strut bars and tie bar
#31
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Re: strut bars and tie bar
Thanks for the info, too bad I already have the Megans Racing strut bar in my garage...Guess the chopped up K&N will have to do...but only if it looks the part!
#32
Re: strut bars and tie bar
Well you guys must be doing something right because the Megan Racing strut bar is not working for my '04 LX with an AT. It is hitting the K&N that I have on my car (http://www.knfilters.com/search/prod...Prod=69-1008TS) and is driving me nuts! I don't really want to tilt the bar forward, although, I am not sure if this decreases performance as I am not a track day person. So what I was thinking of doing is making a custom intake with the following materials;
http://www.hps-siliconehoses.com/hps...hose-blue.html
http://www.knfilters.com/search/prod...Prod=69-1008TS
I would sue the 90 degree hose and cut the height to what I needed and the same with the aluminum tube which I would then weld to the K&N tubing where it begins to bend for the air filter to be attached.
So despite my rambling and excessive pictures and URL's do you all think it would be worth it? The silicon hose would probably be black and then I could powder-coat the aluminum tubing any color I want. Let me know guys!
-Justin
http://www.hps-siliconehoses.com/hps...hose-blue.html
http://www.knfilters.com/search/prod...Prod=69-1008TS
I would sue the 90 degree hose and cut the height to what I needed and the same with the aluminum tube which I would then weld to the K&N tubing where it begins to bend for the air filter to be attached.
So despite my rambling and excessive pictures and URL's do you all think it would be worth it? The silicon hose would probably be black and then I could powder-coat the aluminum tubing any color I want. Let me know guys!
-Justin
#33
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+1 for the neuspeed. Ive used it for about 200miles, and the difference is night and day. Love it! And it sits back against the firewall and the center is spacious and doesnt come close to my aem intake. I got it from corsport. Was thinking of getting the fipk k&n...so it'd fit with that intake?
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:EDITED:
Yea positive. I mean it dont bother me to much that they touch just sometimes wen I start the car or ease into first engine sometimes vibarates the pipe into it also i had to bend the brake fluid rez foward to make it fit, do you think a different but similar ebay pipe will clear the strut brace?
Yea positive. I mean it dont bother me to much that they touch just sometimes wen I start the car or ease into first engine sometimes vibarates the pipe into it also i had to bend the brake fluid rez foward to make it fit, do you think a different but similar ebay pipe will clear the strut brace?
#35
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my neuspeed bar is going on 8 yrs. no problems and its a noticable improvement in steering wheel play. i would never consider a bar that wasnt one solid piece (no nuts and bolts pieced together bars).
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#37
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rear upper tie bar is completely useless. rear lower sway bar, the rsx 19mm works great. also if you were wondering, the neuspeed bar only weighs about 4 lbs.
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im not sure about all the different civic models, because honda used close to 10 different front sway bar sizes, but my 2002 has a 22mm front bar that im happy with and decided to keep. the rear 13mm was way too small. i also installed moog front and rear endlinks because the stocks could not take the extra abuse from having a lowered car, ES bushings, and stiffer shocks. they will snap pretty quick.
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Is this the replacement im looking for in the back?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/160681385179...84.m1423.l2649
http://www.ebay.com/itm/160681385179...84.m1423.l2649
#45
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No, but you can reuse your endlinks. A set of poly energy suspension bushings is $10 I think, the little brackets I'm sure would only be a few bucks too. The bar itself is $75 or something new.
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Just found one for 45 shipped with bushings, and RSX endlinks (hope they are in good condition or ill use stock) 19mm not a bad price....
Thanks for the help mindbomber
Thanks for the help mindbomber
#47
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if you have a dx with no rear sway bar, its quite a bit more work than bolting a new one on.
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I have an EM2 EX. Shouldn't be too bad. From what I have read it should bolt right on. The stock one is 13mm in the back so it should make a difference. I'm gonna stay with the stock 15mm.
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If you feel so inclined, some people also prefer deleting the front sway bar all together. Both Max and myself, have no front sway. To see if you like the feel you can just unhook one front endlink and you'll have the full effect of no bar up front.
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I may do that this weekend. I have the Neuspeed upper strut bar coming in and may even wait for that. I appreciate your help... one of the better car forums I have been on.
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Max gave a good explanation some time ago on front sway bar removal, I'll quote him to spare myself having to write one. If you search through the site history a bit it's been discussed a few other times as well.
Originally Posted by Maxiternity
Here's my take on front swaybars (this is an over-simplification, of course):
Bigger Front Swaybar
Pro - Better Control/Less Slop going IN to a turn, faster approach speeds
Con - Less Grip OUT, Slower exit speeds
Smaller Front Swaybar
Pro - More Grip OUT of a turn/Faster Exit Speeds
Con - Less Control/More Slop going into a turn, slower approach speeds
There are two schools of thought on which is better for the track or the street. It all depends on your driving style. Are you the type of driver that likes to exit an off-ramp at speed, then quickly slow down before the apex (or trail brake off-apex) and/or carry speed into a 90 degree right turn with out touching the brakes, the bigger swaybar would suit you better. Having less sway/having your car handle consistently is the benefit of a larger front sway. Conversely if you like to slow way down prior to a turn and barrel out without pushing your front end (understeer), the smaller front swaybar allows more of the outside tire to stay in contact with the road. This contact allows for more grip. More grip equals more speed exiting a corner. Think of the guys that lift their inside rear wheel off the ground with a FAT rear sway in autocross or the track. You are essentially doing the same to the front outside tire, with a FAT front sway. Your are in effect, countering the downward forces on that tire (eliminating sway), causing less grip.
