Caliper Difficult to Move on Rear Disk Brakes
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Hello Folks,
I changed my front brake pads today on my 2002 Civic SI without a hitch.
Was going to change the rear pads but the piston in the caliper was quite a bit more difficult to move than the front pistons were.
I'm curious if this is normal.
Is there a trick to moving the rear pistons (since there is also the e-brake mechanism)?
The wear on the pads were completely symmetrical and the e-brake definitely engages the caliper.
Thanks for the advice.
I changed my front brake pads today on my 2002 Civic SI without a hitch.
Was going to change the rear pads but the piston in the caliper was quite a bit more difficult to move than the front pistons were.
I'm curious if this is normal.
Is there a trick to moving the rear pistons (since there is also the e-brake mechanism)?
The wear on the pads were completely symmetrical and the e-brake definitely engages the caliper.
Thanks for the advice.
#2
Re: Caliper Difficult to Move on Rear Disk Brakes
Hello Folks,
I changed my front brake pads today on my 2002 Civic SI without a hitch.
Was going to change the rear pads but the piston in the caliper was quite a bit more difficult to move than the front pistons were.
I'm curious if this is normal.
Is there a trick to moving the rear pistons (since there is also the e-brake mechanism)?
The wear on the pads were completely symmetrical and the e-brake definitely engages the caliper.
Thanks for the advice.
I changed my front brake pads today on my 2002 Civic SI without a hitch.
Was going to change the rear pads but the piston in the caliper was quite a bit more difficult to move than the front pistons were.
I'm curious if this is normal.
Is there a trick to moving the rear pistons (since there is also the e-brake mechanism)?
The wear on the pads were completely symmetrical and the e-brake definitely engages the caliper.
Thanks for the advice.
do you mean "remove"?
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I mean, the old pads are thinner than the new pads, so I have to "move" (I mean compress) the piston so that I can put the caliper back on over the new pads.
It was fairly easy to push/compress the front pistons, but the rear one doesn't seem as easy...
it's not stuck though, since the e-brake seems to make the caliper pinch.
It was fairly easy to push/compress the front pistons, but the rear one doesn't seem as easy...
it's not stuck though, since the e-brake seems to make the caliper pinch.
#4
Re: Caliper Difficult to Move on Rear Disk Brakes
I mean, the old pads are thinner than the new pads, so I have to "move" (I mean compress) the piston so that I can put the caliper back on over the new pads.
It was fairly easy to push/compress the front pistons, but the rear one doesn't seem as easy...
it's not stuck though, since the e-brake seems to make the caliper pinch.
It was fairly easy to push/compress the front pistons, but the rear one doesn't seem as easy...
it's not stuck though, since the e-brake seems to make the caliper pinch.
you should be compressing the piston back into the caliper BEFORE you remove the caliper....use a big c-clamp
now that you have it off....reinstall the old pad on the piston side and use a c-clamp on the pad and on the outside of the caliper to compress the piston
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it's just that the back is much more difficult. Does this indicate a problem, or is there a trick (given that the e-brake operates the rear piston as well)?
#6
Re: Caliper Difficult to Move on Rear Disk Brakes
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Re: Caliper Difficult to Move on Rear Disk Brakes
Rear pistons must screw in.
Make sure to clock the notches in the piston to the correct locations, they MUST clear the dowel pin sticking out of the back of the pad, so the piston seats flat against the back of the brake pad.
If you don't get this right, the piston will push on just the pin and the 'top' of the pad will wear at a bad angle.
Make sure to clock the notches in the piston to the correct locations, they MUST clear the dowel pin sticking out of the back of the pad, so the piston seats flat against the back of the brake pad.
If you don't get this right, the piston will push on just the pin and the 'top' of the pad will wear at a bad angle.
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Rear pistons must screw in.
Make sure to clock the notches in the piston to the correct locations, they MUST clear the dowel pin sticking out of the back of the pad, so the piston seats flat against the back of the brake pad.
If you don't get this right, the piston will push on just the pin and the 'top' of the pad will wear at a bad angle.
Make sure to clock the notches in the piston to the correct locations, they MUST clear the dowel pin sticking out of the back of the pad, so the piston seats flat against the back of the brake pad.
If you don't get this right, the piston will push on just the pin and the 'top' of the pad will wear at a bad angle.
thank you!