Boilermaker1

iTrader: (16)

For the love of god, stop asking. I thought 3 times a day was enough, apparently not. I suppose its better to educate yourselves before rather than later, but if you use the search function like you're supposed to, and you do your research before you spend upwards of $800 on a drop done right, then you should figure out in 5 minutes or less that YES YOU NEED A CAMBER KIT. For mild drops (less than 1.25") you probably don't, but you may opt for one just to be safe. I have a friend dropped on Pro-kits, no camber kits, and he's got nearly spec alignment numbers. Any lower, you probably want one if you value your tires. While toe kills tires more than camber does, you can only adjust toe so much (especially in the rear). Toe and Camber settings effect eachother, so you need to have the adjustability to get your toe to 0. In the front, your camber can be as much as -2.25 before your steering rods run out of travel, but -2.25 will probably do something to your tires.
Rear kits are a threaded adjustable length upper control arm. It bolts in with 3 bolts, 2 on the body, one on the back of the drum and you can adjust its length to control the angle of the wheel. This part is critical as the rear is far more prone to camber changes than the front (nature of a multi-link double wishbone). You need it. There's numerous kits available. SPC and Ingalls probably make the most inexpensive and widely used ones, they're $110-140 depending on the store... you can spend plenty more if you want, I've seen them go as high as $400 for JDM brand super adjustable (5 degree) arms, but they're unnecessary for basic adjustment. A normal range (+2/-3 degree) kit will take care of any reasonable drop.
Front kits... well 2 options. Camber or Crash Bolts that are smaller than the stock crash bolts give you additional range of motion by freeing space up in the knuckle hole to set the knuckle more upright. They're $20-30 bucks, but they have plenty of flaws. If you drive hard, they have a tendency to move and not hold their setting. As a result, frequent alignments (every few months) are a necessity. If you're looking at any sort of racing, I don't recommend them unless the rules specify that this is the only way you can change your camber. Honestly, if you can get your camber back to about -1.5 degrees or less without the use of camber bolts and still get 0 toe, I wouldn't even bother with the bolts.
Camber Plates are the better alternative. They replace the upper mount of the strut with a sliding bearing surface and the entire suspension angle changes from the top. This allows the use of stock crash bolts which hold their setting much better, it also provides a better reaction from the corner because the wheel is aligned with the suspension like its supposed to be (scrub radius unchanged). Plates run from about $200 to $400, there's a few available.
I don't think I missed anything.... if you have a question about anything that has been posted here or still do not understand, then post it IN THIS THREAD.

goodtimes

iTrader: (2)

how hard is it to put on a front camber kit on an 03?

Boilermaker1

iTrader: (16)

Take the top crash bolt out, put the camber bolt in, take it to the alignment shop.

goodtimes

iTrader: (2)

? were is the crash bolt

thanks

Boilermaker1

iTrader: (16)

Bottom of the strut

nindoo

iTrader: (1)

When you lower your car, how does this affect the camber and toe on the front wheels?(Lets say you haven't installed camber bolts or plates)

I've read a few times that their is a degree of camber that wont' eat your tires? Is that true?

robbclark1

iTrader: (8)

Front camber will go more negative but only slightly. Rear camber will get more negative than the front. Also, your toe will come in. Go look at the geometry and just picture what happens to the steering arm when the camber get more negative.

When making more negative camber, the toe will go in, when making more positive camber, the toe will go out. But it can be changed by using the tie rod.

Toe out will eat your tires more than camber.

nindoo

iTrader: (1)

I can't seem to find a link to alignments. There was a nice outside information someone posted once. It was one of you suspension gurus that posted it.

muzhik that link was a good read.

2K1Civic17"Gabe

iTrader: (9)

haha, after this was asked like 95-100 times at least, people still want more clarification. Just get a damn camber kit, figure out how to install it, its simple, dont ask how to install it, find the DIY on here if you must. Than go get an alignment, and your good to go. get an alignment every 6mo-1yr. I leave my camber set at -1 on the rears, it doesnt eat them up noticeably at all like -3 does. -1 is a good setting for a little extra grip on the road.

Heres a visual for people who dont know what camber is still. When you lower your car, your tires do this. Same thing when your shocks travel down.

