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02 honda civc, drive on local first 10 minutes have no issue, then start to feel the constant vibration (like twice per second) on wheel, even without brake it. If I tried to push brake, the vibration seems more forceful. And the longer I drive (like 30 minutes), vibration got more forceful. I didn't smell any brake burn. However I smell the brake burn 2-3 times (and can feel the heat when near the front right tire) in past 3 months, which doesn't happened often.

I suspect the right front caliper malfunction (purchased from advanced auto part), and intend to change that and don't plan to change left front caliper.

I have some questions hoping your can help with

1) last time I checked (1 months ago), rotor and pad looks ok. I wonder if it's Ok to just change right front caliper? As long as the vibration go away, I am happy. One of the reason I am reluctant to touch left tire -- the shop who did my last brake job over-tight the nug nut, damaging one nug nut on the left front wheel, and I hesitate to touch it unless absolutely necessary.

2) for the caliper bolt, do I need to apply red Loctite or anti-freeze? I have some left-over anti-freeze when replace o2 sensor. I did some search, it seems like some people don't use it, some use red Loctite (most post I found seems to be GM car), some use anti-freeze.

3) should I use "silicone-based brake lubricant" between some contact points?
something like this:
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...m=brake+grease

4) if you happened to know, what's the torque specs for tire nug nuts, and caliper bolt?
for some reaseon, I didn't see it in honda manual. I hope I can find a chilton repair manual for that information.

Thanks a ton in advance!

 
Rep Power: 230

The Caliper shouldn't cause vibration.

The caliper just clamps down the pads to the rotor.

Brake vibration is usually rotor related; possibly pad related if they are miss shaped or damaged in an odd way.

-also check that the tires are balanced because it sounds like the issue happens when you are not braking.

 
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Hi mac25,

Thank you for your reply.

Since the vibration seems happened after 10 min drive, I'd thought it might be related to something heat up (after 10 minutes) ?

when drive on highway and I let hands free, the car seems straight, is that a good indicator tire balance should be fine?

Thanks again for your help!

 
Rep Power: 519

Make sure it's not a collapsed brake hose or something else keeping the one brake caliper stuck on.

A dragging brake can and will cause vibration while driving, after the rotor has had time to become severely overheated.
It may drive and brake smoothly again while it's relatively cool too.

The dragging brake keeps dragging regardless of whether or not your foot is on the brake pedal, so it's generating more and more heat as long as you keep moving. I've seen rotors glowing bright yellow-red like the freekin sun, and that's super bad.

It may need a fresh rotor along with the caliper and pad set, because the pads have been COOKED and the adhesive holding the friction lining to the steel plate may be compromised. Better safe than sorry IMO.



It's anti-SEIZE and no, neither are really necessary IMO---but a little anti seize on the threads might be worthwhile if you are in the rust belt.

I use silicone grease on the slide pins (and freshly ground bare cat iron), and I use Moly grease (MoS2) on pad contact points.

Keep looking, the real Honda manuals have the info.
Lug nuts are 80 ft-lb.
IDK about the others off the top of my head.



No.
If it drives in a straight line, the wheel alignment is evaluated as "reasonable".

Tire imbalance would cause shaking, intensity increases the faster you go. Do not confuse it with the current brake vibration issue though. Fix brake issues first, then see how it drives.

 
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Hello ezone,

Thank you very much for your detail response.
One thing I am puzzled--- if there is dragging brake, I'd expect the smell of burn brake pad & hot wheel/tire after 30 min driving. I indeed notice the smell and heat 2-3 times in past 3 months. But most of time particularly recently, I didn't notice the smell or heat. is it odd?

Thanks again for all your help

 
Rep Power: 519

Weird.....randomly intermittent issue?
Not paying attention after every drive?

I wouldn't expect the burned brake smell when it's not screaming hot.

Get it to act up then prove it's not something other than the caliper hung up?


Gotta run. Sammiches is calling.

 
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haha, hope it's a good Sammiches

I will try to pay attention in next couple of days ：）

 
Rep Power: 230

To check for a seized caliper jack the car up with the wheels on and rotate them by hand; if one seems like the brake is on, it's seized.

 
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ahah, I will do it tomorrow.
a seized caliper is not necessarily associated with hot wheel/brake smell? let's say I drove the car every 30 miles one way for work.

 
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When my caliper seized, it would act totally normal until i got above 80 km/h, then i got the vibration, smell, and heat. So in town it wouldn't act up.

 
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I've encountered a few different ways the symptom manifests...

One might drag all the time and be pretty obvious

Another might not drag until it gets heated up (like a few stops in a row), then once it starts to drag it gets really hot really fast.

How about......Drags SOME of the time until it gets so hot it boils the brake fluid and you lost brake pedal.....then after you use someone elses' rear bumper to stop (OR use the parking brake to stop) and go to the gas station to clean your underwear, 30 minutes later the brakes have cooled off just enough to work NORMALLY the rest of the drive. No dragging at all. Until the next morning. Then this scenario repeats if you let it

(this really happened on my truck LOL...Could drive 5 miles to work and barely notice the drag. Go further than work....maybe 7 miles in and it's pulling and shaking hard. 9-10 miles.... my pedal went to the floor at a stop light. Go carefully to a shop and park, smoke was rolling out of the front wheelwells. Spent 30 minutes in that shop and then drive home, it drove very normally.)

 
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Hi Colin42, Thank you for your reply. I rarely drive 80, usually 70.

 
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Hi ezone,

Thank you for your reply. what you explained totally make sense!

 
Rep Power: 519

That's like 115 in Canadian

 
Rep Power: 223