Rep Power: 0

So I just replaced my head gasket and timing belt on my 04 Civic Si. Everything is hooked up properly but the car wont start. It just keeps rolling over.

We checked for spark which is good, but fuel is not getting past the injectors. There is alot of pressure in the lines but not going through the injectors.

We even tried to switch an injector to one of my stock RSX injectors. Still no luck.

I had to PGR fuel relay off while doing the DIYs but is back on. Im lost as to what could be causing the car not to start.

Any ideas?

Thanks.

 
Rep Power: 517

If the injectors aren't firing, figure out which part is missing.
Are they missing the 12V+ or the ground pulse signal?
Knowing this much at least gives a direction to go, instead of chasing your tail in circles.


If the ground signal from the PCM is missing:
If the cam is out of time with the crank, the computer may disable the injectors so it cannot run. It may only be 2 teeth off to do this.

Got any codes?

Immobilizer light blinking angrily while it won't start?

No coolant got into the CKP connector?

HTH

 
Rep Power: 0

How do I find out if they are missing the 12v or ground signal?

The timing is 100% on. We've checked 3 seperate times now. No engine codes becuase the engine will not run to start the code.

I also dont believe the immobilizer light is blinking.

I just checked all fuses which turned out fine. Im not sure however how to check the relays. I also disconnected all sensors, put the injectors back in and tried again to start it with no luck.

I am so frustrated because it ran last week, but was a tooth off and was in limp mode, and when I changed the timing belt again to be perfect it now wont start. :S

 
Rep Power: 517

How do I find out if they are missing the 12v or ground signal?

Test light is my first choice. And a wiring diagram, if necessary.
You need to figure out which side is missing before going much further aimlessly.

The timing is 100% on. We've checked 3 seperate times now. No engine codes becuase the engine will not run to start the code.

Check for codes anyway.
Many codes will set without the engine running.
Many other problems won't set codes.

Example:
If the TPS tells the PCM that the throttle is at WOT, the PCM will not allow fuel to be injected.
Is the throttle jammed wide open? Does the computer think it is? A couple of simple voltage measurements can give an answer to this.

Im not sure however how to check the relays.

Again: knowledge of how they work, a wiring diagram, and a test light is what I use in most cases.
DVOM is second choice when checking many 12v circuits.
DVOM is first choice when checking other things that operate on low voltage.
A proper scantool may rank far above both of those when gathering information.


I also disconnected all sensors, put the injectors back in and tried again to start it with no luck.

May as well go for a jog around the block too. LOL

I am so frustrated because it ran last week, but was a tooth off and was in limp mode, and when I changed the timing belt again to be perfect it now wont start.

Could the alternator have been left loose during the timing belt job and fried the PCM?



HTH

 
Rep Power: 0

Bit of an update. I replaced the cam and crank shaft sensors tonight and the car started, but very hard. But when it did finially start it idled fine. We ran a lot of tests and the conclusion we came up with is that my ecu is bad. It reads the sensors fine but doesn't know what to do. I'm still getting a code for the crank shaft sensor. even when I clear the code it just comes back.

 
Rep Power: 517

What is the exact code number?

Pull the plug off the crank sensor and look in there at the terminals of the harness. See if there is any green corrosion. They had issues with water or other liquids getting in there and rotting terminals.
That could certainly cause codes from bad or no contact.

If any of its wires have ever got the insulation nicked, that lets corrosion start. You should do wire continuity checks from the sensor to the computer before you condemn the computer.
Could save you from a real expensive mistake.


HTH

 
Rep Power: 0

Little update.

Dropped the car off at Honda Tuesday night. Received a call yesterday. I got good news. Turns out the it was the crank gear reluctor ring. Apparently a couple teeth had broken off which I must have missed.

So 4 weeks later, a new crank and cam gear sensor, a used ecu and a bunch of headaches the car is fixed. I'll be picking it up tomorrow

 
Rep Power: 517

Well, that certainly would explain it.

I assume this damage was caused by a human.

This isn't something that normally happens.
Human error can be some of the worst things to figure out.