My dyno tune with DH head and vafcII (pics)
#33
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Rep Power: 788 Well I'm not totally disappointed. Tuning did improve low end a bit (enough to feel) when accelerating from a stop to 3k rpms, and overall feels faster than stock. Also the rpms are smoother and don't cut in and out as much.
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Rep Power: 273 yea.. i was talking to the guys at the shop here and showed them the pics.. they said if u go n/a then u need better cams and some oversized valves especially if they bored it out a lot.... my shop guys said that the correct way to do it is since our cars are sohc.. u port the exhaust side more than u would everything else bacause that in turn gives it gains similar to what would be found in dohc... but the exhaust side would always stay open unlike in dohc where both intake and exhaust sides open and close... but yea they said the same thing... u need something high flow on the intake said to let more in and high flowing on the exhaust side like no cat or high flow cat
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Rep Power: 788 Thanks for the advice everyone. Maybe in time I will add more stuff. For now I'm happy, and my next mod will be the jet coating to cool things down and speed the exhaust. Maybe later catback and intake back on.
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Originally Posted by gearbox
Thanks for the advice everyone. Maybe in time I will add more stuff. For now I'm happy, and my next mod will be the jet coating to cool things down and speed the exhaust. Maybe later catback and intake back on.
Dude, jet-hot coating is like $150 - you can get a nice cam regrind for that price!!
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Rep Power: 0 Damn, that sucks dude. I havn't installed my head yet (It's sitting on a shelf in my room until I get the cash and feel like putting it on). My exhaust ports are stuck sized, polished, and square? because Josh upgraded it or something. Intake size looks completely stock with some polishing.
I'm not sure how much I would gain from it. Mods to help move/push the air in/out are:
Short ram intake, greddy evo cat back, hp racing 4-1 header w/hiflo cat. Thats pretty much it. I plan to do a before Dyno before I stick it on, because if it blows butt I'm switching back and selling it on ebay.
I'm not sure how much I would gain from it. Mods to help move/push the air in/out are:
Short ram intake, greddy evo cat back, hp racing 4-1 header w/hiflo cat. Thats pretty much it. I plan to do a before Dyno before I stick it on, because if it blows butt I'm switching back and selling it on ebay.
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Rep Power: 0 Hey sorry to hear that man.
But if your looking for mods to improve those numbers might I suggest you do a valve body mod on the trany. You could get quicker shifts out of your auto and better acceleration. From that dyno It looked like your engine wasn't even pushing its limits, the trany probably robbed a lot more power than you think. The car can only move as fast as its weakest componet in the drivetrain.
Hope you find the numbers you are looking for.
But if your looking for mods to improve those numbers might I suggest you do a valve body mod on the trany. You could get quicker shifts out of your auto and better acceleration. From that dyno It looked like your engine wasn't even pushing its limits, the trany probably robbed a lot more power than you think. The car can only move as fast as its weakest componet in the drivetrain.
Hope you find the numbers you are looking for.
#39
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Rep Power: 299 You have an AUTO!! A HP stealing slushbox 100.00 whp on an auto sohc is not that bad. You are just 6 or so hp away from an ex 5 speed. My guess is an auto would put out around 85-90 whp stock. A ported head and a header are not going to suddenly turn your car into a monster. <-- sorry if this sounds harsh its not intended to. Maybe you can find a member with a stock auto and compare how it drives. That may give you a better idea of how well the mods are performing. A cam will help, but you can't expect too much on a sohc and an auto on top of that. Does anyone have a dyno on an auto. maybe Dezod did a baseline on his before the turbo.
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Rep Power: 788 I remember someone gave me their dyno of injen intake on lx auto and it was making 115whp or something good. Maybe the dyno was different tho. But I think you're right about the auto trans crap. It does feel faster than stock, especially in the lower rpms after the tuning. Even tho the tune only gave 2whp, it feels like more for some reason.
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Rep Power: 788 Dezod did do an auto dyno before the turbo:
Before Dezod Turbo: 103.7 HP & 95 FT/LBS of TQ SAE corrected
Before Dezod Turbo: 103.7 HP & 95 FT/LBS of TQ SAE corrected
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Originally Posted by gearbox
The head was ported alot, which may be worse. And it has hi flow valves as well, so I bet it would really help with turbo. But then again, I don't really have the money to pay for a huge turbo and then run a few psi of boost so the tranny doesn't go out. Maybe I should buy those instructions for the home depot supercharger and make my own
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Originally Posted by gearbox
Dezod did do an auto dyno before the turbo:
Before Dezod Turbo: 103.7 HP & 95 FT/LBS of TQ SAE corrected
Before Dezod Turbo: 103.7 HP & 95 FT/LBS of TQ SAE corrected
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Originally Posted by djmota
I think on that dyno He had dc header and exhaust. Not sure what intake or if he had an intake installed.
