john_rodgers321

I recently bought my 2003 Civic LX, and have been driving it daily for about a month. About a week ago, whilst pulling into my driveway, I romped on the brakes, and the car skidded across the road. I didn't think anything about it, because my brakes seemed to work just fine for a few days afterwards. I was driving the car a few days later, and when i started the car, there was no brake pressure, and the pedal sank to the floor. I carefully drove the car home, and did some research on the problem. Turns out, my master cylinder reservoir had been zip tied to the actual assembly, and was leaking fluid down the booster. I bought a new MC, bench bled it, and put the new one back on. When i went to bleed the brakes however, the rear wheel cylinders had to be replaced (bleeder valves and brake lines connecting to the wheel cylinder had been rusted away to near non-existence). After replacing the rear cylinders and brake lines I went to bleed the brakes, but got very little fluid from the front passenger-side bleeder, and nothing(not even air) out of the back bleeders. The drivers side front bleeder bled the way it was supposed to. After several hours of research, i still have found nothing that would indicate why some of the brake lines are getting fluid (even in small quantities) and the others are not getting anything. Also, it appears as though only the drivers side front brake and the rear passenger side drum brake is functioning correctly. Was told it may be bad proportioning valve, but not sure. Trying as hard as possible not to take this to the dealership/a professional. Any help or insight would be greatly appreciated.

UPDATE: master cylinder is good, no leaks anywhere, bleeders are not clogged, STILL NOT RECEIVING FLUID AT PASSENGER FRONT CALIPER OR DRIVER SIDE REAR DRUM BRAKE

Slumpertcivic

john_rodgers321

Thanks for tip, will update soon

GolNat

iTrader: (7)

Slumpertcivic

mac25

Have you tried not using the power bleeder? Just to get fluid through the line.

Use a clear rubber hose with a zap strap on it to secure it to the open bleeder nipple. Make sure you have a box end wrench on the nipple so you can close it later. Make sure the hose is submerged in brake fluid in a bottle so air won't get bake into the line.

While the bleeder is open, make sure the fluid is full, and just keep pumping the brake pedal with your foot and refilling the reservoir until brake fluid comes out. Keep going until you don't see any more bubbles. Then close the bleeder.

ezone

Too much air in the system kinda prohibits fluid flow if one can't make the flow liquid quickly

Open jar of brake fluid and insert it upside down in the reservoir top, this assures a good supply of fluid

2 people
One inside the car pushes the pedal down
now you open ONE bleeder
Place your index finger (with rubber glove) covering the open bleeder, seal it but gently so any pressure can exit but your glove won't allow air back in (your gloved finger is now acting as a check valve)---- while someone pumps the brake pedal in about 2 second intervals, alternate this method back and forth between the two corners that have the problem until each has good fluid flow and are completely bled out

john_rodgers321

After using the power bleeder at each brake, we removed a decent amount of darkish green brake fluid. We couldn’t get the rear brake drums to bleed, but after some tinkering with the wheel cylinders, we found out that the bleeder screws weren’t holding pressure. We wrapped them in Teflon tape, and it seemed to do the trick. I now have brakes back in my vehicle, and will be taking a trip to the auto parts store to buy some new bleeder screws.

Slumpertcivic

GranpaDan

Sounds like the proportioning valve has decided to shut off flow to those wheels. Not sure how to reset it...last one I fixed was on a 73' Volvo!

colewan

Wow :/

photiost

funny post !!