Rep Power: 326

Car will be finished by spring...

Engine: (already done)
Stafford Fab upgraded turbo kit
equal runner manifold
alcohol injection
NGK iridium IX spark plugs
HKS BOV
Autometer boost, af and oil psi gauges
Vortec FMU
inline fuel pump
Centerforce dual friction clutch (buying within 2 months)
Apexi N1 catback
Revo SS

Brakes and susepension...(do be done)
power slot rotors
ebc green stuff brake pads (not red because i'll be street driving a lot)
Neuspeed SS brake lines
DOT4 racing brake fluid
Hayame coilover suspension
Neuspeed upper strut bar
Tanabe sustec lower brace
Progess rear anti-roll bar
rear camber kit

Rims and tires:
Si wheels with kumho ecsta supra 712s
ADR RS LIMITED concept pros (gunmetal 17" with machine lip) with Yokohama parada spec-2 tires

For the track I plan on about a 3" drop, as long as my camber kit/plates can accomidate for it. Basically, it's gonna be as low as it can go, without throwing off my camber.

It will only be this low for track use. Daily driving at about a 2" drop.

Lemme know what you think guys... My car will have a total of about 7-8K in performance mods. Not just engine stuff. I'm doin the whole thing as you can tell. When this is all done I'll be working on digital boost controller and the VAFC-2.

 
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what kind of racing do you plan on doing?

also 17" is the wrong size for any type of racing.

 
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I orignally had the 17s because I was buying the AEM big brake kit (found out it wasn't the best alternative), and I needed 17s to fit it. I have the SI wheels and now plan on buying the Kumho 712s because they're cheap and rank higher than most other competitors.

Full course racing (in title).

 
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damn man, a lot of money bein put into your car :x

but, everythin u are doin to it is cool! mad props

 
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thanks man

 
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AEM big brakes need 17s? sure? i thought 16s was good..

 
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yeah i'm totally digging your ride... Looks real good so far.

 
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You have way more faith in your little civic than I ever could...good luck to ya.

 
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if you're lapping or racing at a track, most important things are probably tires and brakes.

so if you going to spend so much on the car and take it to the track, might as well get some R compounds and go with the EBC red stuff ... with full course racing, you're going to get fade with just the green.

if you can't get grip through the corners and can't brake fast enough ... all the power will be lost

 
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Turbo with no LSD? Wow... have fun. Thats all I gotta say.
3"?? You gotta be kidding me. You're gonna need all the suspension travel you can get. I'd go 1.5-1.75" at the most. An uneven spot at 90 MPH in a corner exit is going to be quite a violent jolt. Do your suspension a favor and let it handle it without bottoming out.
I advise strongly agains the use of 712s for racing. They're hard as rocks, they chunk and they're not overly effective as a race tire.
Falken Azenis, Kuhmo MX, or if you wanna actually go for the gusto, Kuhmo Victoracers or Hoosier S303s... DOT approved R compounds.
You got some sort of roll cage/harness set up in the works? That tends to help. How about driving schools or lessons? Its not exactly just throw a helmet on and floor it.
Also, get some harsher pads and cheaper rotors. You'll eat a set of pads in a day at the track, so them lasting or being useable on the street won't matter. $30 Brembo blanks are your friend, you're gonna rip them up anyways.

 
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thats probably the best upgarde you could get ... if you throw all those upgrade on the car and just go at it on the track, i guarantee you'll go spend lost of time off track

as for Khumo MX, i would recommend against them if you're going to be at the track ... i've seen a pair of MX's rubber actually peel off like an orange

 
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better tires than that man , like Boilermaker1 said, falken azenis or something of that nature.

 
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k thanks for the input, only chose those cuz there cheap but i'll look for the falkens. and i already signed up and set everything up for performance driving school, and to get certified. as for the suspension travel... i'll ask the guy that's racing with me, he's over 30, been racing since he was young...

are the red stuffs ok for daily driving?

 
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It isn't going to matter. You will kill a set of pads in 1 day at the track. Use whatever you want on the street, change them for track day, then change them after track day. Most people also have 2 sets of rotors. One to destroy on the track, and one for the street.

 
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Do you really want your brand spanking new powerslot rotors to look like this after ONE DAY?



I'm with boilermaker on the LSD, you'll spin your *** off in the corners. You would probably run faster times N/A. Also, the SF turbo(which i believe is a super 60) is not so good for track, you will have to keep your motor revved high in the corners to maintain boost. I don't think you want hayame coilovers on a track car. If your going to put this much money in a machine, atleast get some decent track worthy coilovers. I'll post my setup for comparison.

