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Hey everyone,
I'm new to the forums, I've lurked here looking for answers to my problem, but I can't seem to find a solid answer.

So here I go..
My 2005 Honda Civic SE (1.7L SOHC 16-valve) about 5 months ago shot me a SEL(Service Engine Light) with the error code P0139 (Oxygen Sensor Circuit Slow Response), within a few days it became P0140, meaning it died I guess.
I went to my local mechanic and he ordered me the part and leant me the special socket to remove the sensor, all fine and dandy, SEL turned off.

About 2 months ago SEL turned on again, this time with a P0135(Oxygen O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1, Sensor 1)), I called the same mechanic and he said I should bring it in this time, he charged me an hour and told me it was probably the main wide-band sensor ($279.99 OUCH) but it would take a week to come in, within that week I got a few more codes because I continued to use the car, being a P0134 (Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank I Sensor 1)), the regular P0135, a P0171 (engine running lean) and a super random code not in my book that says 2900.

I put in the new sensor and all was well and good, my fuel efficiency came back and the car stopped running like a 3 legged mule.

But today.....my god...
Riding down the highway, blasting AC/DC and my check engine light turns on (I swore a lot at it). I get home and plug in my OBDI reader and I get these....

P0134
P0135
P0139
P0171
2900 (?)

Im out of ideas, all the sensors are new and working, is there one singe thing that could have caused this?

ANY suggestions at this point is very much appreciated.

Thanks in advance.


Cheers,


-F

 
Rep Power: 187

Did you use OEM or aftermarket parts?

 
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Whatever sensor I removed I put the exact one back, I asked my mechanic to order te exact same part number found on the old sensor.
Both were Bosch I believe.

 
Rep Power: 187

Ok. Just FYI these engines don't like aftermarket parts. NGK or Denso is generally the brand for most sensors and from many posts from other people with similar issues, these cars don't like Bosch or any other aftermarket part. I'm sure your mechanic just cross referenced it to an aftermarket part which will still be expensive.

I'd recommend you replace the sensors you replaced with OEM parts. They are pieces 19 and 20 in the below image. I assumed your car is equivalent to and EX and is and automatic.

 
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I'm 100% sure they're the same part, I installed them myself and they look identical to the old ones. Unless they have some different internal component.
Is that possible?

 
Rep Power: 187

Yes it's possible. The ECU has problems with aftermarket O2 sensors for what ever reason. I'd still recommend you replace it with an OEM sensor. If you doubt what I'm saying, you can wait for a second opinion.

 
Rep Power: 519

Seconded.

 
Rep Power: 519

Never waste coin on Bosch anything for a Honda.
Bosch is associated mostly with Euro cars, not Asian.

NTK or DENSO

Got a US bulletin 07-019 dealing with a reflash for P0139.


Of the P0134/P0135 codes, chase the P0135 first as it can cause the P0134. Proper testing!
Blown fuses for the heater circuit(s)?

P0171 is a lean code. Could easily be caused by a bad sensor.

P2900? Invalid #, doesn't exist for a US car, according to my info.


'sall I gots at the moment

 
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No I totally am open to any suggestions, but I just don't see how it's a bad sensor after 2 months of driving. I put about 400+ km a week, more then enough for the system diagnosis to run.
You could very well be right.

 
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I'm sorry I have no idea what this means. Could you explain?

I'll check the fuses when I get home, I'm working away from home this week so the car is sitting in the driveway for a while.

 
Rep Power: 519

(P0139, O2 B1S2 slow response.)

"Reflash" means a software update, new software for the PCM that deals with this specific code, for falsely setting when there is no true problem.

Won't help at all if there really is a problem though. Software can't fix a hard fault.
If it blew a fuse, there must be a reason it blew. I just made a wildass guess.

There's a whole troubleshooting guide for each of the codes, for inspecting and diagnosing--- before you just fire the parts cannon at the car and hope something sticks.


Handy pic of a parts cannon:




HTH

 
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Hey Everyone!
I hope this thread hasn't been buried,l but I have some new information.
My girlfriend went over to my place to grab some things and I asked her to check the fuses (as advised, thanks again!) and she said they'll all fine.

I told her to start it up and check to hear if there is a very obvious vacuum leak, she says she couldn't hear anything, but did notice exhaust coming from behind the heat shield, she said it was very prominent when the car first starts but fades away as it runs, but it is still visible if you look for it.
Is this something to do with the outside temperature? Its about -2 C during the day.
Or could this be the leak thats causing all my errors.

Sorry abou the photo she says she tried to get a shot of the exhaust.



THANKS

 
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Sigh...
Hello everyone,
So I caved and called my brother over to my place to look at my car, giving him a list of things to look over before making a final conclusion, we checked with the volt meter and all the harnesses are fine, everything is working.

