No heat unless giving it gas
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No heat unless giving it gas
I have a 2002 civic there is no heat unless Im driving or at idle giving it gas then the heat output is normal.
The engine temp reads normal not going up or down
Also the coolant overflow is full about inch from top
The engine temp reads normal not going up or down
Also the coolant overflow is full about inch from top
Last edited by bluewrx2001; Feb 5, 2015 at 06:34 PM.
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Re: No heat unless giving it gas
The radiator system is low on fluid. The overflow bottle is too high, that excess liquid should be in the radiator.
And just because it's a 2002 with the symptom, the head gasket is blown.
And just because it's a 2002 with the symptom, the head gasket is blown.
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
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From: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
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it only has 98k on it
I've replaced those head gaskets before they got out of warranty. Some blow early in life, some blow late. Some seem to go forever without failing. It's hit and miss.
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So, I am having this issue as well and suspect head gasket. 2002 EX.
Symptoms:
1. Cold air at idle, hot with higher RPMs.
2.Overflow tank full, not going back into radiator. Have to put more in radiator. (temp fixes cold air)
3.Pressure in radiator after engine is cold. (like sit all weekend cold, open radiator cap and get sprayed.)
There is no oil in radiator, and no coolant in oil. Car is not overheating.
The head gasket was replaced 30,000 miles ago. That time the coolant dumped into the oil and it overheated. I instantly turned the car off when i felt cold air and saw temp gauge rise. Coasted to my workplace which just so happened to be across the street from an auto repair shop. Had them replace the head gasket, water pump and timing belt. That was at 90K. 120K and im pretty sure its blown again.
Oh, the machine shop said the head was not warped and so it wasn't resurfaced. Im guessing that the machine shop may have been wrong and thats why it blew again so quickly. (if it is blown, im still trying to convince myself its not the HG)
It didnt overheat for long, but im guessing it doesnt take much to warp an aluminum head......
Im probably going to try the repair myself this time as i cannot afford to pay shop prices again.
Any tips or suggestions? You guys think its the HG as well?
JW
Symptoms:
1. Cold air at idle, hot with higher RPMs.
2.Overflow tank full, not going back into radiator. Have to put more in radiator. (temp fixes cold air)
3.Pressure in radiator after engine is cold. (like sit all weekend cold, open radiator cap and get sprayed.)
There is no oil in radiator, and no coolant in oil. Car is not overheating.
The head gasket was replaced 30,000 miles ago. That time the coolant dumped into the oil and it overheated. I instantly turned the car off when i felt cold air and saw temp gauge rise. Coasted to my workplace which just so happened to be across the street from an auto repair shop. Had them replace the head gasket, water pump and timing belt. That was at 90K. 120K and im pretty sure its blown again.
Oh, the machine shop said the head was not warped and so it wasn't resurfaced. Im guessing that the machine shop may have been wrong and thats why it blew again so quickly. (if it is blown, im still trying to convince myself its not the HG)
It didnt overheat for long, but im guessing it doesnt take much to warp an aluminum head......
Im probably going to try the repair myself this time as i cannot afford to pay shop prices again.
Any tips or suggestions? You guys think its the HG as well?
JW
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 32,017
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From: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
Rep Power: 518 Re: No heat unless giving it gas
A little more work can prove it.
Or prove it's not.
This is a very worthwhile thing to do....so you don't dive in if it's not really bad.
If the radiator cap and overflow tank system isn't working correctly, you could end up with eerily similar symptoms.
which just so happened to be across the street from an auto repair shop. Had them replace the head gasket, water pump and timing belt. That was at 90K. 120K and im pretty sure its blown again.
Oh, the machine shop said the head was not warped and so it wasn't resurfaced. Im guessing that the machine shop may have been wrong and thats why it blew again so quickly. (if it is blown, im still trying to convince myself its not the HG)
It didnt overheat for long, but im guessing it doesnt take much to warp an aluminum head......
Im probably going to try the repair myself this time as i cannot afford to pay shop prices again.
JW
Search the forum for the "overheating common causes" thread, and the head gasket DIY thread.
That time the coolant dumped into the oil and it overheated.
Oh, the machine shop said the head was not warped and so it wasn't resurfaced. Im guessing that the machine shop may have been wrong and thats why it blew again so quickly.
Oh, the machine shop said the head was not warped and so it wasn't resurfaced. Im guessing that the machine shop may have been wrong and thats why it blew again so quickly.
Slap a gasket in and collect your money.
By the time you realize anything was wrong, any warranty on the job is expired.
It takes a whole lot to mix fluids on this engine IMO, I bet a nickel it was warped.
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Im so confused by this lol.
Edit: Forgot to thank you for the reply. Thanks ezone.
Last edited by J DOUBLE U; Feb 10, 2015 at 06:55 PM. Reason: Forgot to thank ezone for prev reply
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Joined: Dec 2011
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From: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
Rep Power: 518 Re: No heat unless giving it gas
Can you elaborate on this? What little more work do i need to do?
One of these years I should make a video of the process.
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
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From: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
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https://www.civicforums.com/forums/3...reference.html
Quote:
Originally Posted by ezone
Half of the bad head gaskets I see on this engine will pass every test you guys have mentioned. These almost never leak externally. These almost always leak from the combustion chamber into the cooling system, and that's it. That's all.
My procedure:
Start with a hot engine, pull out plugs and rad cap:
Pressurize each cylinder (@TDC, one at a time) with shop air line pressure 170+ PSI. Watch for the coolant level to rise when you get to the bad one. (sometimes this is a slow process)
If no results, then wait for the engine to cool down and repeat this same procedure on each cylinder.
If it passes this test, then it's probably ok right now.
Originally Posted by ezone
Half of the bad head gaskets I see on this engine will pass every test you guys have mentioned. These almost never leak externally. These almost always leak from the combustion chamber into the cooling system, and that's it. That's all.
My procedure:
Start with a hot engine, pull out plugs and rad cap:
Pressurize each cylinder (@TDC, one at a time) with shop air line pressure 170+ PSI. Watch for the coolant level to rise when you get to the bad one. (sometimes this is a slow process)
If no results, then wait for the engine to cool down and repeat this same procedure on each cylinder.
If it passes this test, then it's probably ok right now.
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