spark issues
Thread Starter
Registered!!
Joined: Jan 2025
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Rep Power: 0 
spark issues I have a 1996 that I just did an engine swap on after blowing up my y7. I've put a Y8 in and it has no spark.
I have:
1. tried the Y8 ECU I got with the engine
2. tried the y7 ECU from the car that was running before the swap
3. Tries the old distributor from the Y7
4. Tried an new distributor TEC type (as defined by the OEM service manual)
5. Done the ICM input test (results below)
- step 1 - Remove the distributor cap and leak cover - DONE
- step 2 - Disconnect the wires from the ICM - DONE
- step 3 - Turn on ignition and check voltage at BLK/YEL = 12.3 VDC <--- correct
- step 4 - Turn on ignition and check voltage at WHT/BLU = 12.1 VDC <--- Close
- step 5 - Disconnect ECM?PCM Conector A and check continuity on YEL/GRN between ECM and ICU - 0.1 OHMs <--- Correct
- step 6 - Check continuity between YEL/GRN and ground = OL (no continuity) <--- Correct
- step 7 - Check continuity between BLU wire between ICM and Tachometer test connector = 0.5 OHMs <--- Correct
- step 8 - Check continuity between BLU and Ground
------- With ICM wires disconnected still = OL (no continuity) <--- Correct
------- With ICM wires connected = 1.1 OHMs <----- No idea if thats normal
I also swapped the Crank Position sensor with a known good but still no spark.
all the spark plug wires have the correct resistance
I'm out of ideas. in theory all the parts should be good. I guess it's possible the new distributor is bad but that seems unlikely.
Side notes on other stuff that's not yet hooked up:
O2 sensors
Oil Pressure sensor
Knock Sensor
Temp Sensor
But, to my knowlege none of these should prevent spark. Please let me know if you have any experience with this or ideas.
I have:
1. tried the Y8 ECU I got with the engine
2. tried the y7 ECU from the car that was running before the swap
3. Tries the old distributor from the Y7
4. Tried an new distributor TEC type (as defined by the OEM service manual)
5. Done the ICM input test (results below)
- step 1 - Remove the distributor cap and leak cover - DONE
- step 2 - Disconnect the wires from the ICM - DONE
- step 3 - Turn on ignition and check voltage at BLK/YEL = 12.3 VDC <--- correct
- step 4 - Turn on ignition and check voltage at WHT/BLU = 12.1 VDC <--- Close
- step 5 - Disconnect ECM?PCM Conector A and check continuity on YEL/GRN between ECM and ICU - 0.1 OHMs <--- Correct
- step 6 - Check continuity between YEL/GRN and ground = OL (no continuity) <--- Correct
- step 7 - Check continuity between BLU wire between ICM and Tachometer test connector = 0.5 OHMs <--- Correct
- step 8 - Check continuity between BLU and Ground
------- With ICM wires disconnected still = OL (no continuity) <--- Correct
------- With ICM wires connected = 1.1 OHMs <----- No idea if thats normal
I also swapped the Crank Position sensor with a known good but still no spark.
all the spark plug wires have the correct resistance
I'm out of ideas. in theory all the parts should be good. I guess it's possible the new distributor is bad but that seems unlikely.
Side notes on other stuff that's not yet hooked up:
O2 sensors
Oil Pressure sensor
Knock Sensor
Temp Sensor
But, to my knowlege none of these should prevent spark. Please let me know if you have any experience with this or ideas.
Thread
Thread Starter
Honda Civic Forum
Replies
Last Post
toddfiebig
Mechanical Problems/Vehicle Issues and Fix-it Forum
0
Jan 19, 2016 10:20 AM
exturbo6
General Automotive Discussion
16
Aug 17, 2006 08:41 AM
