is zero'd out at idle, and installed properly.

The car will not throw a check engine light if the vafc is slightly modifying the sensors. But it could be modifying it enough to make it run bad.

 
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I put that air temp sensor in the charge pipe and just for the hell of it, took off the missing link, and it runs great. no rough spots at all. Its an OBX missing link, do they suck and I should get a different one? I don't have any cel's with the missing link off and its not running rich as **** anymore. I noticed that the vaccum info. from the SAFC was a lot lower with the m-link on, which would make the ecu put more fuel in and that was causing my problem. without it, the car runs nice and smooth with no cel's. I'm happy I'm still driving it easy though. I took it up to 2psi of boost on the way to work this morning and no cel's came on. is the m-link required? I've been told that our ecu's don't like boost and it throws cel's, but mine hasn't and I'm wondering what the deal is with that. Anybody have info. about it? Thanks guys

 
Rep Power: 298

it won;t notice boost up to a certain point. Spdrcrchk was running 8psi with no ML and it never threw a cel.

 
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Soon as I hit 4 PSI, my CEL came on. I beg to differ.

 
Rep Power: 285

the check valve probably leaks a little. This leak causes a decrease in the amount of vaccum the motor sees. This adds more fuel and makes the car run horrible at idle.

Get a new check valve

 
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it has a hole in it with a little air filter in the middle of it. should I plug that hole or just get a new/different ML. what kind do you guys suggest?

 
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I ran like 7lbs( intergated) untuned and no missing link
ECU does compensate some.
the difference for me was that i was using RSX-S injectors
stock one will only get you to around 2-4 untuned and then that A/F liight jumps to red.
The only reason i was ok was cause of the injectors so i was running rich, little less gas mileage but safer.
O..and when I did idle hard it was because the vaccum hose on the boost gauge came loose and i was loosing pressure.
Good luck wit the dyno

 
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thanks man. I have some DC5 type-R injectors but haven't put them in yet. when I do get them in, I'm going to turn up the boost to 7psi. but until then its 4psi me the bov sounds pretty good at 4psi though. its a greddy type S....I like it, its pretty..lol. Hey, what did you need to get the injectors in there. I know you need longer bolts and bigger spacers, but I don't know what sizes to get. you think you could help me out with that dude?

 
Rep Power: 284

I idle at -26mm hg..........is that bad?

 
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^^^^^^^^^^waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaahuhuhuhuhuh watahell is that!!!

it's like you askin what's the E=MC2 to me (a 2year old snotty lil kid) so sorry I don't know what they mean! I will only tell you what I know

 
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make your SAFC/VAFC display it in Kpa and I can tell you. mine idles between -95 and -85 Kpa. that's what it idled at before the turbo install also.

 
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ok, now I have another question. when I let off the gas, sometimes it makes the nice blow off sound, and sometimes it makes an air flutter sound. and sometimes it makes the flutter sound and then the nice blow off sound. do I need to adjust my bov. and if I do, does it need to go harder or softer? I have the greddy type S bov. I'm also starting to think the flutter sound could be the dump tube but I'm not sure. I don't like the flutter, sound it sucks.....lol