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‘96 Civic EX began to sputter, and hestitate as I stepped on gas or when I took foot off gas. While idling I could hear a very slight rhythmic “cough”.
If the CEL flashed and went away then it was misfiring.
Thanks!
Yeah, still on. I took it out again and drove to Autozone to get it scanned for free (issue still occurring), but mgr told me since the car is older than a ‘97 they can’t scan it. I called Advance and they said the same, so looks like I’ll have to wait until tomorrow and bring it to a mechanic who can.
Yes forgot about that pre 98 OBD business. There is a way you can do it with a paper clip. Google will know.
Thanks!
Apparently it’s pre 96 business i.e. before 96 = OBD I, after 96 = OBD II and the Sunday crews didn’t know. I called AZ this morning and asked if they can scan OBD II and they said yes, so I went back and scan showed code P1509, idle air control valve circuit failure.
They have a Duralast part #AC349 in stock for $176.99 + tax with lifetime warranty, which if I buy online I can get 20% off for $151.51 including tax and shipped to home by 13th-14th.
That said, how much damage can be done driving for a week with a bad idle air control valve?
dont buy the duralast one either buy a new honda one or go to a junkyard and get a used one
Thanks!
Yeah, seeing bad reviews for the Duralast, but OEM is about $350, which I don’t have and nothing locally at salvage yards. That said, RockAuto has WVE/Airtex/Wells part #2H1110 with 3 year warranty for $131 shipped.
As a side note, I also have a faulty a/c blower motor; could that have affected the IACV?
again dont buy aftermarket, use car-part.com if none of the local wrecking yards have one. or check local buy and sell pages and see if anyone is parting out a car
again dont buy aftermarket, use car-part.com if none of the local wrecking yards have one. or check local buy and sell pages and see if anyone is parting out a car
Thanks!
Couldn’t find a way to select IACV on car-part.com; will have to keep looking. What damage can be done driving like this?
Thanks!
Couldn’t find a way to select IACV on car-part.com; will have to keep looking. What damage can be done driving like this?
Probably just have to get a whole throttle body, but it will still be cheaper than a new iacv, and those screws don't like to come out after a while so you're better to swap the whole thing. Just make sure it comes off a car with the same engine and trans
Probably just have to get a whole throttle body, but it will still be cheaper than a new iacv, and those screws don't like to come out after a while so you're better to swap the whole thing. Just make sure it comes off a car with the same engine and trans
Thanks!
If any ‘96-2000 with same engine and trans are compatible, these appear to be my best options:
1998Throttle Body Assembly, $50 + tax, I have to drive 30 miles each way to pick up.
1997Throttle Body Assembly, $75 + $8 delivery + tax
1) “Just drive the car as you normally would and the CPU will automaticly relearn your driving habits and be fine. It may stall the first few miles till it learns you want it to continue to drive it. Just avoid heavy traffic areas the first few miles.”
2) “Start the car up with no loads like A/C or lights on and you let it idle not touching the steering wheel or gas pedal for about 10 minutes. In this time the computer is "learning" it's idle speed setting by looking at sensor values and making adjustments. After 10 mins. it's good to go.”
1) “Just drive the car as you normally would and the CPU will automaticly relearn your driving habits and be fine. It may stall the first few miles till it learns you want it to continue to drive it. Just avoid heavy traffic areas the first few miles.”
2) “Start the car up with no loads like A/C or lights on and you let it idle not touching the steering wheel or gas pedal for about 10 minutes. In this time the computer is "learning" it's idle speed setting by looking at sensor values and making adjustments. After 10 mins. it's good to go.”
Thoughts?
You list 2 options. Which of those two options sounds like the vehicle is idling? Which of those two options sounds like the vehicle is being driven? One of those procedures sounds a lot like a transmission shift adaptive learn procedure which doesn't apply to a honda from that era anyways.
You list 2 options. Which of those two options sounds like the vehicle is idling? Which of those two options sounds like the vehicle is being driven? One of those procedures sounds a lot like a transmission shift adaptive learn procedure which doesn't apply to a honda from that era anyways.
Well, they both refer to idle relearn. The 1st option the car is driven and refers to a 98, while in the 2nd option the car is not driven and does not appear to state year and/or era...What’s your point?
I’m thinking it’s probably a good idea to clean both the used throttle body and IACV before installing, but I’ve heard some cleaners are too harsh and should be avoided.
That said, is this too harsh?
If yes, what should I use instead?
I separated the IACV from TB that I bought at salvage yard; so I can clean it and WOW...can’t wait to see what the one on my car looks like.
I bought a new TB gasket, IACV o-ring as well as throttle body & air intake cleaner, with which I plan to use a cloth shop rag and old toothbrush to clean both parts.
That said, would you spray and let soak first, then clean or scrape some of the corrosion off first, then spray?
05-05-2019