Motor:

Garrett GT25R
HKS turbo manifold
31x6x2.5 intercooler
Greddy emanage w/ profec E-01
550cc sub-injector
450cc sub-injector (methonal)
HKS SSQV
Greddy A/F, boost, and EGT gauge with P/H/W

Suspension:

KW V2
15x7 rota slips
Hoosier R3S04 225/45/15
H&R spacers
EBC red with brembo blanks
-2.75 rear camber, -2.00 front camber
Progress Front and Rear sway bars
Cusco rear upper strut
Neuspeed x-brace
Neuspeed front upper strut
Autopower roll cage

probably forgetting alot of minor things

All my greddy p/h/w gauges are hooked up to my E-01 display so I can monitor my vitals all in one place. I also have the gauges wired to seperate buzzers, each with a different sound(radioshack rocks!). Even my car looses traction without an LSD, and thats with slicks. Anyways, your car is looking good for the most part. Have you had any experience with the track? like solo I?

 
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wannabeblown ... how are you finding the EBC redstuff? I have a pair sitting in my room that i've yet to install (its winter here); just wondering how they are on the track and on the street? ... (I have to drive 2hrs from the track to get home, and i know i'll be too lazy to change them at the track.)

and does anyone have a helmet? i need recommendations.

 
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great break down of everything...........good job so far

 
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im buying a bell helmet, its like 300. everyone i've talked to uses them.

I'll look into 2 sets of rotors, and a set of reds and greens. also, you think I can just use the phantom grip limited "coupler"? It'll save me cash and I emailed a rep, said it'll bolt up. My step-dad's friend that got me into racing uses it on his prelude and set it works great. I'll prob have to go with one of those...

 
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redstuff is great for street. The blue and yellow stuff is what you have to stay away from those are effective up to 800 degrees. Redstuff is ceramic which is the same thing used on the stock brakes for the evo, m3, sti, corvette, and others.

 
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nice man. can you email me pics of your setup? madwheel@aol.com.

BTW - I sold you the tenzo seat a while ago, how you like it?

 
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i love the tenzo, it holds my *** down in the corners =). I will email pics asap. I think i still owe zinkyroo some pics of the fuel setup.

 
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sweet thanks man.

 
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I dont think your going to have a whole lot of problems with the turbo on track, Wheel spin can easily be controled by your right foot. Just don't get to overly excited on corner extis, or your going to be changing your front tires alot.

Regarding tires, Falken Azenis may not be your best choice. They overheat at about 200 Deg F. and then they get greasy. The Kumho MX may be the better choice (I hear they dont overheat as quickly) but they have slightly less grip then the falkens.

also, you may want to pick up a set of Lower control arm bushings, the stock ones are total crap (I recently changed mine and found the stock ones torn up)

also, check your alignemt. Your going to be running a bit more negitive camber for the track Vs street, but not as much as you'd run for autocross. Think some where in the -1.5 to -2 Deg front and -1 to -1.5 rear. Toe is important too, Initially I'd go 0 Deg front and 0 Deg rear, and then experament with other settings, like Toe out on the nose, maybe toe out on the rear.

Once you get in to racing be it autocross or track days, your going to find that you will have to change wear parts (Brakes, tires, bushings, oil...) more frequently. Just make sure you plan for it in your budget.

Brake pads.... EBC green should be fine for a track day. Red would be better. Porterfields R4-S would work good here too. As you get better at racing, your going to need better brakes, because you'll be brakeing later and harder in to the corners, so you'll probably eventuly need a full race pad. For now any of the above would do.

Good luck and Keep the shiny side up!

 
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awesome thanks for all the useful info. this has been the most informative thread i've seen on this site for racing. it'll help me in the spring. where can i find better bushings?

 
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Zzyzx, i actually disagree with using EBC Greenstuff ... i've tried them on the track (in an accord) and they were fading like crazy after a few hot laps .... it gets kinda hairy when you're blasting into a corner and the car ain't slowing down.

Seriously, go with the Reds if you're going to take it to the track cause you're going to get crazy heat buildup.

After doing a good lap session on the track, you'll pull off to the pits and you'll see your rotors smoking.

 
Rep Power: 326

sweet lol can't wait to see that... slotted rotors will still be the best though right? i plan on powerslots