Weight of Wheels...
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TUCKIN 19s
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Yeah I thought that was pretty good, considering how strong they are supposed to be! But I didnt know...
No pics or revieling of what rims till they come, I put them on, and take pics (which will of course happen the day, actually the SECOND, i get them
) Though, a couple people do know from IMs...
Anymore opinions on rims weights?
No pics or revieling of what rims till they come, I put them on, and take pics (which will of course happen the day, actually the SECOND, i get them
) Though, a couple people do know from IMs...Anymore opinions on rims weights?
Autocross Junky
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If your runing 19s then you shouldnt worry about the weight.. Because a 19 would need to weigh approximatly 12 LBS to have the same Inertia of the stock Steel 15, that weighs 20lbs....
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TUCKIN 19s
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Originally Posted by Zzyzx
If your runing 19s then you shouldnt worry about the weight.. Because a 19 would need to weigh approximatly 12 LBS to have the same Inertia of the stock Steel 15, that weighs 20lbs....
waittttttt...
Z, you said what?
"a 19 would need to weigh approximatly 12 LBS to have the same Inertia of the stock Steel 15, that weighs 20lbs...."
can you explain that again?
If my new rims are 17 with 15-16lbs of weight....is that good or bad? (compared to the weight of mystock steelies right now)
Z, you said what?
"a 19 would need to weigh approximatly 12 LBS to have the same Inertia of the stock Steel 15, that weighs 20lbs...."
can you explain that again?
If my new rims are 17 with 15-16lbs of weight....is that good or bad? (compared to the weight of mystock steelies right now)
www.wheelsweight.net got tons of wheel weights.
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TUCKIN 19s
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Originally Posted by HyaBoosta
www.wheelsweight.net got tons of wheel weights.
Autocross Junky
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Rep Power: 381 Its physics, Bascially the farther a weight is from the center of rotation the harder it is to get that weight to spin.... Meaning even if a wheel stays the same weight, if you make it bigger (15 to a 18 for example) that wheels inertia increases.
The basic formula for estimating this increase goes like this.. I=m(r^2)
I = Inertia
M= Mass (weight)
r = Radius
So a stock steel wheel (20 LBS @ 15") has an aproximat inertia of 4500 N. and a 20Lb 19 has an aproximat Inertia of 7220, to break that down in to more understandable numbers, 2k2EXCOUPE has basically added 12LBS to his total rotational weight. (Per Wheel) for a grand total of adding 48LBs added to the car in wheels alone.
Your 17s have an approximat Inertia of somewhere between 4335 and 4624, so you havent really changed the overall Inertia of the wheel Vs stock.
The basic formula for estimating this increase goes like this.. I=m(r^2)
I = Inertia
M= Mass (weight)
r = Radius
So a stock steel wheel (20 LBS @ 15") has an aproximat inertia of 4500 N. and a 20Lb 19 has an aproximat Inertia of 7220, to break that down in to more understandable numbers, 2k2EXCOUPE has basically added 12LBS to his total rotational weight. (Per Wheel) for a grand total of adding 48LBs added to the car in wheels alone.
Your 17s have an approximat Inertia of somewhere between 4335 and 4624, so you havent really changed the overall Inertia of the wheel Vs stock.
Autocross Junky
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Originally Posted by 2k2EXCOUPE
Im not worried by any means, I could care less about speed when driving a Civic, I was just curious.
This doesnt realy affect speed, but it does affect acceleration and Braking.
ooops left out the S www.wheelweights.net
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Originally Posted by Zzyzx
This doesnt realy affect speed, but it does affect acceleration and Braking.
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Rep Power: 381 ^^ big brake kits are only nessisary if you are overheating the brakes, They have Very little to do with actual Stoping distances... To decrease stoping distances you should be looking at 2 parts, 1: your tires. and 2: the pad compound you are using. Tires being the more important of the two.
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TUCKIN 19s
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Originally Posted by Zzyzx
^^ big brake kits are only nessisary if you are overheating the brakes, They have Very little to do with actual Stoping distances... To decrease stoping distances you should be looking at 2 parts, 1: your tires. and 2: the pad compound you are using. Tires being the more important of the two.
I am not cheap with tires so its not like im putting shitty tires on them or anything, the new ones will be running Falken Azeni's, and im running Yoko ES100's right now.
I am running Powerslot slotted rotors and AEM pads currently for brakes and they really suck....Dont stop with ****, think its the pads?
I dunno I might be totally wrong about it all...
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Rep Power: 381 How do you mean "they dont stop with ****"? Is it a sponge like pedal feel? If it is, then you need to bleed the brakes. (If you cant remember the last time the brakes were Blead the do so now.) Otherwise I'd be looking to get a different pad. The AEM/nissin pad is a good allaround Street pad but it is not a high performance pad!!! For street use Look at Hawk HP+ or HPS (HP+ have a Higher Friction Level) Or Axxis Ultamates.
Contrary to popular belief, Big brake kits do Very little to actually Decrease braking distances. Their real Purpose is to deal with heat. They allow you to run the brakes Harder Longer before they overheat and Fade. So if you arn't currently overheating the brakes then they arent worth the $$ or added rotational mass.
Contrary to popular belief, Big brake kits do Very little to actually Decrease braking distances. Their real Purpose is to deal with heat. They allow you to run the brakes Harder Longer before they overheat and Fade. So if you arn't currently overheating the brakes then they arent worth the $$ or added rotational mass.
Last edited by Zzyzx; Jun 7, 2004 at 04:31 PM.
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TUCKIN 19s
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Rep Power: 321 Haha alright. Ive never blead the brakes... i dont know how??
Plus they kinda squeek a little bit and make funny noises sometimes...
Plus, a big brake would look good i think cause i use my car for shows and with 19s, my rotors will look TINY.
