Motor Took A Shit!!!
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Motor Took A ****!!!
hey guys well, i dont know if you people read my previous post but that rattling noise wasa broken bearing, well my mechanic told me that just from hearing it, BUT **** that is killing me is that he told me that if the actual block was damaged cuz of the busted bearing that it would be a real bitch because more money to spend on fixing it and all that crap. well i need you guys opinion? what are the chances that the block could be damaged??? i mean when my car is on ideal it sounds perfect, but when it goes up on rpms like past 3000 it makes that rattling noise. i mean wouldnt my car be sounding worst is the block was damaged or wouldnt it just not turn on or not run??? i got my JE pistons today and eagel rods, (high compression) i also got my greddy e-managment. those are my plans so far. i hope nothing more is needed. i mean tell me is there any way to know if my blokc was seriously damaged cuz they told me that a peace of the bearking could have broke loose but they are not sure until they actually open up the engine. well let me know what u guys think.
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From: Lexington, KY
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u got high compression pistons with a turbo, uh not a wise move but whatever, also if ur bearing was broke, id take the whole engine apart, take everything out and have it inspected to make sure there are no scratchs,u might as well sleeve the thing since its going to be out the car anyways
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From: Boise, Idaho
Rep Power: 327 im curious how he was able to diagnose a broken bearing???? Me thinks this would need to have the engine tore down to be able to determine whats bad for sure. I wouldnt get too woried until its torn down
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From: Woostah
Rep Power: 413 You would be able to tell easily if the bearings were going, it's a distinct sound...
I would STRONGLY consider having the block refreshed. Bad bearings, especially broken ones, can cause a ton of issues. When a bearing is broken, the crank can not rotate as smoothy. Things like crank walk, main cap issues, crank line distortion, or even broken cranks or rods. This is just the effects on the motor.... Not good.
The problem is whether you want to take a chance and throw a new rotating assembly in and have even more issues a year from now.... In the grand scheme of things, it's not all that much ($500 maybe?) for prevention of future problems.....
I would STRONGLY consider having the block refreshed. Bad bearings, especially broken ones, can cause a ton of issues. When a bearing is broken, the crank can not rotate as smoothy. Things like crank walk, main cap issues, crank line distortion, or even broken cranks or rods. This is just the effects on the motor.... Not good.
The problem is whether you want to take a chance and throw a new rotating assembly in and have even more issues a year from now.... In the grand scheme of things, it's not all that much ($500 maybe?) for prevention of future problems.....
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From: Dallas, PA
Rep Power: 607 well, the motor will have to be ripped out and a whole new bottom end will have to be put in. So, send back you high compression pistons and get low compression ones. And if you have the extra money, i would definitely sleeve the block 
Low compression for forced induction
High compression for All Motor
Low compression for forced induction
High compression for All Motor
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From: OH-IO
Rep Power: 511 Originally posted by civic01vtec
So, send back you high compression pistons and get low compression ones.
Low compression for forced induction
High compression for All Motor
So, send back you high compression pistons and get low compression ones.
Low compression for forced induction
High compression for All Motor
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From: Fairfax, VA (703)
Rep Power: 0 hey man.. this is what happened to me before i blew a rod thru my oil pan... take it from me, dont drive your car at all.... i had that same noise and on the way back from the honda dealership (btw, they dont know shi.t) they said it was my valves that needed adjustment, they adjusted it and that noise was still there... yea i know that same noise... anyway, on the way back from the dealership to my house boom, oil all over my windshield... stuck on the side of the road for hours... not cool at all. DONT DRIVE IT! do what they said, take it apart and change that crap out...
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From: Boise, Idaho
Rep Power: 327 Re: Motor Took A ****!!!
Originally posted by bac7213
hey guys well, i dont know if you people read my previous post but that rattling noise wasa broken bearing, well my mechanic told me that just from hearing it, BUT **** that is killing me is that he told me that if the actual block was damaged cuz of the busted bearing that it would be a real bitch because more money to spend on fixing it and all that crap.
hey guys well, i dont know if you people read my previous post but that rattling noise wasa broken bearing, well my mechanic told me that just from hearing it, BUT **** that is killing me is that he told me that if the actual block was damaged cuz of the busted bearing that it would be a real bitch because more money to spend on fixing it and all that crap.
From what he has describbed as the noise i would tend to think its a rod bearing worn out. And unless the rod were to break in the mean time i dont see how it could cause block damage.