I called about 7 different mechanics and they all said the same thing, that you should never put a European component in an asian car. Bosch in a Honda. The sensor that was in the car before was Bosch, but that may be the reason why its been such a handful.

I am pricing out a new Denso sensor now. Any new ideas, please let me know.

Cheers,

-F

 
Rep Power: 187

I'm not 100% sure if one has to do with other.

You probably have a crack in the exhaust manifold, which is common in these cars as they age. Plus you obviously live in a cold climate, so it has seen extremes in thermal cycles. These manifolds are made of cast iron. You'd have to take the heat shield off and do a visual inspection. I'm sure you're going to find a crack somewhere if what you said was true.

The cracked manifold may still effect emissions slightly, but I'm sticking to my guns that I'd recommend you still replace whatever sensor/sensors you replaced with an OEM one. Now that you've discovered this issue with the manifold, I'd recommend you either fix this one via a weld(really cheap way) or look on ebay or in a junkyard. If you're going to any work yourself I'd be really careful about removing those bolts from the studs. I can see there's a lot of rust there. I'd use plenty of PB blaster or something to soak those threads and bolt before removing it. If you don't, you take the chance of breaking the stud off at the head, which will cause even more headaches for you.

Edited: I put a statement in there about buying a cheap manifold because I got you confused with another thread. I see you're U.S. equivalent to an LX/DX and your cats built in to the ex. manifold.

HTH

 
Rep Power: 0

Hello again old friend,
I'm currently away for work and I just keep sending family to look at it for me, I can't justify having hem take the car apart haha.

Is it normal to see a small amount of exhaust when you turn the car on?
I'm not sure if it was actually exhaust seeing I wasn't there, it could have been some condensation being evaporated by the engine heat.

It was my girlfriend who discovered it, shes not a car person (I still love her), so I'm unsure about it.

 
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Also,
I'm from Canada, does anyone know if majestic honda ships to Canada, if not does anyone know a similar site for OEM parts at a reasonable price?

 
Rep Power: 519

Every new post brings the thread to the top...... Until another thread goes to the top.

Very common. They crack due to stress and thermal cycling, and after they crack the crack is larger when cold. As the manifold heats up, it expands and the crack closes......thus, the sound abates.

Also, I see them warp and pull away from the head surface, loose or broken studs, etc., without cracking the manifold itself.
You'd have to pull the heat shield off and start looking if you really want to find the cause.

Seriously doubt it. It's an issue, but not the cause of your codes IMO.I SEE the wrong front sensor in there.
*shudder*

Even better, both sensors look like they are very recent replacements. Both Bosch?


Except the codes are still there.....


I'd SWEAR I've heard this somewhere before....

Side note: That says a LOT about the people that answered the question..
So.....Someone before you also chose the cheaper part?

Check the DENSO website?
Cross reference the Honda part number to a Denso,

Then see where you can get that number locally?



Absolutely normal. All cars do it. Water vapor.
Just watch other cars in traffic on a cold day, many will be doing the same thing, to a varying degree..

Call them and ask.

Canadian:
http://www.torontohondaparts.com/

 
Rep Power: 0

Thank you for clearing that up
Yes, yes, I have come to the conclusion that the sensor in the car when I got it was, in fact, incorrect, I've had this car for 4 years so seeing its lasted this long without an issue is surprising. Maybe I'll get better milage after I install the new one.

2nd sensor was switched this summer, it's an NGK, I still have the receipt.




Thanks

 
Rep Power: 519

You mean NTK?


A thought here,
Was the bottom sensor originally an NTK also? That might indicate that the original top sensor was NTK too.
I never kept track though so I can't tell you for certain.


And the factory parts catalog does not tell what brand the sensors are. Damnit.

 
Rep Power: 0

Hey,
So I've found the part online.
But just to make sure its the NTK Oxygen Sensor 24665
Thanks.

 
Rep Power: 519

Did you cross reference that from the factory (Honda) part number?

 
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I did not, I called around and asked the gentleman at the parts store.
How to I cross-reference the Honda part.

 
Rep Power: 519

For an 05 DX/ LX, Hondas part #36531-PLM-306 ($275 @torontohondaparts.com)

My catalog doesn't tell who the manufacturer was, and a quick web search showed it as DENSO.
I don't have a real car in front of me to verify this either.




Oh hell, just look it up on the DENSO site.
http://densoautoparts.com/find-my-pa...icle-selection


I got 234-9005





http://densoautoparts.com/where-to-buy

 
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This is what I used on my own EX... I'm sure the one for the DX/LX is on there -- and it was only ~$150 for mine. Just enter '234-9005' into the search field.

 
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The original one I pulled out was NTK, so I thought it would be a good idea to put the same thing back.
Would the NTK 24665 be the right one?

 
Rep Power: 519

You sure it was NTK? That's not what this says:















Look it up on the NGK website?