Tein's?
Tein's?
ive got about a grand to spend on some teins
what kind should i get to drop my car? ima drop it 3 inches
does anyone know where i can get the best deal on some tein coil overs?
if so can u post the link and pictures
what kind should i get to drop my car? ima drop it 3 inches
does anyone know where i can get the best deal on some tein coil overs?
if so can u post the link and pictures
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I would go with the Tein SS, you arent gonna be able to drop it that low tho. The Teins are designed for driveablity on a race suspension setup not a slammed ride. You want to slam it i would recommend going with the B&G coilovers. The teins are gonna give you close to a 2in drop. I have some pics in my members rides of the Tein drop.
Last edited by RedDragon333; Sep 8, 2003 at 05:05 PM.
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This is my car on Teins.....they are slammed all the way.
rear gap
front gap
They've actually settled lower now.
rear gap
front gap
They've actually settled lower now.
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Originally posted by OsOBooSTeD
damn fly i thought that they would lower it some more... i mean the rear is ok.. but the front.. BLEH.... i wish they would go lower... what about B & G's ? they good lower?
damn fly i thought that they would lower it some more... i mean the rear is ok.. but the front.. BLEH.... i wish they would go lower... what about B & G's ? they good lower?
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the Teins arent meant for slamming they are meant for racing you want to slam it get the B&Gs. The Teins are gonna run you about 1100.00 for the SS and about 1600 for the FLEX whcih will need to be custom fit. They are meant for the RSX. They will drop it lower but not too much. Teins is mean for competition and the B&Gs for show mostly.
I'm still interested in getting tein ss this christmas not really all too hyped about slamming my car that much I just want a better ride than I have now, so where's the place to get it with installation the whole price with taxes and everything installed here in houston?
If you wait a couple months, the Flex's for our car will come out (allows you to use the EDFC). I have the flex's for the EP3. I use to have my car lowered about 3 inch in the rear and 2.75 in with -1.5 camber in the front. The rear springs settled and now its back to 2.5 in and 2.25 in the front. I can clear most speed bumps now, no prob. I bought the Flex's in October of last year, a couple of months after they came out. They are still riding strong. All I need are my sway bars...
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The B&Gs aren't just for show by the way. You say the Tein is for racing, but don't most of you also go way below what Tein recommends. Either way, they're both good full coilovers.
B&G will go lower, but might be stiffer than Tein. Also no adjustable rebound, but I don't I ever needed it.
Tein SS won't go as low, and is a little easier on ride comfort. Theres adjustable dampning and the name Tein is just well known. Like I said before, when you tell someone you have Teins, they know you have a serious setup. When you tell them you got B&Gs, they'll be like what?
Just wanted to add that the B&Gs are really cheap now on groupbuy from Circa X at $900 I think shipped. Hecka cheap from back when they were just released. I got them for over 1100 b/c of tax and s/h.
Oh by the way, that's weird how aszwero's setup settled to a higher level...haha. Usually after settling, it gets lower.
B&G will go lower, but might be stiffer than Tein. Also no adjustable rebound, but I don't I ever needed it.
Tein SS won't go as low, and is a little easier on ride comfort. Theres adjustable dampning and the name Tein is just well known. Like I said before, when you tell someone you have Teins, they know you have a serious setup. When you tell them you got B&Gs, they'll be like what?
Just wanted to add that the B&Gs are really cheap now on groupbuy from Circa X at $900 I think shipped. Hecka cheap from back when they were just released. I got them for over 1100 b/c of tax and s/h.
Oh by the way, that's weird how aszwero's setup settled to a higher level...haha. Usually after settling, it gets lower.
Last edited by duyaknow; Sep 9, 2003 at 03:22 AM.
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Originally posted by OsOBooSTeD
man install that **** urself.. its 2 bolts down low and 3 up top for the front... then the rear is 2 up top and one down low.. it takes an HOUR wit the right tools and no lift..
man install that **** urself.. its 2 bolts down low and 3 up top for the front... then the rear is 2 up top and one down low.. it takes an HOUR wit the right tools and no lift..
I bet for a new person it'll take about 6-7 hours to install. It is a greuling but fun install!
Tein's seem to be the way to go. Now here's the question. Should you buy the "Basic" or spend the extra on the "SS". Is the extra adjustability worth it? I live in New England and will only drop 1.5" to 2".
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Originally posted by MatrixShark
Tein's seem to be the way to go. Now here's the question. Should you buy the "Basic" or spend the extra on the "SS". Is the extra adjustability worth it? I live in New England and will only drop 1.5" to 2".
