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ok...i looked for a DIY on changing my brake pads.... and this is it...http://www.7thgencivic.com/forums/sh...ght=diy+brakes...
well...i took out my old pads and put in 2 new ones on the driver's side...but the problem is...the caliper won't fit into the rotor now...there's just about 1/4 inch space between the new pads....any way i can increase the space between them?? or am i doing something wrong????

 
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Use a c-clamp and push the piston back in.

This step
"OPTIONAL STEP NUMBER THREE:

1. Make sure the brakes are not depressed (duh!)

2. Use a vise-clamp to push the piston in if you do not have enough clearance to put the caliper back onto the rotor with the new brake pads in."

 
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Get a 4" C-clamp, put the old pad back on the inside and push the piston back in. Or open the bleeder valve, and push the piston back in by hand. You'll have to re-bleed the system if you do the latter.

 
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take of the brake fluid cap, get a c-clamp or a caliper piston clamp and push the piston back in using the old pad. Should be fine after that, pretty simple!!

 
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I've always taken off the cap on the fluid resovoir before pushing in the piston on past cars. C-clamps work well, or you could use a large screw driver or something as a lever. Just don't cut/scratch/mess up anything with the screwdriver method.

 
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don't have a C-clamp....so i decided to blled the brake fluid...do i just take the cap off at the end and unscrew it? it's just dripping....how long do i have to wait??

 
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how much force is needed to push in the caliper with a c-clamp? is it an insane amount? or would it be easier to just use the bleeding method ?

 
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You still have to push the piston back in. Use your hand.

 
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C-clamp method is easier + less messy.

 
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ok...damn....i got the driver's side done....but the passenger side is messed up....i tried to bleed the brake fluid and push the piston...but the piston won't budge....i waited until all the fluid came out...but still it won't go in....could this be the reason why whenever i drive my car, there was a squeeking sound coming from my passenger side? even when i was going backwards...there would be a scratching some coming from there. or even when i was driving normally, there would be a scratching sound whenever i DIDN'T press on the brakes...any easy way to fix the piston?? or am i doomed and need to go to a shop???

 
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This is getting rediculous, just borrow a c-clamp and take off the brake fluid cover, push it in! What is the problem, now you got to bleed the brakes!! WOW!!

 
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civydcex, that's what i did. i bleed the fluid and everything....i tried to push it in, but it won't budge. the other side went in easily, the other side won't. so i was asking if the piston could go wrong.

 
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your using a c clamp?

 
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U need a C-Clamp to push the piston in, by hand is too hard. Just make sure you take the lid off the res. Then take the C-clamp and put it in the center of the calpier piston and turn it clockwise, Draining the fluid through the bleeder is a mess, this is much more easier.

 
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you dont need to take of the brake fill cap to push in the piston in. if that what these guys are telling you to do in fact its bad to leave it off for a period of time because brake fluid absorbs moisture witch meens you will have water in your brake lines thats one of the reasons why your suposed to do brake fluid flushes every so ofton

 
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First off, you have to know exactly what you are doing before you start fooling around with your car, especially your brakes. Secondly, it sounds like you are going to have to take it into a shop to make sure you didn't mess anything up to bad.

 
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We're saying take off the cap for as long as it takes to push the piston back in the caliper. I doubt it will absorb much moisture in 5 or 10 minutes. BTW, FullGrown, you said your car squeeked whenever it was moving, and sounded like brakes rubbing?? Did it pull one way or the other when you hit the brakes?? If you have the cap off the resovoir, and/or the valve on the caliper open, it the piston should go back in with a little force. If it's impossible to move, and you did the same with this one as the other one, your caliper may be seized up or something. If you can't get it to go back in, you're prolly gonna have to get it towed someone, or find someone to come over and do it for you. It may be the car, and not you, that's the problem on that one side, if you managed to finally get the piston on the other side back in.

 
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everything seems fine...i guess i just need the c-clamp to push in the piston. too bad today is Labor's Day and all the stores close early today. maybe tomorrow or so....

ambulancemonkee...yeah, whenever i'm driving or going in reverse, it'll squeal. didn't notice car leaning towards one way or not...and when i took off the cap from the brake fluid reservoir, the driver's side piston went in easily, but the passenger side (where all the sound is coming from) was impossible to push in. could it be seized up? any way i can fix that? or do i have to take it to the shop.

 
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In my experience, one needs a new caliper when it seizes. I'm not aware of any way to fix it. Possibly, it could be rebuilt, but I wouldn't bother. Faster and probably about the same cost to just replace. As far as actually replacing the caliper, I can't really help with a DIY. It sounds like you're new to fixing brakes, and I wouldn't experiment with the only thing keeping your car from hitting any number of hard, stationary objects. You're probably going to have to find a friend/co-worker with experience in this area that can come over and help, or put it back together enough that you can at least roll the car around and have it towed to a shop. The install of the new caliper, which also requires bleeding the brakes, will prolly cost you about $200. Let us know how this turns out for you. Good luck.

