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Here is a list of steps that I found to help newbies learn how to burn out.

* on an automatic equipped vehicle, hold down on the brake with one foot (hard enough to keep the vehicle from moving) and apply the throttle to start the tires spinning

* in a manual transmission equipped car, you will need to have one foot operate both the gas and the brake (sort of heal and toe in reverse) and use the other foot to operate the clutch

* make sure you don't let the car move forward by pressing hard enough on the brake to keep the car in place, this will often be much more brake pressure then you think is needed

* when you do go to apply the throttle, hit the throttle hard to break loose the tires and then "back peddle" or reduce the amount of throttle you are applying once the tires have begun to spin

* if possible, have someone outside the vehicle check to make sure both tires are spinning

* when you are done with the burn out let the car roll forward with the tires still spinning (if you stop in the water you will leave water on the tires that could again cause you to loose traction at the line)

* with the BFG drag radial we recommend tire pressures of between 14 and 18 pounds (at the track only - put them back to the manufacturer's recommended inflation pressure when you are done - this is not the pressure on the side of the tire but the tire pressure found in your owner's manual and on the side of the driver door)

* with the BFG Drag Radial, start with your tire pressures at 18 to 20 pounds and lower them until your 60 foot times no longer improve - once you have obtained optimal traction lowering the tire pressure only increases rolling resistance (do not go below 14 psi of air pressure on the BFG Drag Radials)

* for best results, it may also help to inflate the non driven wheel tires to their maximum inflation pressure (found on the side of the tire) but remember to return them to the factory settings when you are done racing

* if your car is equipped with traction control, you will need to turn it off to perform the burn out and it should be left off during the drag racing as well

 
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Nice info, I dont really like burning out, waste of tires unless your runnin slicks other than that most street tires arent necessary

 
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i dunno if i'm right but doesn't holding down your brake while gassing mess up your pads and rotors?

 
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It wouldn't "mess them up" per say. Just cause premature wear. You would only do this when warming up your tires at a drag event. Well..I guess you "could" do it at stoplights...it's your car.

 
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NO


ok let me elaborate on why you dont do this. civics are front wheel drive cars. you want to hold the brake and gas in a rear wheel drive car.

next time fly, dont copy and paste from some website...

oh yea and the front wheel drive thing also applies to automatic transmissions also.

 
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Damn, and he's a newbie, too.

 
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Oh $hit, i was searching for a diy to help the people out and totally forgot to look for the part about FWD cars like ours.

Here is how to burnout in a FWD car........

FWD burnouts are simply a matter of reefing on the handbrake as hard as you can, getting every available kW of power to the front wheels and dropping the clutch/flooring the accellerator. The main difference between FWD and RWD burnouts is that non-use of the brake pedal. The handbrake should be sufficient to hold the car.

 
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am i?

 
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Ok I'm confused for a FWD burnout in an automatic I just put the e-brake on and floor it to burn them ??? Going to the track Friday so I need to know.. Thanks

 
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you wont make enough power to burn out in an auto, unless you neutral drop. just drive around the waterbox when youre close to the line. DONT NEUTRAL DROP

 
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Ive done a nice burnout in water with a automatic. Just pull up the ebrake and break torque and it should burn out.

 
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I know how to burn out in all the cars I've owned (both auto and 5speed). Not criticizing the poster or anything, but to the people who are trying to learn: I think it is stupid to read something online to learn how to burn out. You read these "instructions" and think you can automatically go and perform all these maneuvers, such as burning out. LOL
If you have driven a certain car long enough, you would just KNOW how to burn out. I know it sounds weird, but you just have to practice/learn by doing not reading. I remember "accidentally" peeling out on in my mazda so many times. I soon caught on.

 
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Well, it ain't exactly rocket science.

 
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I would have to disagree with turning off TCS during drag racing, Yes turn it off for your initial burnout / tire scalding, but I would much rather keep the TCS on for the actual race. This will keep the car from spinning tires thru an entire gear and keep the car stuck to the ground. Perhaps if you happen to have a car that has an on/off switch on your traction control and that control is fairly "crappy" and takes forever to turn back off once it turns on it would be smarter to leave it off and just ease back if you lose traction during the car, but most all performance cars ive seen have all made better times in teh straight line 1/4 mile with their traction control on. C5 Corvettes seem to have the BEST traction control, especially since they have multiple tcs modes to choose from including a "competition" mode set specifically for straight line traction. Using my car for an example to why i disagree, with the car TCS in "off" mode when the tires lose grip it takes me time to realize the tires have slipped and takes me time to react to it and back off to get them stuck to teh ground again. with the TCS in the "on" mode, by the time i would have realized my tires lost grip and would proceed to back off and let them catch again, the TCS system has already compensated and has already turned itself back off. In my particular case, it would hurt my time more with the traction off manually controlling the traction loss. This may not be the case for all cars like i said before but seems like it would be best for vehicles with significant torque to the wheels.

