DIY: How to Drag Race
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Rep Power: 389 DIY: How to Drag Race
While searching around the internet I found this comprehensive guide to drag racing. I thought I would share it with everyone.
First of all, what is "drag racing"? In the simplest terms, drag racing is a sport where two vehicles compete side-by-side in an acceleration contest. Both drivers race in a straight line from a standing start to a finish line 1/8 mile away. The first to cross the finish line wins the race. Competition is part driver and part machine.
Drag races are conducted on a dragstrip according to a set of safety and performance based rules. The dragstrip is designed and constructed to allow racing to be done under the safest possible environment for both the drivers as well as spectators. The track surface, guardwalls, fences, staging lanes and return road are arranged according to strict standards. Race procedures must conform to long established industry standards. Insurance carrier and sanctioning body guidelines must also be closely followed to ensure a safe, fair and fun racing experience for all that attend or participate.
Drag racing is a sport
The Racer
No special skills are needed. In the sport of drag racing, any licensed driver can participate. Kids as young as 8 years old compete in Junior Drag League events and some as old as 99 race at local tracks nation wide in weekly programs. Driving skills improve with each race. The full performance capabilities of a vehicle are tested while a driver learns a vehicle's characteristics.
The Track
The dragstrip is a 60 feet wide strip of specially prepared asphalt. Concrete safety guardwalls line both sides of the racing surface from the starting area to far beyond the finish line. The starting area has a concrete surface 150 feet long to withstand the harsh wear from spinning tires.
The Tree
A drag race is started using a device called a "Christmas Tree" that stands 42 feet ahead of the start line. As the vehicles approach the starting line the drivers are signaled to stage their vehicles and start the race by watching the colored bulbs light up in sequence.
Each side of the "tree" has two small yellow bulbs at the top that signals a driver when the vehicle is on the start line. The first bulb lights when the vehicle is almost on the line, "pre-staged", followed by the next bulb lighting as the vehicle moves forward to "staged" position on the line.
The "tree" has three larger amber colored bulbs on each side followed by a green bulb and then a red bulb. Once both vehicles are staged, the "tree" is activated and the first amber colored bulbs on both sides of the tree light up. Then ½ second later the next amber bulb lights up while the first amber bulb goes out. Another ½ second later the last amber bulb lights up. And one-half second later the green bulb lights up signaling the drivers to start the race. If either vehicle leaves the start line before the green bulb lights up, the red bulb will light up instead. This indicates a foul start for that vehicle thereby giving the other driver an automatic win.
While both vehicles may leave together on the green light, a driver's reaction time from when the green comes on will become a factor in the race. If one vehicle remains on the starting line after the green comes on, the other vehicle will gain an advantage making it possible for the slower vehicle to win the race.
More About Reaction Times
Keep in mind that the tree counts down at .500 second (five tenths) intervals. The reaction time announced is the time that the vehicle took to move off of the starting line compared to when the last amber bulb lit up.
Example: A reaction time of .543 means the vehicle left the line exactly .043 seconds after the green came on (.500 after the last amber plus .043 = .543). And a reaction time of .410 means the vehicle left .080 seconds before the green bulb lit which activated the red light instead…a foul start. A perfect reaction time is .500 seconds. A reaction time over .6 seconds is considered marginal and over .7 is slow.
The Race
With each racer leaving the start line together, the finish line decides the winner. A series of infrared beams across each lane measure incremental times during the race as well as top speed.
The total time of the race for each lane is recorded and announced as the elapsed time, or E.T., followed by the top speed for each vehicle. The clock starts when the vehicle leaves the start line, not when the green comes on. The reaction time is recorded separately to show how long a vehicle waited to leave while the E.T. shows how long the race was. Adding these numbers together as a "package" will show the mathematical winner every time.
The E.T. is displayed on finish line scoreboards in seconds, tenths and hundredths. The top speed of the vehicle displayed in full numbers followed by tenths and hundredths. Example: E.T. = 9.43 (seconds) at 88.31 (miles per hour).
The Finish Line
After crossing the finish line, the driver lets off the accelerator and slowly applies the brakes in the coast down area while staying in his own lane. Drivers should avoid skidding. The vehicle in the right lane makes a right turn exit first followed by the left lane. This allows a safe exit for both vehicles. No driver should ever turn around on the track since there may be another pair of vehicles ready to start the next race.
The Return Road
After the vehicles exit the track, they return to their pit area using the return road. Racers can stop along the return road at a station called "Time Slips" where a track official will hand the driver a printed slip that shows the results for both vehicles. The speed on the return road is limited to 6 m.p.h.
The basis of competition is in the performance numbers. Drivers perform as consistently as possible while tuning their machines for optimum performance.