Who's right? It all depends on the driver. Most people like the smaller sways in the front for more exit speed out/greater grip in the turn. Is that the right approach? Not necessarily. This also requires the person to have some skills in the driving department. More grip up front, typically means the rear end is losing grip (if countered with a larger rear sway). This equates to the rear end smacking into a curb, tree, etc. 99 percent of cars are dialed in with understeer, including our Civics. There's a reason why 01/02s have a 25.4mm front swaybar. The 03-05s went down to a 16mm, but the rears were reduced as well. This was done to make the suspension more compliant, due to the many complaints about the harshness of the ride of earlier models.
Understeer is a joy-killer however. Most enthusiasts don't want to amplify that with a larger front. The reason larger fronts are available is to counteract the effects of bumping up the rears to 19, 22, 24, 27 and/or 32mm sways.
Hope that helped to explain things.
Bigger Front Swaybar
Pro - Better Control/Less Slop going IN to a turn, faster approach speeds
Con - Less Grip OUT, Slower exit speeds
Smaller Front Swaybar
Pro - More Grip OUT of a turn/Faster Exit Speeds
Con - Less Control/More Slop going into a turn, slower approach speeds
There are two schools of thought on which is better for the track or the street. It all depends on your driving style. Are you the type of driver that likes to exit an off-ramp at speed, then quickly slow down before the apex (or trail brake off-apex) and/or carry speed into a 90 degree right turn with out touching the brakes, the bigger swaybar would suit you better. Having less sway/having your car handle consistently is the benefit of a larger front sway. Conversely if you like to slow way down prior to a turn and barrel out without pushing your front end (understeer), the smaller front swaybar allows more of the outside tire to stay in contact with the road. This contact allows for more grip. More grip equals more speed exiting a corner. Think of the guys that lift their inside rear wheel off the ground with a FAT rear sway in autocross or the track. You are essentially doing the same to the front outside tire, with a FAT front sway. Your are in effect, countering the downward forces on that tire (eliminating sway), causing less grip.
Who's right? It all depends on the driver. Most people like the smaller sways in the front for more exit speed out/greater grip in the turn. Is that the right approach? Not necessarily. This also requires the person to have some skills in the driving department. More grip up front, typically means the rear end is losing grip (if countered with a larger rear sway). This equates to the rear end smacking into a curb, tree, etc. 99 percent of cars are dialed in with understeer, including our Civics. There's a reason why 01/02s have a 25.4mm front swaybar. The 03-05s went down to a 16mm, but the rears were reduced as well. This was done to make the suspension more compliant, due to the many complaints about the harshness of the ride of earlier models.
Understeer is a joy-killer however. Most enthusiasts don't want to amplify that with a larger front. The reason larger fronts are available is to counteract the effects of bumping up the rears to 19, 22, 24, 27 and/or 32mm sways.
Hope that helped to explain things.
#53
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im sure im the exception, but i like the harsh ride. its a modded civic, not a bmw lol. i like to feel the road and hear noises. not drive an isolated couch on wheels.
#54
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So I removed the stock ~13mm rear sway bar from my 04 EX EM2 yesterday. Was a relatively easy process until I attempted to remove the stock links which were rusted into place and could not be removed wthout the used of a reciprocating saw... yes I had to cut the bolts off. Didnt damage my baby either!!!
I replaced it with a 19mm RSX-S sway bar i got off ebay (a junkyard in NJ for 35$). VERY easy bolt on application.. I could (and did) bend the stock 13mm one over my knee.... lets just say I dont think it did THAT much....
Here are some pics of the new sway bar. nothing overly exciting but it drives better for sure. I noticed instantly less body roll. Very easy and worth while in my opinion.
photo1-5-1.jpg?t=1332780515
photo2-4-1.jpg?t=1332780558
I replaced it with a 19mm RSX-S sway bar i got off ebay (a junkyard in NJ for 35$). VERY easy bolt on application.. I could (and did) bend the stock 13mm one over my knee.... lets just say I dont think it did THAT much....
Here are some pics of the new sway bar. nothing overly exciting but it drives better for sure. I noticed instantly less body roll. Very easy and worth while in my opinion.
photo1-5-1.jpg?t=1332780515
photo2-4-1.jpg?t=1332780558
#55
Re: strut bars and tie bar
Can you install an aftermarket intake with the bar installed without a problem? I heard some aftermarket intakes won't fit smoothly with the bar installed.
#56
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depends on the intake. theres a thread somewhere that some guy posted all the brands of intakes that would work with the brand strut bars and vise versa. i think it was on ht
#57
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neuspeed bars fit with almost any intake because the bar sits literally touching the dash cowel in the middle.
#59
Re: strut bars and tie bar
Question: I have a 2005 Honda Civic EX Coupe and I'm looking for Upper and Lower strut bar it's crazy because every place I went to and put 2005 Honda Civic EX I can't find a matching strut bar can anyone plz forward me a link that say ( Front and Rear 2005 Honda Civic EX Coupe Strut Bar .... Thank you
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Looks like Car-ID has a few, search for strut tower brace. Shows two of them are not in stock though. Procivic has a rear strut bar, Megan brand.