 
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YES, they just say that cuse your title says "member"

 
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Ok about the traction control thing; correct me if i'm wrong but civics don't have traction control so who cares. As far as for other cars it depends on the car. for example my dad has a 40th an. vette and the traction control sucks. it dosen't compensate torque or any thing it just pushs the gas peddle back up. and w/ very sticky tires you should catch.
And xtreme2k2- you don't realy need to do a burnout on street tires.

 
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when you are on the strip, tcs should never be used. if you need tcs then you dont know your car well enough.

 
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anyone wanna clear up on the FWD civic burnout thing, so just pull the handbrake, shift to D and yank on the acceleration?

 
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i'm prolly an idiot for doing this to an almost brand new car, but i did that ebrake thing while in d3, and i got a small burnout.

but its the last time i do that with my car

 
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i havent tried this in any civics but in a lot of other automatics...


1. crank that handbrake up as high as you can
make sure you still have your thumb onthe release button so you can quickly let off of the e-brake. this is to ensure you do not "bald-spot" your tires when the front wheels start pulling your vehicle.

2. with your left foot, press the brake pedal fairly hard; you dont have to stand on it, but you want to put enough pressure so the car will not move.

3. begin to press the gas pedal with your right foot.
you will notice the car will begin to lerch forward...

4. floor the gas, and release the brake simutaniously, as if you were dropping a clutch...
you should start spinning and will stay in the same spot until your tires get warmer and start to gain traction.

5. the vehicle will begin to slide forward, this is where you want to release that e-brake.

thats pretty much it. once you get your timing down, you can get a pretty good "jump" off of a line.

 
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ahhh gotta love manual transmission for just having to dump the clutch! (with e-brake on of course)

 
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yeah i got a manual in my ex... the other day i was pulling out of an sno-cone booth where a fat *** retarded *** with a beer bell who was driving a vette, was talking **** about my "lancer"... what a ****ing retard. anyway, i stopped in the road and just looked at him...

tacked it up to about 3500 - 4000 and dropped the clutch...

i burned em through 1st, through second... and half way threw third before i bogged down and had to shift back to 2nd to take off...

no ebrake or anything... just some clutch-popping, tire-smoking, mark-leaving fun....

 
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good **** perry, lol although i'd give him the bird first

 
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not to be caulky or anything even tho i dont drive a civic all i have to do is floor it on my truck and it will start burning out no break torque or anything. Just a tought.

 
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yea fly u need to edit that first post..

 
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What's a bald-spot? My friend did a burn-out today in his Audi A4. All he did was hold the handbrake, and floor the gas pedal. His tires were smoking for about 2 minutes and all of this rubber got onto my vic (it was right next to his a4...)!!!!!! So pissed off, but w/e. I'm going to try that sometime in my ex auto sedan

 
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a flat spot on your tire that has no tread...

happens when the same place on the tire slides across the ground and gets rubbed off... causes more rapid tire wear, and an a rougher ride... :\

 
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like if you have the e-brake on, and your front tires are dragging your car. The part of your rear tires which are being dragged along the pavement will be worn, making a flat spot. Anyway, I almost never use my e-brake doing burnouts on the street. Just get it up to about 4k and drop the clutch. Like Perry, that burns me through 1st, 2nd, but I usually start thinking "this probably isnt good for my tires" around 3rd gear, so I drop it down to get some traction.

 
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lol i was reading this tread, and noticed the burning out thing is for FWD... For Autos, its good to do it at the end of driveways, pull your e-brake while your back tires are sitting aganist the little bumps on the driveway, and floor it :-D no brake in envoleded, you can brake torque it to get the tires to spin more, but its not req. seeing as you basically put a block under your rear tires to keep the car from moving.. as for manuals, hahah easy, most peeps red line, then drop the clutch and have the e-brake on, the tires usally spin up really quick and drag the car so the driveway thing is good to do if you want to smoke the tires for a bit..

 
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the only problem with that is the whole right-wheel-drive thing. The car turns to the right... a lot... when burning out. Fun though