The Burn-Out
The area directly behind the starting line is called the "water box" and is designed for heating the tires to maximize traction. A track official will signal you to stop when the drive tires are in the water box. On his signal you may "powerbrake" the vehicle to spin the tires for up to 5 seconds. Properly done, the tires will heat up from spinning and start smoking as you allow the vehicle to move forward out of the water box.
A burn-out is not required and it's not even necessary for most tires. Vehicles that use racing slicks benefit the most from a good smoky burnout because the hot tires will provide maximum traction on the track. You should drive around the water box if you decide to skip the burn-out.
Only one burn-out is permitted and it cannot be done across the starting line.
The RACE
Immediately after the burnout you may stage your vehicle on the starting line. Once both vehicles are staged, the Christmas tree will be activated to signal the start of the race. A good race will result if you're able to prevent the tires from spinning, drive straight and let the engine rev to maximum r.p.m.'s before shifting.
It's common for drivers in quicker cars to "feather" the accelerator to keep the tires from spinning. Excessive spinning of the tires will result in lost traction, slower speeds and can even cause you to lose control of the vehicle with disastrous results. If you feel you're spinning or losing control you should let off the accelerator and try racing again later.
How'd you do?
After your run, pick up your "time-slip" and return to your pit area. Relax and compare your times with others, make any needed adjustments and wait for the next call to the lanes. It is sometimes allowed for you to "hot lap" back to the staging lanes for more runs but be sure that it's allowed before returning to the lanes. If you're group has not been called to the lanes you will be turned back.
Your time slip will have your vehicle number, the class you're in (if applicable) and the incremental times of your run as well as other racers'. The first number is your dial-in printed as "R/T", followed by your 60' time, 330' time and finally you're 660' time printed as "E.T.", and your our top speed. Another number prints below as "MOV" which shows the mathematical margin-of-victory for your race.
Street racing is NOT Drag racing
First of all, what is "drag racing"? In the simplest terms, drag racing is a sport where two vehicles compete side-by-side in an acceleration contest. Both drivers race in a straight line from a standing start to a finish line 1/8 mile away. The first to cross the finish line wins the race. Competition is part driver and part machine.
Drag races are conducted on a dragstrip according to a set of safety and performance based rules. The dragstrip is designed and constructed to allow racing to be done under the safest possible environment for both the drivers as well as spectators. The track surface, guardwalls, fences, staging lanes and return road are arranged according to strict standards. Race procedures must conform to long established industry standards. Insurance carrier and sanctioning body guidelines must also be closely followed to ensure a safe, fair and fun racing experience for all that attend or participate.
Drag racing is a sport
The Racer
No special skills are needed. In the sport of drag racing, any licensed driver can participate. Kids as young as 8 years old compete in Junior Drag League events and some as old as 99 race at local tracks nation wide in weekly programs. Driving skills improve with each race. The full performance capabilities of a vehicle are tested while a driver learns a vehicle's characteristics.
The Track
The dragstrip is a 60 feet wide strip of specially prepared asphalt. Concrete safety guardwalls line both sides of the racing surface from the starting area to far beyond the finish line. The starting area has a concrete surface 150 feet long to withstand the harsh wear from spinning tires.
The Tree
A drag race is started using a device called a "Christmas Tree" that stands 42 feet ahead of the start line. As the vehicles approach the starting line the drivers are signaled to stage their vehicles and start the race by watching the colored bulbs light up in sequence.
Each side of the "tree" has two small yellow bulbs at the top that signals a driver when the vehicle is on the start line. The first bulb lights when the vehicle is almost on the line, "pre-staged", followed by the next bulb lighting as the vehicle moves forward to "staged" position on the line.
The "tree" has three larger amber colored bulbs on each side followed by a green bulb and then a red bulb. Once both vehicles are staged, the "tree" is activated and the first amber colored bulbs on both sides of the tree light up. Then ½ second later the next amber bulb lights up while the first amber bulb goes out. Another ½ second later the last amber bulb lights up. And one-half second later the green bulb lights up signaling the drivers to start the race. If either vehicle leaves the start line before the green bulb lights up, the red bulb will light up instead. This indicates a foul start for that vehicle thereby giving the other driver an automatic win.
While both vehicles may leave together on the green light, a driver's reaction time from when the green comes on will become a factor in the race. If one vehicle remains on the starting line after the green comes on, the other vehicle will gain an advantage making it possible for the slower vehicle to win the race.
More About Reaction Times
Keep in mind that the tree counts down at .500 second (five tenths) intervals. The reaction time announced is the time that the vehicle took to move off of the starting line compared to when the last amber bulb lit up.