DC 4-1 Shorty
5 Zigen Fireball cat-back at that time
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Rep Power: 0 Try a Injen CAI im sure it will help in your case because your head is ported and it needs some airflow. Just my thought. I could be wrong though
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Rep Power: 788 Well if you look at the higher rpms tho, it was running rich. Then they added fuel with the vafc and it got leaner. Still a bit rich since the ideal ratio is 14.7:1
Just wondering cause I put the fipk on and plan to get aem pulleys and jet coated header. I'll prolly get it retuned next year with the new stuff.
Just wondering cause I put the fipk on and plan to get aem pulleys and jet coated header. I'll prolly get it retuned next year with the new stuff.
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Rep Power: 339 what? ... isn't the ideal ratio 13.8??
but yeah ... I really think you should consider getting a cam. If a ton of extra air nets you a relatively 0 hp gain, then that probably means that your cams and valves were already pretty maxed out to begin with ... get some high lift cams, high compression valves with some stiff valve springs ... hondata, rev to 8000 ...
oh wait, I'm thinking ahead of myself again
but yeah ... I really think you should consider getting a cam. If a ton of extra air nets you a relatively 0 hp gain, then that probably means that your cams and valves were already pretty maxed out to begin with ... get some high lift cams, high compression valves with some stiff valve springs ... hondata, rev to 8000 ...
oh wait, I'm thinking ahead of myself again
Last edited by aznboysrfr; 10-26-2004 at 06:53 PM.
#54
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Rep Power: 788 This is from toyota motors...
"For the catalytic converter to operate at peak efficiency, the air/fuiel ratio must be at the ideal stoichiometric ratio of 14.7 parts air to one part fuel as measured by weight. This is why the ECM tries to maintain a 14.7 to 1 ratio whenever possible"
?
"For the catalytic converter to operate at peak efficiency, the air/fuiel ratio must be at the ideal stoichiometric ratio of 14.7 parts air to one part fuel as measured by weight. This is why the ECM tries to maintain a 14.7 to 1 ratio whenever possible"
?
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Originally Posted by gearbox
This is from toyota motors...
"For the catalytic converter to operate at peak efficiency, the air/fuiel ratio must be at the ideal stoichiometric ratio of 14.7 parts air to one part fuel as measured by weight. This is why the ECM tries to maintain a 14.7 to 1 ratio whenever possible"
?
"For the catalytic converter to operate at peak efficiency, the air/fuiel ratio must be at the ideal stoichiometric ratio of 14.7 parts air to one part fuel as measured by weight. This is why the ECM tries to maintain a 14.7 to 1 ratio whenever possible"
?
My last dyno was 14.5
Maybe that explains it why even with tuning VAFC the ECU learns.
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Rep Power: 281 If you really wanyt to go fast forget auto. Might as well invest in a good manual transmission. You'll gain a second to 60mph and more than a second on the 1/4 mile pretty much a garanteed increase in your driving satisfaction.
Anyhow at-least you tried to work no the D17s your still one the pioneers in my opinion. Its just our freaking fuel economy emissions regulated engine!
Anyhow at-least you tried to work no the D17s your still one the pioneers in my opinion. Its just our freaking fuel economy emissions regulated engine!
Last edited by nindoo; 10-26-2004 at 07:02 PM.
#57
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Rep Power: 788 I thought lev was bad last gen and now they have ulev! Anything to make the car slower. Well I'm still gonna throw a little at the engine and see what I can do. I wish a company would make a real cam (not regrind) for our cars.
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Rep Power: 281 I'm sure your gonna figure out a way to make your car fast anyway. Anyhow all this work wasn't in vain, don't you need to do all the stuff you did if you want to run a turbo set up or nos? I'm sure you've done it right for a turbo set-up.
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Rep Power: 788 One thing I've been lazy about is checking the compression. Maybe next year That's gonna tell me whether the head is okay and if it is running higher compression.