ezone

If no joy finding a blown fuse, then next I'd probably go to troubleshooting the immobiliser system at the control unit connector to see why it's not functioning, as that's likely tied to why the engine doesn't run now. Not saying it's an immobilizer problem, but based on what you said above that's the system that has the most obvious symptom. It would at least be a starting point anyway.

RSKtakR

Ok so I put the alternator back in but haven't hooked the battery back up yet. I looked through the fuses in the motor bay and found the 15 amp fuse labeled ecu blown.. Which would explain the lack of spark and whatever else I suppose. I haven't swapped the fuse yet but I will here pretty soon and see what happens.

RSKtakR

Checked the other fuses and all were good. Hooked up the alternator, the battery, new fuse in. Turned the key and saw the green key now, then started the car and it fired right up like it used to normally and zero check engine light. I let it run for a little bit and still no CE light. Gotta head to the junk yard tomorrow to pick up a drivers side motor mount since this one finslly stripped out at the alternator bolt and one of the big vertical mount bolts. HOPEFULLY this problem is squashed.

ezone

Whatever short to ground caused that fuse to blow, may have been the random intermittent buck you've been chasing all along.

A really brief short to ground, just enough to cause a hiccup but didn't last long enough to blow the fuse while driving along....but now something was disturbed/changed/moved and it shorted the 12v to ground long enough to blow the fuse....

Which number (hole) is the fuse location, and which fusebox?

If it's engine compartment fuse #6, there's a lot of stuff connected to that fuse...so there's a lot of wiring to be inspected as well.

I found a wire diagram that shows the wire color is yellow/black and it feeds power to all of these items:

main relays #1 and #2
injectors
IAC
CKP
CMP
ECM
immobilizer control unit

RSKtakR

Interesting turn of events today... So after the car ran fine the other night I got it all put back together and I was putting tools away before starting it and I realized I had the old crank sensor in so I pulled it out and put the new one in. Went and turned the key and the green key blinked but different then normal and just stopped. Tried to start the car and nothing again. Went and checked the ecu fuse and its popped again and now there was a smell of burnt plastic. I put a new fuse in, and reinstalled the old crank sensor and everything worked fine as its supposed to. Went for a drive and the car ran great so far. I'll be getting a refund for this OEM crank sensor that obviously got hot (it has a bubble on it now from getting so hot) and it has the same burnt smell when you smell the sensor to. Not sure wtf happened with that but no problems so far.

ezone

Sounds like the crank sensor is the cause of the blown fuse.....

Now the question is, was that sensor the cause of the random bucking problem all along?

RSKtakR

No I think the cause of the miss/bucking was because the timing belt gear and sprocket that send the signal were sticking out past the sensor to far for the crank sensor to get a good signal 100% of the time.. And the fact the the bolt from the cam sensor kinda marred up the crank sensor made for a crappy combo (I hope). I'm kinda pissed the new sensor burnt up but **** happens I guess and I'm glad the fuse was in place but I'm just hoping nothing else was damaged and I hope the problem is solved lol.

RSKtakR

So to update the problem our 01 coupe has. I replaced both the Cam angle or TDC sensor and the Crank position sensor with real OEM parts instead of the fake oem parts (I was under the impression were OEM but weren't).. anyways. So far after about 100 miles there is no intermittent dying, no CEL's or anything. Car is running well. I plan on driving it around staying local to home before I decide to drive it 37 miles one way to work and then put my wife back driving it.