Example: A reaction time of .543 means the vehicle left the line exactly .043 seconds after the green came on (.500 after the last amber plus .043 = .543). And a reaction time of .410 means the vehicle left .080 seconds before the green bulb lit which activated the red light instead…a foul start. A perfect reaction time is .500 seconds. A reaction time over .6 seconds is considered marginal and over .7 is slow.
The Race
With each racer leaving the start line together, the finish line decides the winner. A series of infrared beams across each lane measure incremental times during the race as well as top speed.
The total time of the race for each lane is recorded and announced as the elapsed time, or E.T., followed by the top speed for each vehicle. The clock starts when the vehicle leaves the start line, not when the green comes on. The reaction time is recorded separately to show how long a vehicle waited to leave while the E.T. shows how long the race was. Adding these numbers together as a "package" will show the mathematical winner every time.
The E.T. is displayed on finish line scoreboards in seconds, tenths and hundredths. The top speed of the vehicle displayed in full numbers followed by tenths and hundredths. Example: E.T. = 9.43 (seconds) at 88.31 (miles per hour).
The Finish Line
After crossing the finish line, the driver lets off the accelerator and slowly applies the brakes in the coast down area while staying in his own lane. Drivers should avoid skidding. The vehicle in the right lane makes a right turn exit first followed by the left lane. This allows a safe exit for both vehicles. No driver should ever turn around on the track since there may be another pair of vehicles ready to start the next race.
The Return Road
After the vehicles exit the track, they return to their pit area using the return road. Racers can stop along the return road at a station called "Time Slips" where a track official will hand the driver a printed slip that shows the results for both vehicles. The speed on the return road is limited to 6 m.p.h.
The basis of competition is in the performance numbers. Drivers perform as consistently as possible while tuning their machines for optimum performance.
The Burn-Out
The area directly behind the starting line is called the "water box" and is designed for heating the tires to maximize traction. A track official will signal you to stop when the drive tires are in the water box. On his signal you may "powerbrake" the vehicle to spin the tires for up to 5 seconds. Properly done, the tires will heat up from spinning and start smoking as you allow the vehicle to move forward out of the water box.
A burn-out is not required and it's not even necessary for most tires. Vehicles that use racing slicks benefit the most from a good smoky burnout because the hot tires will provide maximum traction on the track. You should drive around the water box if you decide to skip the burn-out.
Only one burn-out is permitted and it cannot be done across the starting line.
The RACE
Immediately after the burnout you may stage your vehicle on the starting line. Once both vehicles are staged, the Christmas tree will be activated to signal the start of the race. A good race will result if you're able to prevent the tires from spinning, drive straight and let the engine rev to maximum r.p.m.'s before shifting.
It's common for drivers in quicker cars to "feather" the accelerator to keep the tires from spinning. Excessive spinning of the tires will result in lost traction, slower speeds and can even cause you to lose control of the vehicle with disastrous results. If you feel you're spinning or losing control you should let off the accelerator and try racing again later.
How'd you do?
After your run, pick up your "time-slip" and return to your pit area. Relax and compare your times with others, make any needed adjustments and wait for the next call to the lanes. It is sometimes allowed for you to "hot lap" back to the staging lanes for more runs but be sure that it's allowed before returning to the lanes. If you're group has not been called to the lanes you will be turned back.
Your time slip will have your vehicle number, the class you're in (if applicable) and the incremental times of your run as well as other racers'. The first number is your dial-in printed as "R/T", followed by your 60' time, 330' time and finally you're 660' time printed as "E.T.", and your our top speed. Another number prints below as "MOV" which shows the mathematical margin-of-victory for your race.
Street racing is NOT Drag racing
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Rep Power: 0 funny, at nights when i can see im gonna be the first car at a light, ill stop 20 feet behind the line and do a burnout up to the line. but still track drag != street drag.
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Rep Power: 0 Maybe I'm reading it wrong, but you may want to check the math:
"And a reaction time of .410 means the vehicle left .080 seconds before the green bulb lit which activated the red light instead…a foul start."
Anyways, congrats on becoming a mod (took them long enough =D) and thanks for the post.
"And a reaction time of .410 means the vehicle left .080 seconds before the green bulb lit which activated the red light instead…a foul start."
Anyways, congrats on becoming a mod (took them long enough =D) and thanks for the post.
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Rep Power: 291 1/8th of a mile? Every track I have raced has always been 1/4 mile
they have the 1/8th of the mile for the little kiddies set up to race their lawnmower
powered dragsters.. hmmmm??
they have the 1/8th of the mile for the little kiddies set up to race their lawnmower
powered dragsters.. hmmmm??
