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I decided to change my timing belt and everything went smoothly until I got to the crank pulley bolt. I tried an electric impact wrench and heated the bolt and still was not able to get it to budge. I had a friend who offered to loosen the bolt if I could bring the car to him, so I put everything back together and tried to start the car. The car tried to start and then I heard some noise and then it would not even try to start. sounded like no compression, keep in mind that I had not removed the crank pulley bolt. Uh oh. Now I don't have an option. I finally got a 3/4 inch electric impact wrench and after a few more hours of effort, I finally got the bolt off. When I removed the crank pulley, I found the source of some of the noise. The lower timing cover had melted and parts of it had broken. Once I pulled the cover off and checked the TDC marks. The bottom pulley was off by a few teeth. The only thing that i can think of is that some of the plastic from the cover got into the teeth and caused it to slip. I went ahead and replaced the belt, tensioner, water pump crank shaft seal and put it back together. The motor just spins freely when I try to start it. Today I pulled the timing belt off and rotated the bottom pulley 360 just in case it had turned more than a few teeth....same thing. So now it appears that I need to replace some bent valves.

Anyone have any advise on replacing bent valves? Will I need to replace the head gasket? If so, do I have to get a complete head gasket kit? How many valves are likely to be bent? I am getting ready to clean the engine in preparation for removing the valve cover and head.

 
Rep Power: 812

i think you are just gonna have to take the head off and see the damage. so yeah then you will need new gaskets for head, intake, and exhaust mani. it might need more than just valves tho.

 
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This sounds like a really bad day. Be prepared for the worse because as Gearbox stated your going to need all of that just for starters. I think is the manuel it states that you should use a Large breaker bar to the crank shaft bolt. Maybe not using a violent impact wrench??

 
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The impact wrench was not the problem, it was the heat. The impact wrench eliminates the need to hold the pulley which has been known to damage the pulley.

 
Rep Power: 812

well the proper way is to use the removal tool from honda. and the pulley itself should be replaced when doing a timingbelt job anyway. they rarely last more than 60k miles until the rubber damper inside breaks up and you have no harmonic balance.

 
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I don't know what this has to do with replacing bent valves, but if you are somehow trying to tell me I should have done some things different, I think I have gathered that. This is the first I have heard that the pulley has a shorter life than the timing belt.

 
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i was just pointing it out

 
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I use a pneumatic impact to take my pulley off, but it won't budge it if you're using a 12 point socket, if you put a hex socket on it breaks it right loose, the extra surface area that the flats hit increases the torque exerted on the bolt.

 
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I was using a hex socket, I think some are just insanely tight.

 
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You might have better luck with an air impact, not sure what they have for electrics nowadays, but I think pneumatic ones have more *****. Mine is rather powerful, and it still struggles a little to get that bolt out.