Plus they kinda squeek a little bit and make funny noises sometimes...
Plus, a big brake would look good i think cause i use my car for shows and with 19s, my rotors will look TINY.
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Rep Power: 381 If you want the look, GO for it. Just dont expect to stop any quicker.
about bleeding the brakes, Take it to one of those quikie brake places and tell them to do it. Just dont let them talk you in to any thing else...
about bleeding the brakes, Take it to one of those quikie brake places and tell them to do it. Just dont let them talk you in to any thing else...
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TUCKIN 19s
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Originally Posted by Zzyzx
If you want the look, GO for it. Just dont expect to stop any quicker.
about bleeding the brakes, Take it to one of those quikie brake places and tell them to do it. Just dont let them talk you in to any thing else...
about bleeding the brakes, Take it to one of those quikie brake places and tell them to do it. Just dont let them talk you in to any thing else...
Can I do at my house? I have every tool possibly, plus my dad could help me, he probably knows how...
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TUCKIN 19s
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Rep Power: 321 Just talked to my dad- said he can help me with it.
I dont remember if me and my friend blead my brakes when we changed my rotors and pads and that might be my problem, OOOPS....So im going to do it this week hopefully.
I dont remember if me and my friend blead my brakes when we changed my rotors and pads and that might be my problem, OOOPS....So im going to do it this week hopefully.
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TUCKIN 19s
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Originally Posted by zen_master
so..
by using bigger wheel but lighter weight (compared to stock steelies), i do improve my car, right?
by using bigger wheel but lighter weight (compared to stock steelies), i do improve my car, right?
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Rep Power: 381 You'll get a little better turning responce out of your street tires, but other wise your braking and accleeration will remain pretty much unaffected. (as long as your 17s weigh about 15 LBS).
ThE FaMiLy SeDaN
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according to your stuff.. urt just saying all the weight lies on the outer edge..
19" tires weigh less than 15" tires... so im just thinking...
a 19" wheel 20.6lbs+tire(15lbs)=35lbs
where a 15" light weight wheel +tire=35 lbs...
i mean i understand but all ur calculations are so precise but not accurate...
precise in the #'s but not accurate as in where the weight lies... if i broke the spokes off the wheels ^^ bought they prolly weight like 12lbs (each spoke prolly weight .8 and the center hub section 4lbs.... then the cast round section weighs 8-8.6 im just saying with all ur calculation u need to feel the wheels on ur car first hand to judge..
i am a very strong believer in your calculations and theories except for this one.. ive had light *** 15's and i've had light *** 19's (14.5lb 19's) the 19's weighed same as 15's 14.5lbs and when raced and put to extremes i liked the 19's better because of less body roll.. less give on the tires and more tire-ground ratio at all times...
JUST my opinion..
btw 2k2......ELI your rims are strong as **** monoblock rolled they are light...overall w/ tires lighter than my 14" stocks and really nice... you wont notice much of a difference than stocks w/ acceleration/braking/mileage.... u might lose .5-1 MPG but thats just because the friction rate of more tire-ground... the 215mm wide will create more friction than a 185 anyday... but im just saying their nice/****ing light for 19's (except for the forged aerospace aluminum 19's i offer at 14.5lbs.) but yeah u picked a good wheel.!!
riley
according to your stuff.. urt just saying all the weight lies on the outer edge..
19" tires weigh less than 15" tires... so im just thinking...
a 19" wheel 20.6lbs+tire(15lbs)=35lbs
where a 15" light weight wheel +tire=35 lbs...
i mean i understand but all ur calculations are so precise but not accurate...
precise in the #'s but not accurate as in where the weight lies... if i broke the spokes off the wheels ^^ bought they prolly weight like 12lbs (each spoke prolly weight .8 and the center hub section 4lbs.... then the cast round section weighs 8-8.6 im just saying with all ur calculation u need to feel the wheels on ur car first hand to judge..
i am a very strong believer in your calculations and theories except for this one.. ive had light *** 15's and i've had light *** 19's (14.5lb 19's) the 19's weighed same as 15's 14.5lbs and when raced and put to extremes i liked the 19's better because of less body roll.. less give on the tires and more tire-ground ratio at all times...
JUST my opinion..
btw 2k2......ELI your rims are strong as **** monoblock rolled they are light...overall w/ tires lighter than my 14" stocks and really nice... you wont notice much of a difference than stocks w/ acceleration/braking/mileage.... u might lose .5-1 MPG but thats just because the friction rate of more tire-ground... the 215mm wide will create more friction than a 185 anyday... but im just saying their nice/****ing light for 19's (except for the forged aerospace aluminum 19's i offer at 14.5lbs.) but yeah u picked a good wheel.!!
riley
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Rep Power: 381 Typically 80% of a wheels weight lays in the rim its self, and Yes they calculations are just estimates. With out actually Disecting each section of the wheel its virtually impossible to calculate its rotational mass. There are simple formulas that allow you to calculate the Inertia of a wheel, but they are simplified, so they only give you an estimate on that wheels Inertia.
Your 19 Vs 15 feeling better when driven hard is an issue with tire side wall stiffness. with the proper tire that wouldnt be an issue. and example of this are my race tires, Falken Azenis RS in 205/50-15. These tires possibly have the Stiffest side wall of any Street tire out there. and when compaired against my 17s 215/45-17 the 15" handle and respond MUCH better.
Your 19 Vs 15 feeling better when driven hard is an issue with tire side wall stiffness. with the proper tire that wouldnt be an issue. and example of this are my race tires, Falken Azenis RS in 205/50-15. These tires possibly have the Stiffest side wall of any Street tire out there. and when compaired against my 17s 215/45-17 the 15" handle and respond MUCH better.
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