Rod knocks are loudest at higher speeds (over 2500 RPM) Feathering the gas pedal may result in a distinctive back rattle between 2500 and 3500 RPMs.
Bad rod knocks may double knock if enough rod bearing material has been worn away allowing the piston to whack the cylinder head in addition to the big end of the connecting rod banging on the crankshaft rod journal. It will sound like a hard metallic knock (rod) with an alternating and somewhat muffled aluminum (piston) klock sound.
Wrist pin knock in modern engines is very rare today but is a favorite for the misdiagnosticians.
Bad rod knocks may double knock if enough rod bearing material has been worn away allowing the piston to whack the cylinder head in addition to the big end of the connecting rod banging on the crankshaft rod journal. It will sound like a hard metallic knock (rod) with an alternating and somewhat muffled aluminum (piston) klock sound.
Wrist pin knock in modern engines is very rare today but is a favorite for the misdiagnosticians.
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From: Dallas, PA
Rep Power: 607 oh yeah, i just thought of something........maybe the cause of your problems was from the DH Racing single groove crank pulley that you installed 3 months ago.
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From: Lexington, KY
Rep Power: 584 Originally posted by civic01vtec
oh yeah, i just thought of something........maybe the cause of your problems was from the DH Racing single groove crank pulley that you installed 3 months ago.
oh yeah, i just thought of something........maybe the cause of your problems was from the DH Racing single groove crank pulley that you installed 3 months ago.
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From: Queens, NY
Rep Power: 0 hey guys thats for ur responses, well what my mechanic told me (DRT racing) was that i spun a bearing, he said not to drive it hard to just keep it mad stupid slow. but he said their might be a chance of other damage but hes not sure until he takes it apart. he said the cause could have been not enough oil or the pump took a **** or something. i highly doubt its the pully from DH, i hope not lol. well any way im waiting for my mechanic to give me a date to go in, well i dont know but dont you guys think that if something worst was damaged in the engine that my car would run like ****?? i mean when my car is on idel it sounds perfect. no noise nothing. well answer back thanxs
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From: Dallas, PA
Rep Power: 607 Originally posted by bac7213
he said the cause could have been not enough oil or the pump took a **** or something. i highly doubt its the pully from DH, i hope not lol.
he said the cause could have been not enough oil or the pump took a **** or something. i highly doubt its the pully from DH, i hope not lol.
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From: Medina Ohio
Rep Power: 319 Where did you get your JE high compression pistons? Wanna sell 'em?
But yeah, I go with the pulley not being balanced. Take it to a machine shop and have them spin it and see if it is ballanced, and if it flies off the machine at 1500 RPM, then you have your problem solved. Or at least the cause of it.
But yeah, I go with the pulley not being balanced. Take it to a machine shop and have them spin it and see if it is ballanced, and if it flies off the machine at 1500 RPM, then you have your problem solved. Or at least the cause of it.
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From: NV
Rep Power: 812 Sorry man, DH messed you up good!
Although many DSM owners have removed the harmonic dampener crank pulley without incident, doing so almost certainly increases crank bearing wear, and COULD lead to early failure of the crank or crank bearings. Just how much the life of these parts is shortened is unknown.
I personally know five people that have ruined their main bearings after about 15K miles of non- OEM pulley use. Main bearings on Hondas don't normally fail; it's usually something else. Two main causes of bearing failure are lack of oil and excessive vibration. Since the bearings didn't spin, lack of oil can be ruled out, and since all five cars had underdrive pulleys, and all five failed right around 15K miles after the install of the pulley, through process of elimination, I've decided that the underdrive pulleys were at fault.
Make sure whatever pulley's you decide to use that they have some type of dampener.
Without a dampener the pulley may create excessive vibration in the crank causing damage to internals or oil pump failure.
This may happen even as a result of a lightweight pullet regardless of dampening.
I ran a lightweight OEM Civic Type R crank pulley on my Integra GSR block. (The GSR crank pulley is huge, and has slots for PS, AC, Alternator compared to the CTR Crank Pulley with just a slot for the alternator).
Even though the CTR Crank pulley is dampened, I still managed to shatter 2 oil pump gears!(which lead to spun bearings & blown turbo! ) I had no clue why. When I changed back to the stock GSR Crank Pulley, I never had the problem again.
Without a dampener the pulley may create excessive vibration in the crank causing damage to internals or oil pump failure.
This may happen even as a result of a lightweight pullet regardless of dampening.