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Rep Power: 389 Originally posted by kjgracing
1/8th of a mile? Every track I have raced has always been 1/4 mile
they have the 1/8th of the mile for the little kiddies set up to race their lawnmower
powered dragsters.. hmmmm??
1/8th of a mile? Every track I have raced has always been 1/4 mile
they have the 1/8th of the mile for the little kiddies set up to race their lawnmower
powered dragsters.. hmmmm??
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Rep Power: 487 how do you "powerbrake" with a manual? do you put your hand brake on and gun it or what? isnt that bad for your clutch?
#14
Umm...when I burn out in my Integra, no powerbraking is needed really, just make sure you DONT ride the clutch while burning out, most people make that mistake and well, ask themselves how come their clutch went out on them about 1 week later or less...but i guess depends how long u plan to burn out, if u plan to only burn out in Water box of 1/4 track or watever normally dont worry bout ur car moving to much in a burnout with a manual tranny, I dont at least I just let my car kinda jus drift left/right etc
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Rep Power: 0 Originally posted by EviLMyStS
From a stop for a stick, when is it good to dump or feather the clutch at what rpm ?
From a stop for a stick, when is it good to dump or feather the clutch at what rpm ?
2. It depends on your mods. A stock engine wouldn't need to launch as high due to the fact bolt ons eat up low-end power (which requires a higher RPM launch). Find out for yourself.
RPMs too high could result in:
Not using enough of the powerband to make a decent launch with too much gas after the gears catch.
Or spinning your tires letting off the clutch too quick which = loss of traction. Start between 3k - 4k RPMs.
3. Do NOT "chirp" second gear if you can... you're guaranteed to shave .1 second off for that.
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Rep Power: 0 Originally posted by RyzRocket02
Maybe I'm reading it wrong, but you may want to check the math:
"And a reaction time of .410 means the vehicle left .080 seconds before the green bulb lit which activated the red light instead…a foul start."
Maybe I'm reading it wrong, but you may want to check the math:
"And a reaction time of .410 means the vehicle left .080 seconds before the green bulb lit which activated the red light instead…a foul start."
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Rep Power: 0 I ran a 17.31 on my first time down the strip. Slow as hell, I know but hey, it's got 4 doors and 4 cylinders. That was with AEM CAI only. With a few more passes, headers and a 50 shot though, I'll let you know...
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Rep Power: 487 i just went to the track today and yesterday for my first time. is it recommended to launch at a certain RPM, or is it better to start at idle? i was usually starting at 3k RPM, but my tires would spin alot and i would not start up good. but when i tried idle, my time was terrible. my best time was 17.383 @ 75.86 mph. my car is an LX coupe MT and completely stock except for an OBX axle back. is this a good time?
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Rep Power: 0 Originally posted by CIVIC2NV
Are their any times for the quarter mile?
Are their any times for the quarter mile?
there was a guy there that ran his stock 2002 lx coupe (stock) at 17.1
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Rep Power: 0 Originally posted by abmerop18
what would be some good 205-40-17 tires for under $400 for drag racing?
what would be some good 205-40-17 tires for under $400 for drag racing?
Racing on 17's is pointless.
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Rep Power: 291 you will slow down at least .5 second with 17's.
you will also have a lot of wheel hop from the start line and you
risk breaking that front motor mount quicker.
"15 Rota Slipstreams wrapped in 205/50/15 Falken Azenis Sport or
205/50/15 Kumho Ecsta V700
you will also have a lot of wheel hop from the start line and you
risk breaking that front motor mount quicker.
"15 Rota Slipstreams wrapped in 205/50/15 Falken Azenis Sport or
205/50/15 Kumho Ecsta V700
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Rep Power: 487 will be time be different if i run with stock tires in the front and my 17s in the rear compared to stock tires all around? will it hurt my time is i have little tread on my stock tires?
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Rep Power: 0 Whenever you line up to strat a drag race take off at the last amber light on the Christmas tree. This will ensure you the best reaction time, and a better overall time at the end of the race
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Rep Power: 0 Originally posted by PeteCivic2k1
Whenever you line up to strat a drag race take off at the last amber light on the Christmas tree. This will ensure you the best reaction time, and a better overall time at the end of the race
Whenever you line up to strat a drag race take off at the last amber light on the Christmas tree. This will ensure you the best reaction time, and a better overall time at the end of the race
the only time your R/T matters is in bracket racing or when you're in a heads up race against someone and you wanna win. you could have a 5 minute R/T and still get a good ET.
#30
Powerbraking from i have always done is having half my right foot on the accelerator and half on the break then let out the clutch and go, but granted im new to the civic fwd lower torque world soo i guess im not really quite sure, but car is still being shipped to me. Anyways, always ride safe.
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