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Checked with the dealership... new bushings and rear sway bar: ~$110CDN

Checked various forums, used bushings and bar: ~$80CDN

Would you fork over that $30 more to get the new one, or would you pay $80 for a used?

 
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personally i would spend the extra bucks. That's just me though IMO.

 
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Wow that was quick.

I agree with you, if I had to pay $80 i might as well buy it new...

 
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While I'm still up... would you buy a fancy DC Sports strut bar, or would you buy a cheap DC Sports knock-off (if one is available)? Is there a difference? (and no, i'm not talking about those cheap eBay ones... hopefully a bit more useful but still a knock-off)

 
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do you got a intake?

edit: if you do you may want to watch out what you buy. The dc will fit with the intake but not sure about the knock offs.

 
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AEM-type knock-off CAI, yes... that's why i was looking at the DC Sports one... but it's a bit pricy... I want to preserve the knock-off tradition as long as it's actually worth the money... you know, knock-off muffler and other "replicas".

My main concern is that, since it's just a knock-off, should I worry about the build quality (that should stop me from buying such items)??

 
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i mean rotas are knock off's of spoon rims but doesn't affect the quality of them because of lot of people have them and are satisfied with them so depending on what kinda bar you get the quality should be fine. Depending on what kind you get though!!!


edit: be smart when buying knock off things.

 
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Oh yeah? That's comforting... well, I am hoping I can find DCSports knock-off strut bars... this way it'll fit over the CAI but still be cheap... thanks for your responses bud! Appreciate it!

 
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check out this thread to. In case you wanna purchase a good bar.
http://www.7thgencivic.com/forums/sh...hreadid=139437

 
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I'd avoid the DC bar, its got to many joints and its Flexible.

 
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Ahh... damn... it looks sexy though...

hmm... does anyone have a pic of the neuspeed strut bar installed??? I wonder how it looks... pretty please for a pic people!

 
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Well are you looking for parts that look pretty? or **** that works?
DC looks pretty but is a piece of ****. Neuspeed doesn't look snazzy, but works.
BTW... I paid the extra money to buy my RSX bar new.

 
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just pay extra or get the progress anti-sway bar like i got along with the neuspeed; a great combo!!!

Injen

 
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Hmm, i guess the neuspeed doesn't look quite as ugly beside an engine as it does on the ground...

I thought the point of the strut bar is simply to tie the top of the strut towers together.... so what kind of flexing would be there??

 
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I guess when the strut towers start shifting out of phase with each other? or does the bar actually flex, such that it doesn't keep the tower distance fixed?

 
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The engine bay is basically a box frame. It flexes torsionally (it twists). The bar keeps one side from lifting up when you turn because its leaning on the other side and forcing the side that is getting pushed up back down. it just distributes the load from the suspension to the other side of the frame, reducing its effect.

 
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Hmm... I think I understand what you mean...

So when you're making a right turn, your right tower tries to squeeze into your left tower, and the right tower shifts up. So the left tower keeps the right tower in its place by pushing back through the strut bar, yeah?

And if the above is correct, then the flexing you guys are talking about would occur at the joints (where the bar meets the brackets), thus not being useful?

Thanks for the info, btw!

 
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The DC bar is FIVE pieces, 2 end plates, 2 angle bars and the cross bar. its all bolted together. Every one of those joints will flex, not to mention its aluminum, which isn't as stiff as the steel welded Neuspeed one. So basically, the DC one isn't doing much but looking pretty. You're right with the cross tower thingie... if the right one pushes up, the left one resists and holds it down. Its not perfect, you won't loose all the twist, but its greatly reduced.

 
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Got it! Sounds great! Thanks a lot for the info! I'll start looking for neuspeed knock-offs then :-)

 
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Nothing wrong with used Rsx sway bar.
Just get used one and put money toward Neuspeed front strut bar.
Nobody makes Neuspeed replica parts.

 
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https://passwordjdm.com/index.php?pa...d14bd5ef0e036b

 
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They're DC2R parts. Kinda useless.

 
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Why pay $100 for a Type S bar when you can find the Type R one for just as much (or a lil' cheaper) with bushings on the internet?

http://polepositionproducts.com/jdmhonda/dc5.htm

 
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because sometimes the 22mm type R bar is WAY to big for most people. And it doesn't come with an integrated tie bar so you would have to buy one. So the cost of both bars would cost just as much as the progress bar, so why not just get that? My understanding is the ITR and CTRs both have integrated tie bars/chassis strengthening as part of the chassis so there are no worries of breaking anything

The 22mm bar will greatly increase oversteer, especially on the 03+ and most peple don't know how to drive with that kind of oversteer.

 
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^^right^^ Just because the Type R bar is bigger doesnt mean its the better bar. Its all about ballance.



Example, I have an 01 EX and it came with a 25mm Front anti-roll bar. I ended up downgradign to the 03+ 16mm bar inorder to get the handling balance I wanted.

 
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Okay, agreed. However I disagree with the cost of the bar + the cost of the tie bar = Progress as my 22mm bar + tie bar combo doesn't exceed $145.

I've had the bar on for a while now... over a year to be exact. (With a tie bar.) I've been good with no signs of wear or flex. With GCs and stock struts I still encountered undesirable understeer. Keep in mind that the GCs are nowhere to be stiff as I was sort of daring... or taking a chance with the soft spring/stiff anti sway bar combo.

Well, now the GCs are due for their demise... and Hayame has arrived to replace them - we'll see how well the bar does with Hayame's, as well as having a front upper strut bar which should arrive next week. I'm still using the stock 01-02 front anti sway bar.

Oh yeah, Zzyzx... now that the stock struts are gone, it's time to join the rest of you guys in STS this year. I couldn't do it before because I was worried that the soft GCs and struts + 22mm bar = what happens to the common 6th Gen Civic - and that's having the bar rip off the subframe. I didn't want to encounter what some 7th gens owners did, which was a broken endlink - minor, but still inconvenient. So far, so good.

All I need now is a a seperate bank account for tires.

 
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as of now, i know of no one who has cracked their chassis or subframe on 7thgen. From what I understand it has been done on a 6th gen or 5thgen. right now I would be worried more about broken endlinks. Again, no one i know of has broken the frame, but then again, not many of us race with thick sway bars.

 
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A while ago there was a guy who auto-x'd with a 22mm bar in the rear. He had no issues as his suspension set-up was GCs/Koni I believe. I forgot his username because he ended up selling his car.

The rear chassis on the 7th gen seems to be more refined - or better yet, closer in design compared to it's DC5 cousin. Where-as in the past, people with EM1s (99-00 Si coupes) who dared to put the DC2R anti sway bars on their cars had the bars ripped off the frame due to lack of stiff springs. Not to mention, the design of the crossmember was different.

I really can't imagine this happening to the 7th gen Civic. The rear subframe design is no different than that of the EP3 and DC5. The only difference I see with the DC5R is the tie bar AND stronger rear control arms and a stronger crossmember.


DC5R


EM2