Tein's seem to be the way to go. Now here's the question. Should you buy the "Basic" or spend the extra on the "SS". Is the extra adjustability worth it? I live in New England and will only drop 1.5" to 2".
As for KW's, they are good, looks good, and it feels like stock. they come stainless steel and with damper setting.
Ok heres a discussion about KW's compared to Teins SS, Tein Flex and Jic by Zzyzx :
This is something robbclark1 and I were discussing earlier in the month. So hopefully he'll pop in and make sure I don't forget any thing.
Spring rates are an interesting problem. Mostly because there are several things that you have to think about when deciding what spring rates to use. In a performance application Springs only do three things, the control how much the chassis of the car rolls (body roll), Keep the tires on the ground while incountering bumps (A tire in the air can make no traction) and they control where weight is transfered to (Front or back) durrig a turn. If the car is to be daily driven you must add a fourth job to the springs, Comfort. Of the three performance jobs, controling where weight is transfered to is the most important.
So starting with the most important job, Controling weight, I'll try and explain my understanding of what effects spring rates have on handling.
1. Controling weight
the simpilest explination of this it, the side of the car, Font or rear, that has the Higher spring rate (Or roll resistance) will have more weight appied to it durring a turn. so how does this affect handling? It all relates to how a tire makes traction. Simply put, the ammount of traction a tire makes is directly linked to how much weight is applied to that tire. I.E. the more weight a tire has on it, the more traction it will make. so it can be assumed that the side of the car with the higher spring rate will make more traction in a turn then the other side. there is a Flaw to this assumtion though, The flaw is that although a tire makes more traction as more weight is applied, the function is not linier. Its more like a parabola, where as more weight is applied, less traction is made. this means that a tire will eventally "Saturate" or nolonger be able to make enough traction to hold the weigh applied to it, and it starts to slide. this is primarily how we can control oversteer and understeer, by adjusting the roll resistance (By changing spring rates) on the front and rear of the car.
2. Controling Body Roll
Body roll in its self is not nessisaily a bad thing. Camber change caused by body roll is. Now camber change can be tuned out by adjusting the static camber of the car. I know of many Autocrossers that run -2 degrees or more camber on their cars. now this is great for Low to mid speed Hard cornering (Autocross) it is not so good on a track(Probably to much camber) or the street (premature tire wear). ultimatly static camber (form a performance view) will be set by checking tire temps with a pyromiter. That way you can customize your camber settings to your driving. Camber change can also be controled by increacing the spring rates. But you probably only want to do this a little bit, as increaced spring rates may have other adverse implimantations due to road conditions (Thats next).
3. Keepin the tires stuck to the ground
As I said before, a tire in the air can make no traction. Simple. what this means is that although you want higher spring rates for controling weight and body roll, you can however have a to high of a spring rate for the surfaces you drive on. So the surfaces you race or drive on will have a great impact on what spring rates you can ultimatly run, the rougher the surface, the softer the springs. this is why race cars can run such high spring rates, because the tracks are much smoother then the roads we drive on.
4. Comfort
for a street driven car you have to consider some level of comfort right? This is where personal prefrence come in to play. onece a gain , softer springs = softer ride.
Now we can apply this to the suspensions that we know the spring rates on and have at least an Idea as to how it probably will handle.
here are the spring rates of some of the suspeinsions that are availble to our cars.
Tein:
Super Street (EM2/ES1) 336F/448R
Flex (EP3) 448f/559R
Flex (DC5) 448F/559R
Jic:
FLTA2 (DC5) 450F/506R
FLTA2 (EP3) 450F/506R
KW:
Type II (DC5,EP3) 350F/500R
so with these # we can get some Idea as to how each set up will perform.
Well start by finding the Total spring rates of each setup, this will give us an Idea as to haw "harsh" the ride will be from each set up, aswell as how much body roll to expect from each setup (vaguely ). (#4 Comfort, #2 Body roll and #3 Tires stuck to ground)
Tein:
SS (EM2/ES1) 784
Flex (EP3/DC5) 1007
Jic:
FLTA2 (DC5/EP3) 956
KW
Type II (DC5/EP3) 850
Conclusion: it appears to me that the SS will give you the niceset ride comfort wise while the Flex will be the roughest. as far as body roll, the opposite occurs, flex will have the least while the ss will have the most.
