1st trip to the dyno
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1st trip to the dyno
Just got back from the dyno. I am pretty happy with the results from some basic mods and untuned. Here is what I have done:
- V2 intake
- hp race header w/ cat
- crower stage 1 cam
- Ex Mag RSR exhaust
- bored out throttle body
Best pull on the dynojet
hp = 123.59
tq = 111.84
Maybe 130 whp with a really good tune??? Anyway, here is the chart. Questions, comments or snide remarks welcome!
- V2 intake
- hp race header w/ cat
- crower stage 1 cam
- Ex Mag RSR exhaust
- bored out throttle body
Best pull on the dynojet
hp = 123.59
tq = 111.84
Maybe 130 whp with a really good tune??? Anyway, here is the chart. Questions, comments or snide remarks welcome!
Just got back from the dyno. I am pretty happy with the results from some basic mods and untuned. Here is what I have done:
- V2 intake
- hp race header w/ cat
- crower stage 1 cam
- Ex Mag RSR exhaust
- bored out throttle body
Best pull on the dynojet
hp = 123.59
tq = 111.84
Maybe 130 whp with a really good tune??? Anyway, here is the chart. Questions, comments or snide remarks welcome!
- V2 intake
- hp race header w/ cat
- crower stage 1 cam
- Ex Mag RSR exhaust
- bored out throttle body
Best pull on the dynojet
hp = 123.59
tq = 111.84
Maybe 130 whp with a really good tune??? Anyway, here is the chart. Questions, comments or snide remarks welcome!

thats not too bad! i put down 110HP "forgot the torque"
with ebay intake STOCK ex exhaust mani catless downpipe and full 2.25inch exhaust.Now i have injen SRI and Megan header and full exhaust. so prob not much improvement. top end is a LITTLE better but not much. but good job on the numbers! im more impressed with the torque than anything. keep up the good work! oh and my dyno run was on a.... damn forget the name of the brand but it reads less that what you actually throw down so i was prob around 115-118HP really. with a good tune you could get 130 easy off that cam tho man. EASY. have fun! happy tuneing!
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nice numbers for a N/A D17.
i dont mean to hijack your thread, but do you have any kind of engine management or piggyback with the crower stage 1 cam? i'm debating on getting this, but i'm not sure what would be required to run this on our cars.
i dont mean to hijack your thread, but do you have any kind of engine management or piggyback with the crower stage 1 cam? i'm debating on getting this, but i'm not sure what would be required to run this on our cars.
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Good #'s!
It is a little over 10% gain over stock. Not too shabby.
Most stock EX dyno between 108-113whp.
I personaly dont think you'll need any tune, since your mod's are on par with stock ECU to deal with with injectors have room to add extra fuel.
It is a little over 10% gain over stock. Not too shabby.
Most stock EX dyno between 108-113whp.
I personaly dont think you'll need any tune, since your mod's are on par with stock ECU to deal with with injectors have room to add extra fuel.
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The stage 1 cam idles very stockish and is smooth from idle all the way to redline.
Since this is my daily driver, I wanted to keep things pretty streetworthy. Basically why I went stage 1. Props to Eddie at TrueHonda.com on the header and cam recommendation. And yeah, Eddie said no engine mgt is needed with the stage 1.
I may still try tuning with a vafc2 at some point just to see what happens but I will probably focus on suspension next.
Since this is my daily driver, I wanted to keep things pretty streetworthy. Basically why I went stage 1. Props to Eddie at TrueHonda.com on the header and cam recommendation. And yeah, Eddie said no engine mgt is needed with the stage 1.
I may still try tuning with a vafc2 at some point just to see what happens but I will probably focus on suspension next.
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The stage 1 cam idles very stockish and is smooth from idle all the way to redline.
Since this is my daily driver, I wanted to keep things pretty streetworthy. Basically why I went stage 1. Props to Eddie at TrueHonda.com on the header and cam recommendation. And yeah, Eddie said no engine mgt is needed with the stage 1.
I may still try tuning with a vafc2 at some point just to see what happens but I will probably focus on suspension next.
Since this is my daily driver, I wanted to keep things pretty streetworthy. Basically why I went stage 1. Props to Eddie at TrueHonda.com on the header and cam recommendation. And yeah, Eddie said no engine mgt is needed with the stage 1.
I may still try tuning with a vafc2 at some point just to see what happens but I will probably focus on suspension next.
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Thats the one I have. Hp race header and cat. Your right about the power. Its a beastly header. Good deal too (header, fake cat & O2 sim combo = $280) Pain in the **** to install though.
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It is a pain to install because it is a really big header and hard to fit in. There are a couple of very good diys on it to help though. The main hassle was grinding on the crossmember that the header bumps. Not really a problem just a hassle. But I still recommend the hp header. Esp for the $. I could really feel a difference with it.
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Here ya go:
http://www.7thgencivic.com/forums/sh...hp+race+header
Check out this thread too:
http://www.7thgencivic.com/forums/sh...ight=hp+header
http://www.7thgencivic.com/forums/sh...hp+race+header
Check out this thread too:
http://www.7thgencivic.com/forums/sh...ight=hp+header
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Maybe this will help too. I just took a pic of my engine. You can kinda sorta see the crossmember that is in the way. I did a lot of research on headers before getting mine. Some people said no fitment problems with the hp, others had to do some grinding like me. Never could get clear on the difference (lx vs ex vs MT vs Auto).
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nice run man you i also had the hp header i had a bitch of a time putin it on my 03 auto, i had to take my front motor mount off lift the motor and tranny up slide the header into place then put the motor mount back in it was a pain in the *** but i got it in.
/\/\
this is the correct way to do it. you dont have to cut the mount, just get the header around the mount by removing the mount and lifting the engine to clear.
i think the long tube design is what yeilds the higher power. but i also think that if HP had used smaller primaries it would have yeilded more. the exhaust ports are TINY on our heads and the size difference between the header and primaries has to cause turbulance. whatever the case may be trimming the mount isnt necessary
this is the correct way to do it. you dont have to cut the mount, just get the header around the mount by removing the mount and lifting the engine to clear.
i think the long tube design is what yeilds the higher power. but i also think that if HP had used smaller primaries it would have yeilded more. the exhaust ports are TINY on our heads and the size difference between the header and primaries has to cause turbulance. whatever the case may be trimming the mount isnt necessary
if you're running the HP header, it doesn't have a cat ... just a pipe and a resonator that they say is a high flow cat.
try running a CAI next time ;P
btw, what rims are you using? ... looks like a dynojet dyno.
try running a CAI next time ;P
btw, what rims are you using? ... looks like a dynojet dyno.



