Rep Power: 289

hopefully I didnt make a mistake by buying these pads. All of a sudden my aem brake pads wore out. Now my brakes squeel like a **** telling me to change the pads or Ill scratch out the rotor type of thing. So I look for pads asap at auto zone and all they carry are cheap brands like robessos or somethiing like that, but they do come with lifetime warranty. I wanted to go with something like hawk, axxis, ebc. I came accross axxis ultimate ceramic pads, paid like 50 including tax for them. ANyone know if these pads are good? I know my friend uses them. I will never go with AEM brand pads again. Maybe I was abusing my brakes, but still, the squeeking sound is loud and came on all of a sudden. I know its supposed to make that sound to let the driver know the brakes should be fixed but this one made crazy sounds. Anyways, Im going to change my pads, anyone have any info on these pads let me know.

 
Rep Power: 0

rebestess are good pads for the money dude, not to sure about axxis, but when i used rebestess they took all the abuse i could dish out. They probably wouldnt be good for autoX, but for street driving they worked well, and were dirt cheap.

 
Rep Power: 0

Axxis are crap from what I hear... let us know if they actually work out well...

 
Rep Power: 289

i heard only good things about axxis. also, the rebestess was the same price as the axxis, but I just went with the axxis one. They were both ceramic. Ill let you guys know if axxis is good, but I will never go with AEM again. They wear hella fast. One month of hard breaking/driving will tear the aems apart.

 
Rep Power: 289

sucks because I really loved the aem pads, they work well but wear way faster than any pads I have used.

 
Rep Power: 412

I have axxis pads. Good pads with good grip. However, they are DUSTY. I hope you don't plan on keeping the clear coat clean on your rims, because it won't stay that way.

 
Rep Power: 424

They make a dust storm, but they've never let me down on the track.

 
Rep Power: 289

ok, i tried this diy. let me tell you, wow the diy is some bs diy. i wasted my whole day and yet still no luck. whoever made that diy you need to explain better dude.

ok, so back to the point, im stuck, i got everything out, I just need to know how to make the pads fit because the caliper has a valve thats out. I read and read and still no clear answers to making the valve go back in so new pads can fit. My old pads fit but not new ones. ANyone explain how to push the valve in so that I can fit my brand spanking new pads? I dont have much tools.

 
Rep Power: 0

whoa dude... calm down.

1) get a c-clamp or some type of hand-held vise.
2) grab one of your old pads and use it to protect the piston (valve thing) from getting gouged.
3) unscrew the cap to your brake fluid resovoir.
4) use the clamp/vise to squeeze the piston back in place being careful not to mess up the nice flat face of the piston :-)

in-between every couple turns of the clamp/vise you may want to take a look at your resovoir to make sure it's not overflowing brake fluid all over the place.

hope this helps.

ps. if you don't have the right tools for the job, and you plan on doing the maintenance yourself, you may want to consider investing the $5 in a set of clamps. Sears.com sells a 3" c-clamp for $4.49

EtDiGiTaLiS.

 
Rep Power: 0

well, first off i have the axxis ultimates and the only bad thing about them is the crazy amount of dust. but anyways. i used the old pad along w/ a caliper depresser thing (from pepboys) and was able to push the valve back into a position where the new caliper can fit in.

 
Rep Power: 289

so I did everything but this. so I get a c-clamp which I still dont know wtf this is. Then use brake pad to secure the valve. unscrew the black plastic thingy (what is this for)? and then squeeze the valve back in place. is this correct?

 
Rep Power: 289

so this is the c-clamp u guys are talking about right?


also why do I have to take off the black plastic peice that holds the oil. The one that looks like a valve stem right...

If this clamp works, why couldnt I just put the caliper on the ground and step on it =X

 
Rep Power: 283

If you need help I can help you. I have the tools for the job. I'm free all day tomorrow(wednesday).

 
Rep Power: 0

the plastic/rubber nipple you take off is so you can untighten the bleed screw so when you depress the piston, brake fluid can come out.

 
Rep Power: 289

damn took my freaggin hours to do it. My other dude showed me a different way and it seems as if his way is right. Ill I did was took a screw driver and stuck it in between the caliper and pushed the used brake pad where the piston was. One of them was easy but the other one was hard. Tooke me a good couple hours. It was my first time, now I know it will take 30 mins or less.

heres pix. whoever knows if my rotor is on right let me know please. I think they are starting to warp. NEver again aem pads. Look at the pix of the aem nissin pads after a month. Compared to the axxis brand new pads. I did feel a little less pedal effort from the axxis pads, but I think this is because the axxis pads were smaller but thicker while the aem pads were wider but thinner.


ALso can someone let me know if my rotors are on the right way. I didnt remember if it mattered but someone here said the pads would wear out faster, so maybe that could of triggered the aem pads to wear so fast.

the pic of the rotor is on the driver side..

 
Rep Power: 323

you have the wrong rotor on the wrong side this is why the pads wore out quick. You will need to switch those or you will have the same problem.

 
Rep Power: 289

actually, I switched it following the DIY. I thought those were the right sides.

 
Rep Power: 289

here is the correct way and thats the way I did it.

 
Rep Power: 0

have u tried Hawk pads? i had them and they were really good with my aem big brake kit. (which are on sale btw )

 
Rep Power: 323

that pic is backwards also.

 
Rep Power: 289

I got it done already, but I do need help on my camber kit.

 
Rep Power: 289

so djmota you sure my **** is on the wrong way?

 
Rep Power: 323

yup. it also explains why the pads you got wore out so quickly. Do a search thru members rides and look at some pics for proof. I also have slotted rotors and aem pads facing the opposite way your are with over 30.000 miles on them with no wear problems.

 
Rep Power: 0

mmm... camber...
eyeball it to get it roadworthy then pay a pro for a computer alignment

EtDiGiTaLiS.

 
Rep Power: 289

sorry, the pic I have of the rotor is on the right way. If you see the rotors up close they are warped like a ****. thats like after couple months of usage. The pics shows the rotors switched around already. Yesterday it was the other way around. I drove maybe 30 miles today and the warping went away so this is the right way.