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TSI kit

Today was the first day i actually got to drive my car around after getting boosted. Only.....i got a really odd problem. I used ICU settings that CrewChief gave me:

Well.....at 1/4 throttle, the turbo spools up hella fast and the car takes off! But at Full throttle.....the turbo spools up kinda slugishly, and the car seems like it's hesitating...boggling around......it's really weird. Any clue?

My idea is that it's running way too rich at WOT, but at 1/4 throttle the fuel cut off is XXXX amount plus the added fuel from the 2 extra injectors is just right, but the amount of the fuel at WOT from the stock injectors plus the fuel from the added injectors is way too much. I tried messing around with the settings, taking each psi level down, but had the same problem.......someone help me out here.


Oh, and btw, no check engine lights.

 
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Is your MAP sensor voltage clamp installed properly?

 
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/\/\yep

 
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Gotta be the settings then, pull some fuel and make sure you have some way to monitor your a/f to be safe.

 
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/\/\that's the prob, i have no a/f gauge

 
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Get an innovate wideband, it should be the first thing everyone gets when they go turbo.

 
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mos def^^^^..........try to get some dyno time.

 
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get an A/F gauge and definately change the fuel settings...id say you could change them slightly but i wouldnt go crazy, next thing you know you go WOT and you're running way lean and boom...no good, but good look, just seems like you are running hella rich

 
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getting an a/f gauge on our narrowband sensor would at least let me know if i'm rich/good/lean right? I'm just wanting something (for now due to money shortage haha) that'll tell me if i'm either one of those 3. I'm not looking for something expensive to do tuning with. That's where my buddies dyno comes in.

 
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the narrowband would let you know, its not good to FINE tune with, but it will let you know what the a/f reading is just as long as its connected rite,

 
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btw mine was the same way, i could race all day at 25% throttle, but soon as i went WOT it would act sluggish, and at that time i was running way too rich...

 
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/\/\Yeah, CrewChief's helped me lean out the settings, so tomorrow i'll do a bit of testing and adjusting

 
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Is traction a problem now lol

 
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k, well i played around this morning for a good hour. From a cold start going down the road if i let into it, it was detonating!!! AHH! After it warmed up it was all good......except for the same problem as above/\/\/\. I cut all the fuel from the ICU in half and it was still running like crap at WOT, but this time also at 1/4, 1/2, and 3/4 throttle. Should i change anything like the Adjust rate percentage, or the ACYC??

 
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I can burn all through 2nd and chirp 3rd

 
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/\/\ on 7" tires!

 
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A narrowband AF will give you an extremly 'generic' sense of your AF ratio....remember on those gauges lean is anythign like 14.9 and up, stoich is 14.8 to 14.6 and rich is 14.5 and below....

And as well all know even a 14 is tooooo lean IMO for a boosted car (at least for a car that you plan on using often/a lot)

The innovative wideband would be a good choice, but it tends to be expensive...personally I'd suggest to you to use the PLX wideband (m300) for your ride...extremely easy to install...you can also get the m500 which is wireless!!

The m300 is 315 shipped to your door, and you can use it inplace if your factory primary o2 sensor!! :]

It is a heated unit too, so you usually hafta wait abotu 30 seconds after startup (which all turbo cars should do anyway) to ensure the sensor is at operating standard

If you don't like the gauge, you can also pruchase the AEM UEGO wideband if you want a normal 2 1/16 gauge for yur pillar pod too...

Pics of m300 here in my server: http://www.e-rak.com/cody/view_photo...18&id=P1010089


http://www.e-rak.com/cody/view_photo...18&id=P1010088

I'll get some daytime pics too!

 
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well if you leaned it out and it got worse maybe you where too lean to start with. Richen it up then. Without a A/f gauge of some kind you are pissing in the dark. also try starting out at 1/4 throttle and then stomp on it to WOT. and let us know what it does. Might just be a boost transition problem. Also at wot your first o2 sensor takes over. you could have a bad o2 sensor. that would do it too. Happened to me. So many things it could be if you dont have the gauges to know exactly. Wish I was there to help you out. kind of hard to help you tune somthing like that from a computer. I'll try my best though. keep the info comming to me.

 
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okay, back from the dead!
I'm having the same issue. Car runs really good at anything below half throttle. Above that it doesn't boost as high and feels very sluggish. Wondering if you ever solved the problem?

 
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I'm running the extreme kit and don't have that problem now. At first it was to lean on the low end of boost as in taking off so the guys at my shop did some conversions etc.. and changed all the boost setting up to 12 psi on the controller. We did some driving around and then tweaked the settings up or down depending on how it was running. Its not generic for every car it seems. We have about 6 people around me now running the same kit and we all have totally different settings. It came down to using the wideband from the shop and some dyno time to get the settings right for each one of us so if you want to figure out the real problem you might want to get that wideband in there


* oh yea.. and running boost without a a/f gauge.. your brave man very brave

 
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DO NOT USE TSI'S SETTINGS!!!!!!!!!!! I am running their kit. WHen I got tuned, 7lbs needed 30.0 ms to be in a good a/f ratio. If you are feeling sluggish, its because you are more than likely running lean and thats terrible. I was running super lean at first. Try these settings, see if they help out, if its more sluggish, than you are probably rich. But I doubt that.

turbo timer - 40-60sec
rpm - 6800 (whatever stock is in your car, lx is 6800, set it no more above, wont work anyways)

0psi - 12.0ms
1psi - 16.0ms
2psi - 18.0ms
3psi - 20.0ms
4psi - 22.0ms
5psi - 24.0ms
6psi - 26.0ms
7psi - 28.0ms
8psi - 30.0ms
9psi - 32.0ms
10psi - 34.0ms

2000 - 1.2ms (I forget if 2000 is the first setting, but I start at the first one
2500 - 1.6ms with these and work up)
3000 - 2.0ms
3500 - 2.4ms
4000 - 2.8ms
4500 - 3.2ms


boost level - doesnt work for ****, set it to 6 or 8
adjust rate at 63 or 68%
ACYC-4.0 hg-9 daily, 11 race (I could have the hg and acyc backwards, youll figure it out)


Hope this helps. These settings are running quite nicely on my car. Well, a month and a half ago. Its now 30-40 degrees hotter, so Im not sure what they will do. Tonight I will find out, finally fixing the last part on my car tonight.

Peace

 
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no ****, at least a narrowband is a nice way to tell if you are somewhat decent. I have a narrowband for now. I am short a little money on the wideband. I only need 100 bucks or so though til I order it. My dads paying 200 for my belated b-day gift. I had to get a lot of parts for my car, including a clutch recently. So I was broke for a little while, just getting caught up and running again this week.

 
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wow, this is back from the dead. I fixed that problem by adding on an Innovate Wideband system, and found i was running in the 17's (Lambda AFR)

 
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Wrong you are! I had a narrowband Autometer A/F gauge and when i was running in the shitty 17's, the damn gauge lite up "RICH"

 
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mine too^^, hehe. Was green, but way way lean. But at least if its red when Im driving right now, I know there is a prob. Like I forget to set my settings, lol. Its an idiot reminder for me. After setting them everytime, there will be one or two that you forget, but I see fast. Im ordering the innovative soon, I brought my car to the shop to fix it, so no more money out of my pockets. Now I can get the wideband, finally.

 
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red on narrow usually indicates >25's AFR