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ok. just went to change my brake hose to steel braided ones n also get e brake fluid changed. however, it din work. my pedals kept sinking into e floorboard n my rear brakes doesnt seemed to hold... im turbo charged.any links or solutions? desperate.

 
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Turbo is irrelevant, so this should be moved to wheels and brakes.
Anyways, you need to bleed the lines. If you did it once, do it again. Maybe 3 or 4 times to make sure all the air is out.
If you let the MC run dry in the process, then you need to bench bleed it then rebleed the system again.

 
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okay the e brake runs on a cable (no fluid) so i dont know what you did but after replacing the lines did you bleed the system of bubbles. if you didnt that is why you have no pedal

 
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yea sounds like you did not bleed the system or you let air into it by changing the lines and letting it go dry.

 
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hmmm.so wat am i suppose to do now to salvage? thanks@!

 
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wat wat do u mean by bench bleed? any stp by step idiots guide for now? kinda desperate! thanks u ppl

 
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damn dude lol dont mess with brakes unless you know what you are doing lol they are kinda important. Have a buddy step on the pedal and hold it. Crack the bleeder screw on a caliper or wheel cylinder. The pedal will go down to the floor. Close the bleeder screw and let up on the pedal. Keep doing this at each corner of the car till only fluid comes out. Make sure you keep an eye on the fluid while you do this. It might need to be filled again depending on how much came out before. The wheel cylinder would be in back if you have rear drums. I havent bled the brakes in my car but typically the bleeders are on the back side of the drum, and either on top or in back of the caliper. If they are stuck, get some PB blaster spray em and let em sit. Find yourself a set of flare nut wrenchs and be careful. It sucks if you break em off.

 
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damn it! im jus wondering if the mech knows his stuffs. oo jesus..... im real screwed... and e brake fluid ive got aint cheap man. i should ask him to compensate some eh? pisseddd..... what could go wrong? i think they did the standard bleed method.

 
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the ebrake doesnt use brake fluid. the ebrake is operated by a cable connected to the rear brake shoes. When you pull it, it will pull the brake shoes against the drums.

Now as for the MC, when I replaced my calipers, I removed the calipers and let the lines leak out all the fluid while I went and purhcased new ones and did run the MC dry and didnt have a problem when bleeding, so I dont necessarily see a need to bench bleed it unless its a new unit being installed. Bench bleeding is bleeding the MC before installing it. Usually you add brake fluid to it, and push the piston in several times to remove all the air from it and then install it on the car. Those can easily trap air in it causing problems.

Now when you installed your lines, did you make sure each connection was tight? if one is loose, it could be sucking in air as you bleed. And what process did you use to bleed them. Because if you didnt do it right, then they arent bleed properly.

 
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ok. the mech just replaced my standard hoses with steel braided ones and replace all the brake fluid. and it just went sinking. so can u guys tell me what should i tell him to do to recitfy the problem. damn it..... im just so pissed. a mech not knowing how to do car stuffs. what an irony.
ok. first. make sure all connections are tight?...
den? gosh. i wanna kill some1. haha

 
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Geese dude its not complicated, the brakes need to be bled, plain and simple. Its pretty much the first thing a person learns when doing a brake job or something of this nature. Air will compress, hence the reason you dont want it in your lines. Brake fluid doesnt compress, meaning when you step on the brakes the pedal is connected to the master cylinder. When you push on the pedal the master cylinder pushes the fluid through the lines into the pistons in your calipers and to your wheel cylinders(assuming you have rear drum brakes). If there is air in the lines it will compress, basically disabling your brakes. If your mechanic cant get in the car a TELL whats wrong then he is not a mechanic. While your at it tell him to check the flux capacitor.

 
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I have a question, why is that people come on line that speak english, yet can't type a coherent sentence to save their life?

anyways if you are going to bleed it yourself (which judging you on your lack of linguistic skills, I would strongly suggest against) start at farthest wheel from MC in our case it is the p.r tire, then d.r then p.f. then d.f