 
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i have a feeling that you shouldn't be changing your brake pads by yourself in the first place.

learn on a friends car. that's what i did

 
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Who are you speaking to? You may not need to take it off but in the case of there being to much pressure on the rotor to remove the caliper, or to much pressure being applied to the piston this will relieve some pressure. The period of time that this takes surely will not pollute your brake fluid with water. Come on man did you think i ment leave it off for good? Maybe you should help the guy instead of correcting everyone's advice!!! Do you know something we dont?

 
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you're refering to vaccuum pressure...there isn't any reason to take the cap off...period. HYGROSCOPIC FLUID absorbs moisture, water, liquids. it doesn't matter if it is off for 5 seconds or 5 minutes its gonna absorb moisture maybe not a noticable amount but it's gonna be there.

when you're changing your front pads it is very wise to change the rotors too,because the rotors will keep the "face" of the old pads on them and they will begin to get grooves in them. doesn't happen overnight but ti will happen soon enough.....

to the problem at hand, get a prybar like item (read metal rod) and hold the caliper tight in one hand or brace yourself against it while it's in your hand and rest the rod at the piston and the edge of the rod on that "m" outer side of the caliper and try to force it in that way if you don't have the c-clamp....

the reason you're hearing squeaking is most likely a bushing gone bad from dry-rot or just average lifetime use.

to fix the problem on the passenger side (it would have been a little better to have done the passenger side first but whatever{best to work your way from the farthest brake line component to the closest to the master clinder})

just use the c-clamp or rod to depress teh piston back into the sleeve. no it is not frozen or else you would have noticed it driving (trust me YOU WOULD'VE NOTICED)

as for cracking the bleeders open on each caliper. you're going to need to re-bleed the 2 rear drums and the 2 front calipers (it's easy but I really would suggest either taking it to a shop or finding a friend who is knowledgable on this)

hope this helps.

 
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Not for nothing but I feel like it helps and have always done it. I dont need to hear about moisture in my brake fluid, come on. This was a post to help someone not show off useless knowledge about moisture absorbing fluids. But more power to you for knowing so much

I wouldnt do it if not neccessary, but in my opinion its worth a shot

 
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first this wasn't directed at you, this was to help out full-grown, because he is always asking for help/input so I figured I'd do like everyone else.

second, it's not my problem you're un-educated and make minutely brash decisions concerning your vehicle maintenance, don't come on here with your
head-stuck-up-your-***-attitude. give respect to earn respect.

END OF this side note back on topic now.

 
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And this thread was going so well. For a while, it was actually constructive, before it turned into a pissing match. Lets not get into this, and instead let this one continue to be helpful for the little guy.

 
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Buy a Haynes Repair Manual for your car, review it and it should solve your problem

 
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there is a link actually on the DIY sections where you can d/l the entire 7th gen manual....but I beleive F/g already has it....if I'm not mistaken

 
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yeah...i have the manual at my other computer at school...which is 130 miles away from here...

 
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First of all, ****, i dont need your respect, EVER!!! I'll come on here with the same attitude every time, which isnt negative just amazed at the amount of help it took to get the brakes done. Just trying to help and thought it was way to involved for a brake pad swap. Now if he had the right tools i guarentee it would of got done right, and fast. Now I know your the foremost expert on brake fluid but if taking the brake cap off absorbs moisture then what about when you open the bottle itself, got to absorb around the same amount as when the caps of the brake fluid, Right!!?I didnt join this site to here people tell me i got to earn respect to give advice!! If he doesnt want it thats fine, but for you to quote me then say it wasnt directed at me is a head-up-your own *** move!! And dont ever call me uneducated on my vehicals maitnence, I have been taking care of my vehicals mait. for years, fixing my own cars, actually worked as a brake tech for a few years straight out of high school, doing brake jobs! So kiss my grits punk, i have respect from friends and family, thats all i need. But admit it may be hard to sleep tonight knowing i may have gotten moisture in all the brake lines i ever worked on!! F*** it im going to bed. By the way moisture boy, tell me i got to earn respect to get it one more time. This guys like my father This site is good, people like you make it suck, by popping your dumb *** mouth off


Your right, i give in to the pissing match he can have it.

 
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I think he's confused about what "bleeding the brakes" is. Its not like how I think you are reading it. You dont let all the break fluid just drip out and your done. I started out by sucking the old fluid out of the resiviour and putting fresh fluid in. Make sure while you are doing this that the level doesnt get too low otherwise you'll pull air into your lines. What you do is have somone push on the brake pedal and while they have that compressed you loosen the bleeder valve and brake fluid will shoot out depending how much you loosen it. Once no more comes out you tighten the valve and have the person let off the pedal. Its very important that they dont let off untill you have tightened it otherwise you get air in your lines and braking will not work so well. You repeat this over and over untill the break fluid comes out clean then move onto the next caliper or drum. And about the c-clamp.... I say just go get one cuz you'll probably use it in the future too so you might as well buy one now. Good luck and pm me if you have any questions.