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This has been covered many times before in the past and one of the biggest solutions (if not the only one) that came up was to "get a rear lower tie bar."

For people who have upgraded or want to upgrade to a 22mm or thicker bar you may want to consider lowering springs with a stiff spring rate. The subframe rips from street cars who have lowering springs with soft spring rates. Thus, every time the driver makes a hard turn, they put more stress on the mount points. The more weight that shifts on the mounting points can eventually cause the subframe to tear from weak spring rates. So in short, a car with stiffer spring rates will put much less stress on the mounting points (bushings) of the rear anti-sway bar avoiding the sub-frame to tear. Keep in mind the body roll in the car isn't just based on the anti sway bars alone.

It also helps to keep those bushings lubed regularly. Proper installation helps as well.

I cannot tell you which springs/coilover set-ups have stiff or weak spring rates (except Ground Controls... theirs are weak). I think it's in the Suspension FAQ.

 
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good explanation... didnt even know that.. but i do know some of the stiffer/softer springs..

goldlines are really soft, then eibachs then neuspeeds. neuspeeds are pretty stiff compared to its "competition". sleeved coilovers are usually softer then lowering springs. teins are softer compared to B&Gs.

 
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i am very interested in modding my suspension. i was under the impression that getting a lower tie bar will prevent the subframe from tearing if the spring rates are too soft? will it still tear with the tie bar in place? before i modify anything supension oriented i want to make sure i am doing it right the first time and that is going to be giving me the optimum proformance. thanx for any info[IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]

 
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A lower tie bar does help if the bar is at least 21mm thick. It reduces the flex of the crossmember but alone, I doubt it'd be enough to prevent the crossmember from damaging with soft spring rates over a long time period. So I'm not saying don't get one as I think a person who's upgrading the rear anti sway bar to one really thick, should.

If you happen to get a 19mm RSX bar, don't waste $30 on the tie bar. Save it. Or use it to take yourself out to dinner.

 
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Damn, I never heard of the subframe ripping... though I can understand the endlinks. I supposed I'll be fine though with stock springs and 19mm RSX sway bar. I probably will waste $30 on a lower tie bar, and probably an upper tie bar too.

 
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Sonic is right, if you have the RSX-R sway bar, youll need that tie bar. However, if you have the 19mm, you can opt to wait on it until you lower your car. I think its a good idea to get one anyway when you have nearly completed your suspension mods. And where can you find one for 30 bucks? In the rear end i have the 19mm antisway and a upper rear strut brace (type r one of ebay); ive been looking for a lower tie bar too but all ive seen is the DC and the Neuspeed.

 
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Procarparts.com has a tie bar for $30 or so. At least that's what it cost me a few months back.

 
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Heed this advice: The first thing done to race cars is a balancing and stiffening of the chassis(no road miles, most race teams roll the car just so the torque from the engine does not twist the frame. Everything stock on the car is made to handle and support stock parts only. First thing you should do when you get your car is to spend the $100 and get the ebay bars. Well, I paid less than that if I had them all shipped at the same time. Just a thought.

 
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Found the rsx rear sway bar 19mm for 65.71 shipped, if anyone is looking for it..
illustration 005

 
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Yeah, I get what you're saying... buuuuuut... torque? What torque? [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/IMG]