2003 Civic Si
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2003 Civic Si
!!!UPDATED!!!
I will get pictures later. It's in the shop right now.
Car is 160k on body.
Engine rebuild was about 1k miles ago
Legend:
Installed
On order/ awaiting installation
planned
Engine:
A2 head
A2 pistons
DC sports header
Tanabe Cat-Back
K-tuned V/C breather and oil drain plug (probably gives me 300whp alone /s)
Hondata Kpro v.4
AUS 320cc injectors
Short-Ram intake (looking for one that matches my color theme)
oil pump (A2 or a 4 piston)
Tune:
pending I am new to k-series engines so I am trying to figure out a safe limit for the pump.
I am currently planning to do 7500 rpm limit (So I will never hit close to my 200whp goal until I get a better oil pump // may be able to get 165-175 or so with that limit if I am lucky)
Chassis:
Tein Street Basis coilovers
Tanabe Strut bar (front)
Wheels and tires (sticking with 15" or 16" at max)
Brakes (looking for some economy slotted rotors to put on with ceramic pads, not expecting any track gains just missed having the look from my previous car)
paint correction and to pop the two dents the car has. (I want to just redo the wonderful blue.... but I am a child and like Destroyer Grey)
Interior:
Not sure what I want to do here but I set a budget of 500$ and I know that old factory radio has to go.
I remember being young and wanting to get an idea for the cost of a build and disliked that many people didn't give consideration for that on their forum post. Therefore, I added a cost breakdown below. Yes, I am aware that there are cheaper ways to get many of these things done. I had a plan in mind and chose the "damn the expense" approach so you could easily save 500$+ by being patient and not also needing the car you are building as a daily.
Cost:
Car w/ A3/A2 hybrid delivered (3400$)
Teins (690)
ktuned (36)
DC header (320)
tanabe exhaust (527)
tanabe strut bar (139)
Injectors (159)
Hondata (new ECU and all, couldn't afford the down time) (1229)
tires (nothing special) (290)
Cost-so-far: 6790$ and it is almost where I want it. I expect to recoup about 500-800$ selling the old **** that I have left over.
After getting wheels, brakes, oil pump, and the interior how I want it, I will be close to 8/9k.
Could you buy a faster car for 8/9k? Oh hell yeah, my Z cost far less and was certainly faster... But I wouldn't be having this much fun making this thing mine (plus, hauling groceries in a Z is terrible).
I will get pictures later. It's in the shop right now.
Car is 160k on body.
Engine rebuild was about 1k miles ago
Legend:
Installed
On order/ awaiting installation
planned
Engine:
A2 head
A2 pistons
DC sports header
Tanabe Cat-Back
K-tuned V/C breather and oil drain plug (probably gives me 300whp alone /s)
Hondata Kpro v.4
AUS 320cc injectors
Short-Ram intake (looking for one that matches my color theme)
oil pump (A2 or a 4 piston)
Tune:
pending I am new to k-series engines so I am trying to figure out a safe limit for the pump.
I am currently planning to do 7500 rpm limit (So I will never hit close to my 200whp goal until I get a better oil pump // may be able to get 165-175 or so with that limit if I am lucky)
Chassis:
Tein Street Basis coilovers
Tanabe Strut bar (front)
Wheels and tires (sticking with 15" or 16" at max)
Brakes (looking for some economy slotted rotors to put on with ceramic pads, not expecting any track gains just missed having the look from my previous car)
paint correction and to pop the two dents the car has. (I want to just redo the wonderful blue.... but I am a child and like Destroyer Grey)
Interior:
Not sure what I want to do here but I set a budget of 500$ and I know that old factory radio has to go.
I remember being young and wanting to get an idea for the cost of a build and disliked that many people didn't give consideration for that on their forum post. Therefore, I added a cost breakdown below. Yes, I am aware that there are cheaper ways to get many of these things done. I had a plan in mind and chose the "damn the expense" approach so you could easily save 500$+ by being patient and not also needing the car you are building as a daily.
Cost:
Car w/ A3/A2 hybrid delivered (3400$)
Teins (690)
ktuned (36)
DC header (320)
tanabe exhaust (527)
tanabe strut bar (139)
Injectors (159)
Hondata (new ECU and all, couldn't afford the down time) (1229)
tires (nothing special) (290)
Cost-so-far: 6790$ and it is almost where I want it. I expect to recoup about 500-800$ selling the old **** that I have left over.
After getting wheels, brakes, oil pump, and the interior how I want it, I will be close to 8/9k.
Could you buy a faster car for 8/9k? Oh hell yeah, my Z cost far less and was certainly faster... But I wouldn't be having this much fun making this thing mine (plus, hauling groceries in a Z is terrible).
Last edited by Laser; May 11, 2020 at 10:19 AM. Reason: Cleaned up the post
Thread Starter
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Sorry, force of habit. (Impreza owner)
Something failed and the valves and pistons went on a honeymoon together.
However it occurred, I ended up with a PRB stamped head and pistons (allegedly) on a A3.
[EDIT] The ad said timing set not belt, that is my bad
Something failed and the valves and pistons went on a honeymoon together.
However it occurred, I ended up with a PRB stamped head and pistons (allegedly) on a A3.
[EDIT] The ad said timing set not belt, that is my bad
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He did not, but I have a hondata ECU (Kpro V4) coming in the mail. It will be my first time tuning a car so I am pretty excited. When I get a good base I will have a local tuner check my work on a dyno.
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I made good enough money selling my last car to splurge on this one.
Plus I always wanted to learn how to tune a car so why not practice surgery on yourself? lol.
"InB4, is 20psi compression normal on all four cylinders"
Plus I always wanted to learn how to tune a car so why not practice surgery on yourself? lol.
"InB4, is 20psi compression normal on all four cylinders"
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For now though, she is just getting put back to something reasonably reliable and driven the **** out of.
Joined: Aug 2003
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From: Las Vegas, NV
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Re: 2003 Civic Si
damn man. Make sure you post up a build thread. I'd be interested in seeing how this car unfolds. Any plans for forced induction? Also, Quaife has an LSD for the k20. Just sayin. lol
edit: eventually down the line, maybe look into a franken k-build. K24 block with a K20 head. Make that thing torquey as ****. Won't be able to rev as high without bottom end work, but more lower end power, at least from what I've read
edit 2: I'm bass ackwards and had to fix it
edit: eventually down the line, maybe look into a franken k-build. K24 block with a K20 head. Make that thing torquey as ****. Won't be able to rev as high without bottom end work, but more lower end power, at least from what I've read
edit 2: I'm bass ackwards and had to fix it
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