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FAQ: For engine block internals (updated july 06)
11-26-2004
#32
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Originally Posted by DIZZLE
So whats were the dyno results?
I'll only be boosting about 8psi during the turbo brake in period.
So I don't expect much till later, probably in Jan when I get the RSX injectors and returnless fuel system install.
01-29-2005
#33
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Rep Power: 0 ok dude are you running a stock crank and is the sleeving ordered as a d16 with a 75 m size and the pistons are 75 also, and is the sleeving a direct fit or did you run into problems
01-29-2005
#34
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Rep Power: 280 the block is bored and sleeves are pressed in.. he used 76 mm pistons rather than stock (75). the only problem he stated was the bottom of the sleeves needing to be notched out in order for the rods to pass without hitting the sleeves. crank is stock also i think. i guess he will confirm all this. i've read that post multiple times, should have it memorized eventually. and i've already asked him if he has any specs on what notching they did to the sleeves.
01-29-2005
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Rep Power: 0 sweet thanx dude i just cant wait for the after market to hit this car i mean come one its a civic why havent they started any civic before these there are millions of parts. and are you doing a project to i am and its going to be turbo auto the rarest combo d17 turbo built and AUTO
01-29-2005
#37
07-04-2005
#39
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Originally Posted by XSRCivic
the block is bored and sleeves are pressed in.. he used 76 mm pistons rather than stock (75). the only problem he stated was the bottom of the sleeves needing to be notched out in order for the rods to pass without hitting the sleeves. crank is stock also i think. i guess he will confirm all this. i've read that post multiple times, should have it memorized eventually. and i've already asked him if he has any specs on what notching they did to the sleeves.
Pretty much we kept notching till the rod cleared
Here are detail pics so you get an idea
Also noticed the block guard I installed.
The holes are enlarged for better watter flow
All part numbers are included on the original post #1
With the contact number of where to get them
Once I get the images figured smaller I'll update the original post #1
07-04-2005
#40
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Rep Power: 304 I'll like to mention that the bearings are recomended and there is specific measurements for each engine.
You'll have to mach the number of the crank to the numbers on the block then using the tech book it will tell you what color combination to use.
The same goes for the rod bearings.
Very important.
All this info is very lenghty to explain the best way to learn it is to actualy read the service manual under engine rebuild.
You'll have to mach the number of the crank to the numbers on the block then using the tech book it will tell you what color combination to use.
The same goes for the rod bearings.
Very important.
All this info is very lenghty to explain the best way to learn it is to actualy read the service manual under engine rebuild.
07-04-2005
#41
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Rep Power: 272 Yeah I have the honda manual and you NEED these specs. There are like 4 different rod and 4 different main bearing sizes and every engine could have a different combo. DO NOT OVERLOOK THIS STEP.
07-06-2005
#43
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Originally Posted by jay78
how much the labor cost....for pistons >?? around 1g???
can it be done on a/t ??
if yes
is it worthed ?
can it be done on a/t ??
if yes
is it worthed ?
Different shops different prices.
My suggestion to you is to find two or three shops and get quotes.
It took me a year and I was patient and carefuly coordinated each step at the time.
I did a lot of reseach and a lot of the foot work my self.
There are no easy answers just got to do your homework.
Parts and contacs are included on the first post.
Is worthed if you do it right and don't get discourage if you do something wrong.
Be realistic about ther power you want.
For me is worth it just for the experience and all that I'm learning.
Read the first post entirely a lot of your questions are answer there.
07-09-2005
#45
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Originally Posted by kileryoyo
Super If you dont mind saying how much is your built engine putting out? and on how much psi?
I just got done installing a suplement to the return fuel system.
That will aloud me to keep a liter of fuel always available without drying up the line.
Also I installed some electronocs that I purchased from OPTO and installed by OPTO
So will see what happen at the next roll.
My goal is not to run so much and test how far I can take the engine.
My goal is to do realistic numbers safetly without blowing anything up.
09-08-2005
#47
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Originally Posted by drunkenmagnum
f' n awsome set up. i say go for 300! you are the man!
I got the car back with new paint job, enhance fuel system, big fan on front.
RSX injectors and a resurfaced block with the P &P head springs and valves, new berings (again)
A block guard as shown on the pics.
Just got 50 miles on it and is running good on the e-manage and the ESC2 installed by opto
Is running a bit rich and got a code for the barometric sensor.
But is running very good and I'll be dynoing it soon.
Will post pics.
09-08-2005
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Originally Posted by Supermex
At 300 I'll need Axels and reinforced trany LOL
I got the car back with new paint job, enhance fuel system, big fan on front.
RSX injectors and a resurfaced block with the P &P head springs and valves, new berings (again)
A block guard as shown on the pics.
Just got 50 miles on it and is running good on the e-manage and the ESC2 installed by opto
Is running a bit rich and got a code for the barometric sensor.
But is running very good and I'll be dynoing it soon.
Will post pics.
I got the car back with new paint job, enhance fuel system, big fan on front.
RSX injectors and a resurfaced block with the P &P head springs and valves, new berings (again)
A block guard as shown on the pics.
Just got 50 miles on it and is running good on the e-manage and the ESC2 installed by opto
Is running a bit rich and got a code for the barometric sensor.
But is running very good and I'll be dynoing it soon.
Will post pics.
09-08-2005
#49
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Originally Posted by dezod
That is caused by the injector correction factor, which causes a variation in the MAP sensor input versus output. This can be seen by using the data analysis function on the E-Manage. Try narrowing your injector correction factor to 275/310. That may help.
Save me some time.
I'll try this setting.
I have lot's to learn when it comes to the e-manage is overwhelming some times.
Thank you
09-09-2005
#50
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Originally Posted by Supermex
Very usefull info
Save me some time.
I'll try this setting.
I have lot's to learn when it comes to the e-manage is overwhelming some times.
Thank you
Save me some time.
I'll try this setting.
I have lot's to learn when it comes to the e-manage is overwhelming some times.
Thank you
11-27-2005
#51
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Rep Power: 271 nice post, nice engine, nice ride !!! Its nice to see a properly built engine that can and prob will take then 16psi (internals that is)..
Last edited by AlienX; 11-27-2005 at 02:04 PM.
11-27-2005
#52
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Originally Posted by AlienX
nice post, nice engine, nice ride !!! Its nice to see a properly built engine that can and prob will take then 16psi (internals that is)..I'm wondering that may be this thread need to be in the top as sticky subject.
Is not realy a turbo topic but it has to do wit engine internals part #'s etc.
If you guys think is a good idea
Can I get some help with it?
03-20-2008
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Rep Power: 200 Re: FAQ: For engine block internals (updated july 06)
wow, u just encourage me to turbo my D17, i was gonna go k20.
so is ur engine an A1 non vtec or A2 vtec???
so is ur engine an A1 non vtec or A2 vtec???
03-20-2008
#60
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Re: FAQ: For engine block internals (updated july 06)
Not that Hector can't speak for himself, but it's a non-VTEC. When you're you're throwing gobs of air at an engine, it's almost better to not have to fart with VTEC. Just have all the valves work all the time instead of some of them open and some them not. Gas mileage and emissions aren't really a concern at this point, so who cares about VTEC?