now we'll look at % of spring rates front to rear, this will give us an Idea as to how each setup will handle (which ones will reduce understeer the most, possibly to the point of oversteer)
(percentages are approximate)
Tein:
SS (EM2/ES1) 42.85%F/57.14%R
Flex (EP3/DC5) 44.48%F/55.51%R
Jic:
FLTA2 (DC5/EP3) 47.07%F/52.95%R
KW
Type II (DC5/EP3) 41.17%F/58.82%R
Conclusion: by looking at the Spring rate percenatges, you can get a look at which one will Mostlikely reduce understeer the most (the Higher the % rear = more weigh transfered to the back durring a turn = less understeer) By the Numbers it appears that the KW's will reduce understeer the most, then the SS, Flex, and last JIC. So dosn't this mean that the KW's and Tein SS will handle better then both the Flex and Jic setups????!!!!! Possibly, but more then likly not. THe reason they Probably will not handle as well as the Jic or Flex setups deals with what we talked about earlier. BODY ROLL/Camber Change!!
By the Numbers
Tein SS
22.14% weaker then Tein Flex
17.99% weaker then Jic FLTA2
7.76% weaker then KW Type II
KW Type II
15.59% weaker then Tein Flex
11.08% weaker the Jic FLTA2
Jic FLTA2
5.06% weaker then Tein Flex
so what this shows is that although both the Tein SS and the KW Type II have the largest % of spring rates on the rear, they also have the weakest spring rates overall. this in turn means more body roll in total, and thus more camber change which equals less total traction.
Finally the end:
I would say this about the different set ups
1. the Tein SS will give you the most comfortable ride with vastly improved handling over stock.
2. KW's Type II will handle better then the SS's and possibly handle as well as the Jics or Flex setups due to its High Rear % spring rate. This set up may prove to be the best autocross setup currently, and if tied to the right set of Anti-Rollbars(To get the overall roll resistance up) may prove to be better then the Jic and Flex setups. Also if KW does put out the Type III dampiner for our cars that may put it well over the top. (Having adjustible camber would help too. Hit hint )
3. both the Jic FLTA2 and Teins Flex dampiners will perform well, however I feel that the Flex system will do better at autocross where the FLTA2 might be better for track days.
there are other things that may sway people to one suspension vs another like Camber plates or Rebound/compression adjustment.
In the end, we really will not know which is really better, untill some one goes out and tests each setup, but by just the #'s we can get a peak in to how each one might handle.
thats it, Im done.
I hope with this information, will help you in your decision.
Ok heres a discussion about KW's compared to Teins SS, Tein Flex and Jic by Zzyzx :
This is something robbclark1 and I were discussing earlier in the month. So hopefully he'll pop in and make sure I don't forget any thing.
Spring rates are an interesting problem. Mostly because there are several things that you have to think about when deciding what spring rates to use. In a performance application Springs only do three things, the control how much the chassis of the car rolls (body roll), Keep the tires on the ground while incountering bumps (A tire in the air can make no traction) and they control where weight is transfered to (Front or back) durrig a turn. If the car is to be daily driven you must add a fourth job to the springs, Comfort. Of the three performance jobs, controling where weight is transfered to is the most important.
So starting with the most important job, Controling weight, I'll try and explain my understanding of what effects spring rates have on handling.
1. Controling weight
the simpilest explination of this it, the side of the car, Font or rear, that has the Higher spring rate (Or roll resistance) will have more weight appied to it durring a turn. so how does this affect handling? It all relates to how a tire makes traction. Simply put, the ammount of traction a tire makes is directly linked to how much weight is applied to that tire. I.E. the more weight a tire has on it, the more traction it will make. so it can be assumed that the side of the car with the higher spring rate will make more traction in a turn then the other side. there is a Flaw to this assumtion though, The flaw is that although a tire makes more traction as more weight is applied, the function is not linier. Its more like a parabola, where as more weight is applied, less traction is made. this means that a tire will eventally "Saturate" or nolonger be able to make enough traction to hold the weigh applied to it, and it starts to slide. this is primarily how we can control oversteer and understeer, by adjusting the roll resistance (By changing spring rates) on the front and rear of the car.
2. Controling Body Roll
Body roll in its self is not nessisaily a bad thing. Camber change caused by body roll is. Now camber change can be tuned out by adjusting the static camber of the car. I know of many Autocrossers that run -2 degrees or more camber on their cars. now this is great for Low to mid speed Hard cornering (Autocross) it is not so good on a track(Probably to much camber) or the street (premature tire wear). ultimatly static camber (form a performance view) will be set by checking tire temps with a pyromiter. That way you can customize your camber settings to your driving. Camber change can also be controled by increacing the spring rates. But you probably only want to do this a little bit, as increaced spring rates may have other adverse implimantations due to road conditions (Thats next).