// \\ << Negative camber (when you lower your car)
\\ // << Positive camber
l l l l << wow, they look good after a camber kit was installed and adjusted

You want to straighten them back up, like this l l l l. Got it good, lol

mystery

where is a good place to purchase camber kits? one more question. say i get new suspension.. would i still want to get a camber kit? as of now. i know i need one cause not having a kit on. its eating the crap outta my tires. my rear tires are like this // \\.... it sucks.

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

if i take my springs off, will the camber kit mess up the car? How do I align the camber kit once I install it?

shroomster

HA! is there a kit that works better than another or will they all give you the same performance (camber kits) WTF? only one search every 30 seconds? I'm looking through the forums right now for a DIY on camber kits so I'm bearing my face for the slap, but anyways I'd like to know at least how long it'd take to put them on or a diagram or something of how they look on the car?

robbclark1

iTrader: (8)

I know you are new schroomster, but there are so many ways to find information. It takes about 1 hour if none of the bolts are frozen. If you are installing suspension, then install it all at once. Wait for the springs to settle (about a week or so) and get an alignment.

If you search the members rides rides you can find pictures



Hotchkis is probably the best designed but will cost you. SPC is the preferred one, followed by ingalls. They all do the same thing, but you have to worry about them "freezing up."

http://www.spcperformance.com/PerfTe...rojHon1_A.html

http://www.spcperformance.com/PerfPa...art_67230.html

http://www.specprod.com/PROD_DIR/PROD_PASSCAR.HTML

Boilermaker1

iTrader: (16)

Thats the hotchkis difference. The barrel is 7075 T6 Aluminum... so you DO NOT have to worry about the barrel rustwelding itself to the ends of the arm, they know it, so they can charge you for it. The hotchkis arms are FAR less likely to jam on you than the others.

ohnoitssoysauce

iTrader: (1)

i heard that we only need a rear camber kit. is that true for 01

robbclark1

iTrader: (8)

'Honestly, if you can get your camber back to about -1.5 degrees or less without the use of camber bolts and still get 0 toe, I wouldn't even bother with the bolts.'

read the post. There isn't active camber gain in the front, but it is just good to have the adjustability. Besides most of the sets come in a kit with front and rear.

Honda2k4

are there different camber kits for 01-04 civics? depending if its an 01, 02, 03, or an 04? or is it 1 size fits all?

Boilermaker1

iTrader: (16)

1 size fits all rears. Theres 2 front sizes.

Honda2k4

14mm and 16mm?

robbclark1

iTrader: (8)

yes, 14mm 01-02
16mm 03-05

Kyle23

I have some subs that have caused my camber to almost be in the red (honda dealership and they cant fix it any further) I need to bring the back up a litte b/c I dont like the negative camber on the rear. Any suggestions?

Kinda looks like ^. just not nearly as bad

robbclark1

iTrader: (8)

he has bags and using a camber kit would be pointless

IF you don't have a camber kit, get one. If you do have a camber kit, take it off and change the position of the arms to get more positive camber out of it.

truehonda

iTrader: (97)

:cough: We have about 100 in stock :cough:

Seriously people. A $500+ of tires is not worth $150 not spent and having to buy new ones in about 2 months.

CivicMexicano

iTrader: (4)

I was about to buy an Eibach Camber kit, its also aluminium, anyone here use it, or recomend it?

Also how much does th Hotchkis one cost?

truehonda

iTrader: (97)

Eibach is ok, Hotckis is expensive. Thats why we sell SPC, higher quality than eibach or equal and cheaper than hotchkis.

Eddie

robbclark1

iTrader: (8)

Eibach is SPC. I hvae heard of people buying Eibach camber kits and getting SPC ones.

CivicMexicano

iTrader: (4)

Taht odd, an auction on Ebay says theyre Alumimun, i thought SPC were steel...

truehonda

iTrader: (97)

They are similar because they are produced in same factory. In terms of quality, I like SPC because of their customer service which is part of quality to me.

Gangsta Dave

I have spc on the rear and they work fine for me def worth buying. It actually makes the car look better imo. the wheels aren't all jacked lookin / \

jeffsta17

iTrader: (9)

This thread is very helpful thanks guys!