done with this D17A1...
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done with this D17A1...
Hello, here is me again... well. Looking for some advice here...
My 03 lx Sedan with this D17A1 needs replacement... I mean, it still works, but, but.. come on!. the rattle noise from the engine block is driving me crazy. Just accelerating it sound like it has marbles bauncing inside... merging to a freeway make me stress sometimes, since I think it's going to blow in pieces... it's saad... anyways.... It tried differents types of oils, regular, synth, different grades... I feel no difference at all. Car has 90k miles now, but I been dealing with this noise since it was 45k miles old so I'm done.
What is the best think to do?.. get a rebuilt? (done it better than the stock). I heard this engine is piece of sh!it, so I will hate to get a stock used one that will do the same thing again, and again (let's say another d17a1 from a totaled car, for example).
Can I put another engine in here? like any B series?, my transission is working normal, and it's an automatic. I have no clue what to do... if I get a different engine, will it adapt to my AT or a will need to swap the trany too?
I'm okay with the stock D17a1 engine as long as it will be reliable.. I don't know if I just run out of luck with this one, but I will hate to have the same problem again with a stock low milage D17a1 replacement swap. I mean, camo one... I had other civics, sentras, corollas with a whole lot more of miles before that did not develped this nasty problem, it's a shame coming from honda and the fact that i babied this car since i got it with 20k
I know, that puting a different engine will be "more expensive", but what would you recomend?. Is anywhere I can get a stock D17a1m that will make it to 100k without trhowin a rod or something?
Thank you so much for your help.
FRCornelis.-
My 03 lx Sedan with this D17A1 needs replacement... I mean, it still works, but, but.. come on!. the rattle noise from the engine block is driving me crazy. Just accelerating it sound like it has marbles bauncing inside... merging to a freeway make me stress sometimes, since I think it's going to blow in pieces... it's saad... anyways.... It tried differents types of oils, regular, synth, different grades... I feel no difference at all. Car has 90k miles now, but I been dealing with this noise since it was 45k miles old so I'm done.
What is the best think to do?.. get a rebuilt? (done it better than the stock). I heard this engine is piece of sh!it, so I will hate to get a stock used one that will do the same thing again, and again (let's say another d17a1 from a totaled car, for example).
Can I put another engine in here? like any B series?, my transission is working normal, and it's an automatic. I have no clue what to do... if I get a different engine, will it adapt to my AT or a will need to swap the trany too?
I'm okay with the stock D17a1 engine as long as it will be reliable.. I don't know if I just run out of luck with this one, but I will hate to have the same problem again with a stock low milage D17a1 replacement swap. I mean, camo one... I had other civics, sentras, corollas with a whole lot more of miles before that did not develped this nasty problem, it's a shame coming from honda and the fact that i babied this car since i got it with 20k
I know, that puting a different engine will be "more expensive", but what would you recomend?. Is anywhere I can get a stock D17a1m that will make it to 100k without trhowin a rod or something?
Thank you so much for your help.
FRCornelis.-
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From: Marion, NC
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Re: done with this D17A1...
Its probably a valve ticking. If you know how to do it then just do the valve adjustment and see what that does.
And the k series swap is easier than the b series swap in your car and the k series would be better if you did swap.
And the k series swap is easier than the b series swap in your car and the k series would be better if you did swap.
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Rep Power: 0 Re: done with this D17A1...
Well, I did adjust my valves (myself) when I checked (the engine was stone-cold) I didn't change too much the clereance anyways, to me they were fine, I still adjusted some of them with my gap filler (yes, each piston in its own TDC, believeme and the right spec for intek and ex... believe me, I researched but did not change the noise at all. However I must say that I wasn't really sure "how much is too much or too less drag" for the gauge feeler to tell if it was really loose or tight. I might get the special tool the sell out there for adjusting the valves, it should make it al lot easier than using the socket and the screw driver in the middle. I might try again but...
...the noise, is not a ticking... is more like a "deeper sound" down the block.
two mechs listened to it, one says it's a piston slap and that the engine should work anyways regardless the noise... well the noise is driving me crazy... if it is a piston slap?? ,.... shouln't it quite down a bit after the engine is warm?... 'cuase mine, does it all the time, after two hrs of driving. So if it is a piston slap, it should be A REALLY BAD piston slap. If it is a rod or spoun bearing, I think it coundn't last all this 50k miles of noise?....
I was thinking about the "knock sensor??", is's like 60$ on the dealer, but if that is the case, after all this time, the engine is #$%## up anyways for driving so long with a bad knock sensor... I don't know...
it gets realy louder when I have two people in my car and when I have to climb a hill. No oil burning at all, no overheating... I got a Craftsman presure tester kit from sears but I never used it, cause I'm not sure how to do it... manual talks about a "remote starter" o something like that which I don't have... but It will be nice if I could read de PSI on each cylinder. I have the feeling that only three are actully pulling, not 4
who knows... I think I should have gone with that Corolla next to it at the stealership!!!
thanks guy!!... if swap to a K series engine, would me AT tranny work well or it will also need a swap?
thanks a lot!
but did not change the noise at all. However I must say that I wasn't really sure "how much is too much or too less drag" for the gauge feeler to tell if it was really loose or tight. I might get the special tool the sell out there for adjusting the valves, it should make it al lot easier than using the socket and the screw driver in the middle. I might try again but......the noise, is not a ticking... is more like a "deeper sound" down the block.
two mechs listened to it, one says it's a piston slap and that the engine should work anyways regardless the noise... well the noise is driving me crazy... if it is a piston slap?? ,.... shouln't it quite down a bit after the engine is warm?... 'cuase mine, does it all the time, after two hrs of driving. So if it is a piston slap, it should be A REALLY BAD piston slap. If it is a rod or spoun bearing, I think it coundn't last all this 50k miles of noise?....
I was thinking about the "knock sensor??", is's like 60$ on the dealer, but if that is the case, after all this time, the engine is #$%## up anyways for driving so long with a bad knock sensor... I don't know...
it gets realy louder when I have two people in my car and when I have to climb a hill. No oil burning at all, no overheating... I got a Craftsman presure tester kit from sears but I never used it, cause I'm not sure how to do it... manual talks about a "remote starter" o something like that which I don't have... but It will be nice if I could read de PSI on each cylinder. I have the feeling that only three are actully pulling, not 4
who knows... I think I should have gone with that Corolla next to it at the stealership!!!
thanks guy!!... if swap to a K series engine, would me AT tranny work well or it will also need a swap?
thanks a lot!