3. Keepin the tires stuck to the ground
As I said before, a tire in the air can make no traction. Simple. what this means is that although you want higher spring rates for controling weight and body roll, you can however have a to high of a spring rate for the surfaces you drive on. So the surfaces you race or drive on will have a great impact on what spring rates you can ultimatly run, the rougher the surface, the softer the springs. this is why race cars can run such high spring rates, because the tracks are much smoother then the roads we drive on.
4. Comfort
for a street driven car you have to consider some level of comfort right? This is where personal prefrence come in to play. onece a gain , softer springs = softer ride.
Now we can apply this to the suspensions that we know the spring rates on and have at least an Idea as to how it probably will handle.
here are the spring rates of some of the suspeinsions that are availble to our cars.
Tein:
Super Street (EM2/ES1) 336F/448R
Flex (EP3) 448f/559R
Flex (DC5) 448F/559R
Jic:
FLTA2 (DC5) 450F/506R
FLTA2 (EP3) 450F/506R
KW:
Type II (DC5,EP3) 350F/500R
so with these # we can get some Idea as to how each set up will perform.
Well start by finding the Total spring rates of each setup, this will give us an Idea as to haw "harsh" the ride will be from each set up, aswell as how much body roll to expect from each setup (vaguely ). (#4 Comfort, #2 Body roll and #3 Tires stuck to ground)
Tein:
SS (EM2/ES1) 784
Flex (EP3/DC5) 1007
Jic:
FLTA2 (DC5/EP3) 956
KW
Type II (DC5/EP3) 850
Conclusion: it appears to me that the SS will give you the niceset ride comfort wise while the Flex will be the roughest. as far as body roll, the opposite occurs, flex will have the least while the ss will have the most.
now we'll look at % of spring rates front to rear, this will give us an Idea as to how each setup will handle (which ones will reduce understeer the most, possibly to the point of oversteer)
(percentages are approximate)
Tein:
SS (EM2/ES1) 42.85%F/57.14%R
Flex (EP3/DC5) 44.48%F/55.51%R
Jic:
FLTA2 (DC5/EP3) 47.07%F/52.95%R
KW
Type II (DC5/EP3) 41.17%F/58.82%R
Conclusion: by looking at the Spring rate percenatges, you can get a look at which one will Mostlikely reduce understeer the most (the Higher the % rear = more weigh transfered to the back durring a turn = less understeer) By the Numbers it appears that the KW's will reduce understeer the most, then the SS, Flex, and last JIC. So dosn't this mean that the KW's and Tein SS will handle better then both the Flex and Jic setups????!!!!! Possibly, but more then likly not. THe reason they Probably will not handle as well as the Jic or Flex setups deals with what we talked about earlier. BODY ROLL/Camber Change!!
By the Numbers
Tein SS
22.14% weaker then Tein Flex
17.99% weaker then Jic FLTA2
7.76% weaker then KW Type II
KW Type II
15.59% weaker then Tein Flex
11.08% weaker the Jic FLTA2
Jic FLTA2
5.06% weaker then Tein Flex
so what this shows is that although both the Tein SS and the KW Type II have the largest % of spring rates on the rear, they also have the weakest spring rates overall. this in turn means more body roll in total, and thus more camber change which equals less total traction.
Finally the end:
I would say this about the different set ups
1. the Tein SS will give you the most comfortable ride with vastly improved handling over stock.
2. KW's Type II will handle better then the SS's and possibly handle as well as the Jics or Flex setups due to its High Rear % spring rate. This set up may prove to be the best autocross setup currently, and if tied to the right set of Anti-Rollbars(To get the overall roll resistance up) may prove to be better then the Jic and Flex setups. Also if KW does put out the Type III dampiner for our cars that may put it well over the top. (Having adjustible camber would help too. Hit hint )
3. both the Jic FLTA2 and Teins Flex dampiners will perform well, however I feel that the Flex system will do better at autocross where the FLTA2 might be better for track days.
there are other things that may sway people to one suspension vs another like Camber plates or Rebound/compression adjustment.
In the end, we really will not know which is really better, untill some one goes out and tests each setup, but by just the #'s we can get a peak in to how each one might handle.
thats it, Im done.
I hope with this information, will help you in your decision.
Last edited by jedo; Sep 10, 2003 at 02:41 PM.