I ran a lightweight OEM Civic Type R crank pulley on my Integra GSR block. (The GSR crank pulley is huge, and has slots for PS, AC, Alternator compared to the CTR Crank Pulley with just a slot for the alternator).
Even though the CTR Crank pulley is dampened, I still managed to shatter 2 oil pump gears!(which lead to spun bearings & blown turbo! ) I had no clue why. When I changed back to the stock GSR Crank Pulley, I never had the problem again.
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From: Pensacola, Florida
Rep Power: 302 Originally posted by gearbox
DH messed you up good!
DH messed you up good!
Dude, from the thing post topic, i thought you might have had carbon deposit building up on your tailpipe or something..
sorry.. just thought i'd let you know 
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From: Woostah
Rep Power: 413 The vibration from a warped pulley WOULD cause it, although I wouldn't jump to conclusions...
Irregardless, good luck with it....
Irregardless, good luck with it....
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Rep Power: 344 maybe you should have beefed up your lower end a tad before you slapped the turbo on....just a thought.
Good luck getting it fixed, hope everything turns out ok.
Good luck getting it fixed, hope everything turns out ok.
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From: Queens, NY
Rep Power: 0 thanxs, well i dont know if its the pully i mean everything has been already i had the pully even before the turbo so i wouldnt start to blame it on that but i will have that checked out, also i use to have an oil leak when i installed the turbo so that may be a cause, since a main cause of a spun bearing is not enough oil, so there could be many things, also heat, but i dont know we will see, as of now im juts worried shitless cuz i mean i have the money to get pistons n rods and all that and installed, im getting a hook up, 1000 bucks for installation of rods pistons n bearing and whatever else. but im scared that once they open the block they tell me i have to get a new one cuz there was more damage, i dont want that. PREY for me lol that hopfully wont happen. we will see.
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From: Dallas, PA
Rep Power: 607 here's what you do Byron.......take your car to your mechanic, show him the DH pulley and he will do this....... 
I am telling you, put back on your OEM crank pulley.
I am telling you, put back on your OEM crank pulley.
Originally posted by bac7213
... well what my mechanic told me (DRT racing) was that i spun a bearing ...
... well what my mechanic told me (DRT racing) was that i spun a bearing ...
Also, I wouldn't stress over the pulley just yet, chances are that the boost just overworked the bottom end or you had knock and it pounded the bearing to death.
The torsional vibration concern with the lightweight crankpulley is a very long term issue and would not bomb your motor out in 3 months, But a turbo just might. Either way, it's easy to determine once you crack open the motor.
btw, whats the most boost you have run?
The torsional vibration concern with the lightweight crankpulley is a very long term issue and would not bomb your motor out in 3 months, But a turbo just might. Either way, it's easy to determine once you crack open the motor.
btw, whats the most boost you have run?
Last edited by Mirage; Apr 29, 2004 at 07:49 PM.
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From: Medina Ohio
Rep Power: 319 ^^^ very true. I think everyone here is blaiming a pulley when that is minor thing compared to a turbo. Think of all the places the car can now lose oil and all the fittings and if one of those gets plugged or the turbo frags becuase of a bad wheel, you get the idea, there's a lot of places to go bad.
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From: Dallas, PA
Rep Power: 607 well, he was only boosting around 6 lbs daily, when others are running 10 or more.
I am willing to bet the pulley caused his oil pump to take a ****.
I am willing to bet the pulley caused his oil pump to take a ****.
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From: Medina Ohio
Rep Power: 319 True 6 lbs isn't much, but I'm talking about the set up and installation of the system it's self (not trying to rip on him or anyone else) but everyone makes mistakes. If there was some crap in something (like shaving in the turbo or something) it could have cause a oil line to block up, just thinking though. I'm not saying it wasn't the pulley either, I sure can't tell just from this thread, but his mech hopefully will.
Well, good luck with it man.
Well, good luck with it man.
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From: Medina Ohio
Rep Power: 319 Oh yeah, you won't see me running the DH pulley anytime soon, not because I think it bad, but becasue I think all these pulley's are bad for long term, I want my car to go for at least 150K (that's why I bought a Honda), its got 12K now, so I don't want to put anything like that on my car.
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From: Lexington, KY
Rep Power: 584 my opinion=PULLEY, nothing more nothing less!
no one else here has psun bearings or anything of the likes with boost, for crying out loud, i hit 1 bar, so why arent my bearings spinning.....................................
no one else here has psun bearings or anything of the likes with boost, for crying out loud, i hit 1 bar, so why arent my bearings spinning.....................................
