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Hey guys,
I need help to bring my car back to life.
Symptoms: upon start , car runs, shift to 1st , 2nd sometimes 3 and 4th but then after certain distance, it stops shifting at all. no response to paddle at all. Unless I come to complete stop, Turn off the car, Turn it on and it runs again for little distance, and back to no response (as if in Neutral).

OBD error codes : P0730 and P0700

Histroy : I have rebuilt this transmission in 2013. after rebuild I put more than 30k miles on it. I keep my fluid very clean. I even have external cooler and filter attached.

What Have I done so far:
I checked and tested Shift solenoid A&B , they are within specs and make click sound with 12V supply, the filter in solenoid looks very clean.

I have checkd and tested Linear solenoids, they also within specs and make good click sound , also have very clean filter.

I tested TCC solenoid. One on top of the Tranny. and it also seems healthy.

What I have not tested.
I have not tested, any speed sensors. I do not know how to test engine wiring harness.

What should I do next?
Is it that common to have aftermarket tranny parts that I used to rebuild go bad in just 30 k miles, despite of keeping tranny healthy?

How common is it to go speed sensors go bad?

I used torque converter from AutoAdvancedparts, can the Torque converter itself has gone bad?

I am really depressed as this put my family in a desperate need of a new car!!
I do not mind driving this civic as I have put so much time and effort fixing it three years back. I hope you guys understand my feeling.

Please help me out.

Thanks in advance.

 
Rep Power: 518

I don't have the answers you seek....but it's not likely to have a speed sensor problem without corresponding speed sensor related fault codes.
I think it will need a teardown.



Your first line with the symptoms seems to describe what happens when the internal screen filter is loading up with debris while running (starving the pump).....Shut it off and the debris falls away from the filter....then you start it up it's ok for a minute at low RPM...... then when you rev it up and get moving, the debris is sucked into the screen again.
Was it flaring 2->3rd gear before this happened?
Had the TCC lost lockup before this happened?



P0730 was probably set as a result of the slip or neutral condition, meaning that code is not the cause of the slip or neutral condition.

The P0730 is a 'code of death'. In our shop, an estimate is then made for a reman trans replacement (hopefully through Honda). We don't rebuild them in our shop.

Seems like aftermarket anything is a crapshoot unless you can tell its origin and choose wisely.

 
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First of all, thank you very much for such a prompt reply.
It was running just fine and symptoms appeared all of a sudden while coming back from work.

I do have an external filter, perhaps, and Hopefully it might be clogging up and restricting the fluid supply. I will by pass the filter and cooler and see things change.

I know, Honda used cheap atf strainer, therefore I replaced with new one when I rebuilt the tranny.

I think you have 100% grasp on the symptoms what my car is doing. I does go to 2 and 3 sometimes. and sometimes not at all. Very inconsistent behavior. I could come back home after stopping more than 15 times , turning it off.

 
Rep Power: 518

You mean like if you go forward gently enough that it doesn't neutral out before hitting 3rd?



If you study the fluid flow diagrams, I think hot fluid is sent to the cooler immediately after it exits the torque converter.....
I suppose if your TCC shed clutch material then it could end up in the cooler and your inline filter.

Cut open your inline filter and see what's in it? Also....is it another screen type filter?
If it has an internal check valve, was the filter installed the correct direction?


Pics from a stock inline trans filter I chopped open (I forget what this came out of though...probably something much newer than your car):
https://i.imgur.com/JVTgIWC.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/nQyRsar.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/5uvKt8C.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/56rJKd3.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/R2lIYEU.jpg



When we get a reman trans through Honda it comes with an inline filter and instructions have us install it in the cooler line returning to the trans so it can catch any debris that might dislodge from the trans cooler in the radiator.. IOW it's intended to protect the new trans because a cooler can trap and hold debris from the previous trans failure, and if it makes its way into the new trans it can cause failure.



You could do some pressure checks to confirm line pressure drops off to almost nothing when it neutrals out

I still think you're going to have to open up the trans to find the root cause though.

 
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my cooler and filter is a type of Kit looks like Derale cooler. I used napa gold filter that filters the fluid externally. I don't remember now but back in the past my research made me select that napa filter and it has server very well since 2013.

But it is very much possible that the valve in that filter may be dropping the pressure. I do not know how to do pressure checks!!

If I go gentle sometimes it hits 3rd.. but not everytime.!!

 
Rep Power: 518

You'd first need the appropriate service manual.....and the right transmission fluid pressure gauges.....

The trans case has several threaded ports for pressure gauge connections. The service manual should direct you to various connection points depending on which test is being done.


I did not study the check valve in the filter I cut apart...I'm not sure if it was a simple check valve to prevent backflow, or if it was a bypass valve for when the filter clogs up.

 
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Little update:
At this point I am still waiting for a new shift solenoid to arrive as I got it replaced for free under warranty.
I have removed my external cooler and filter and connected cooler hoses back to factory set up.

Unfortunately, I forgot which one is ATF outline and which one is ATF inline on the Tranny? and Mr. google is not helpful. Can someone find an answer for me. My tranny is BMXA.

My external filter seems to be culprit to restricting the flow to tranny as it feels heavy. (atleast that is my last hope, crossing finger) Tomorrow I am getting new solenoid, Fresh Honda ATF and will see what happens.

 
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ONe MOre Question.

Is it possible to have the transmission flush done? so that everything gets cleaned out.

like they do on Mazdas.

 
Rep Power: 518

Off the top of my head I only remember the radiator side of it......In original configuration, the drivers side of the radiator ATF cooler is the return to the trans. (Of course if you got the hoses swapped backwards at the trans that info does no good)

Jizzy lubes will connect a flush machine to just about anything on wheels....but Honda strongly discourages use of flush machines and chemicals.

It can't clean out sediment though.

Hondas official trans fluid flush procedure involves multiple drain-and-fill procedures.

 
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OK. Update :

The car remains with same symptoms, with brand new ATF fluids, removed external cooler and filter, back to factory setup, Brand new shift solenoid,

I am depressed. Put so much time efforts, kept the tranny so clean. Still not convinced that the problem is inside...

it definitely feels like an electrical issue.. but

cannot go against "ezone"'s hypothesis,,, :P

 
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This is exactly my issue seems like. Should I try replacing speed sensor? as the TCC solenoid tests ok.

 
Rep Power: 518

Do it! Prove me wrong
Funny...for being a Honda oriented video, they sure show a bunch of NON-Honda stuff.





IDK.......Got fault codes?

A real good scanner should be able to display speed data from both shaft speed sensors in addition to the VSS on those so equipped. If there's a sensor problem you would probably be able to see it that way.

Pressure tests.....hooked up while driving to see what happens when the trans goes to neutral--- would probably be the check that would give you the most critical information.

 
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UPDATE :

Hey guys, There is something I must share,
Today I noticed that, Engine temperature gauge on Dashboard does not move at all no matter how much I idle the car.

Does false or No temperature reading would cause, ECU to quit on Shifting?

Let me know, Thanks
Teju.

 
Rep Power: 518

No, it would still shift.


Where's your scanner?
Got any codes related to the ECT sensor or thermostat performance failure?
What does the datalist show the engine coolant temperature is--- as seen by the PCM?

Tach, Speedo and Temperature all operate using a datastream from the PCM. Do all 3 of those act wrong?

Could just be a failed gauge stepper motor. You could do a gauge cluster self test to see if all the gauge needles make a full sweep....If only one does not then it's just a bad gauge.