Rep Power: 452

What components do you need to bench bleed prior to installation? I have heard that the master cylinder needs to be bench bleed before install, anything else? Calipers, wheel cylinders? Or is it a neccessary thing to bench bleed any of thses products.

 
Rep Power: 0

You only need to bench bleed a master cylinder when installing a new one or if you have allowed it to run dry. Calipers and wheel cylinders bleed nearly instantaneously when you push fluid through the lines and past the bleed screw.

 
Rep Power: 327

Assuming your familar with proper bleeding procedure, Only the master cyl will need(not alwasys NEEDED) bench bleed. As for the wheel cyl, calipers. The best and easiest way is once they are installed is to open the bleeders and let the fluid drip out while keeping the master cyl full. This is how we normally do it at work for 3 reasons. #1 it ensures that your system is cleaned out of all the old fluid. #2 it will push out most of the air in the process #3 allows us to work on other cars while it cleans out the system !

 
Rep Power: 452

If I install new calipers or wheel cylinders, couldnt I just install them in reverse order of removal, and then bleed the brakes?

But in what your saying, how long do you let fluid drip out of the bleed screw? What is better in your way then just bleeding the brakes after normal installation?

 
Rep Power: 0

I've done both gravity as well as pedal pump and bleed/flush. I favour the pump and bleed method using a clear tube inserted in a container of brake fluid since that minimizes the time the brake system is open to moisture in the air. It also forces out the air in the line and cylinders, thus eliminating any guess work as to whether or not you got out all the air. The pump and bleed method requiers two people however. There are also devices called speedbleeder screws www.speedbleeder.com which are one way bleed screws. This is only useful if you change your brake fluid regularly on one vehicle. I recommend a hand pump device for shop use as the speedbleeders only work on one vehicle by yourself. My other hang up about the Speedbleeder is that it's an aftermarket brake component made by an individual person. I'd rather purchase a part manufactured by a major brake parts manufacturer since the brake lines go up to thousands of psi in pressure and I'm suspicious as to whether the speedbleeders are properly tested. I also would rather have a major corporation to deal with in case something goes wrong with the bleed screw.

 
Rep Power: 310

I bought a MityVac brake bleeding kit for 35 bucks. It a hand vacuum pump that you attach the bleeder and suck out all the old fluid and air until you see clear stuff appear. Takes all the guess work out of bleeding the liines.

 
Rep Power: 327

I wouldnt say BETTER per say, but more as in easy, and if its a EX car with ABS brakes doing it this way until you see clear fluid dripping at each corner will ensure that you have flushed out all the old fluid. Doing it this way can also minimize risk of over stroking the master cyl. Lot of people when bleeding brakes seem to push the pedal to the floor when thier buddy opens the bleeder. Now on a brand new car this prolly aint a big deal but on a car with miles on it you will be pushing the master cyl psiton in to a section of the bore it dont normally run in. So by gravity bleeding you remove prolly 95% of the air from the system, and when you do the pedal pump bleed method( whats most commonly done) to remove the last 5% of air that may be trapped, it's that much less risk of over stroking the master cyl. By far the best way would be to power bleed/vacum bleed IF you have the equipment. Problem is most people dont have the equipment to do this. Heh, we have the equipment at work but have found that its quicker/easier to just let the car gravity drip as we either work a few minutes cleaning up our tools/working on another car/ answering the phone when it rings for the 100th time that hour My suggestion try them alland do what works best for YOU!

 
Rep Power: 380

Power Bleeder.. $50
http://www.gofastlab.com/s2ki/produc...9&cat=3&page=1

have fun!

 
Rep Power: 0

i just went from RR/RL/FR/FL and bled mine.. sucks i have 4 bleeders per caliper in front.front i had to look up which way the lins went so i started w/ "furthest"

i thyink i did it right... i did until liquid came out.. and no air 2 times per bleeder... 3/5 pumps per time...

the fluid that came out was nasty green/brown tho and new stuff was clear.. i guess i should bled until i saw new stuff come thru.. does that hurt it?


i didnt do it all the way cause on second to last the bleeder facs up and my tube popped off and i got shot in the face... so i ultimately hurried up on last one and ran inside for a 4 hour flushing of my eyes.. that stuff burns..

oh well does it sound like i did mine right?

onyl thing is now when i turn sharp and use brakes.. the back seem to grab more (back feels to pull the front (slower))