Rep Power: 0

ok so about 3 days ago my battery light flickers for a while and then comes on. It does nothing to the car though, still runs fine. I figure it is just a mistake and will have to check it out when I have time. Unfortunately yesterday when in high rev, about 4500-5000 rpm my check engine light comes on, car backfires and dies down and I am unable to accelerate fast. I am able to make it home very slowly not able to rev over about 3000 rpm. I let it sit all day, and this morning I was going to drive to get a diagnostics done on it but it started up and drove fine. About half way there the CEL went off but the battery light is still there. I didn't end up going to the auto store because it went off. Is that code still readable, and what do ya'll think the problem is. Any suggestions would be great as this is my daily driver and I need it running.
Thanks
Ryan

 
Rep Power: 318

Okay, here is my guess as to what happen: Your battery is dead, probably won't hold a charge or something (or it could be your alternator), in any case get the battery checked ASAP. Do you have any problems starting the car? Do you have any extra audio equipment or anything that pulls extra current beyond a normal load?


When you are revving high, you can pull a pretty high current, sometimes your car looks to the battery for extra power. In this case though the car didn't have it and couldn't produce enough spark to ignite the gas, so you had a little gas go out through the heads and catch on fire and boom, you got a backfire. The code you saw was probably the result of this, it could be a super rich mixture reading from the O2 sensor and a misfire code. Either way it can still be read. But the code is just the result of a bigger problem, either the battery or alternator is going. Get these checked ASAP. If you go to Autozone or something, you can get it checked out for free.

Hope this helps, and good luck and keep us posted on what is wrong.

 
Rep Power: 452

Let me know what the code is and I can give you some diagnosis ffrom the honda service manaul.

Good thing there are autozones everywhere, for me it is like a free mini shop. they check batteries, alternators, ignition modules, everything all for free. It would be the ultimate if they would actual replace all the stuff.

 
Rep Power: 318

If they replaced the stuff

 
Rep Power: 452

yea I know, I suck at saying stuff.

 
Rep Power: 318

No, I was saying when autozone replaces the stuff you buy I will to them... I said it wrong

 
Rep Power: 452

oh, LOL. see I even *** **** up that other people say.

 
Rep Power: 0

I have an optima yellow top and I have absolutely no problem starting the car and it now drives fine and I can turn my system up and everything like normal. The battery light is still on but the CEL light went off. So you are saying that the code is still stored in the system and I can still pull it even though it went away. Also, what other ideas do you have other than the alternator or battery because neither of them seem to be ther problem.
Ryan

 
Rep Power: 452

whenever a trouble code pops up, that code is stored in the ECU's memory untill erased. so even if the light goes off, the code is still stored. Hook up an OBD 2 scanner and it should read the code for you.

I would get the code checked out first though, it might be on due to why the check engine light came on. Find out what it is.

 
Rep Power: 318

Yeah, if you're certain the battery and alternator are good, get the code and let us know what it is. From there we can get a better idea. Also do yo have any audio modifications? Even a diferent head unit?

 
Rep Power: 0

the code that popped up was code 1361 ignition missfire? Any guesses as to what would be the cause?

 
Rep Power: 452

The code you were given isnt for a misfire. misfire codes are P0300-P0304. And there are no ignition misfire codes, its either a random misfire detected or a misfire in cylinder 1, 2, 3, or 4. Code P1361 is Top dead center (TDC) sensor intermittent Interuption.

 
Rep Power: 0

ok well how would I fix that. Right now I can drive the car very conservatively but the battery light is on. If I get on it then the car backfires and the CEL light comes on and it drives like **** until I let it sit for a day or reset by disconnecting battery. Any help is appreciated.
Ryan

 
Rep Power: 452

We already told you what to do. The problem is has to do with why the check engine light comes on. So when that light comes on, take it to autozone to have the code checked out. stop disconnecting the battery and have it looked at.

here read this

http://www.7thgencivic.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=223977

 
Rep Power: 0

I did that and that is what the code 1361 came from. It is the same code the 2 times that it happened this past week. Now I know that it means top dead center sensor malfunction but I dont know what would cause that. Any ideas for what caused this CEL light to come on?

 
Rep Power: 318

1. bad sensor
2. your timing is off.

I'm betting on number 1 though.

 
Rep Power: 0

ok I was thinking it could just be a bad sensor but I dont know anything about the TDC sensor or how to replace it or even test it. Does anyone else know? Also would that cause my battery light to come on?

 
Rep Power: 318

No, I'm not sure how to test it either, sorry. I don't have the service manual with me at the moment. As for the battery light, I don't see a connection between the two yet. I will check as soon as I can though to see. If you get a hold of a manual though, check what to do with the battery light and sensor, thay may be related.

 
Rep Power: 0

well I have another interesting side note for you, last month I had to have my fuel pump replaced because it quit on me and ever since I have been getting horrible gas mileage, 25.6 mpg calculated this morning. Now all of this CEL and battery light coming on. Do you think all of this is somehow related? Also does anyone have any idea on what could have caused the gas mileage to go down so much, I used to get about 33 mpg.
p.s. it is 100+ degrees right now

 
Rep Power: 452

Well a bit later I can go through my service manaul and give you some diagnosis for the problem. I also have to give some diagnosis for a tranny problem to another member but if you are patient, I can go through it for you. It will be a bit though.

As far as the gas mileage, check the obvious stuff first, check your air filter, when was the last time your spark plugs were replaced, also same with the oil. What you can also do is pull out the spark plugs and check them, that is the easiest was to see what is happening in the engine, maybe you are running to rich. the spark plugs will be black if you are running rich.

 
Rep Power: 452

ok, first things first, do you have access to a DMM ( digital multimeter ). I am not going to post some of these diagnosis tips unless you have one because most of the diagnosing invloves checking voltages at the sensor or checking continuity of wires. So let me know and I can start posting the tips.

 
Rep Power: 0

ok I will check with some of the guys here and see if we have a digital mulitmeter or access to one. I will let you know as soon as I find one

 
Rep Power: 318

If you don't have one, you may want to buy one, they cost about $30 for decnet one and come useful for alot more stuff than just checking sensors and stuff, I use them to check outlets at home and everyhting.

 
Rep Power: 0

ok I can get a DMM, how do I go about testing the TDC sensor? And where is it located? Thanks

 
Rep Power: 452

ok, the TDC sensor is located behind the upper cover on the right side of the cylinder head. To remove thr sensor, you have to remove the valve cover and side cover and then you will be able to remove it. the sensor kinda looks like an x or T figure.

But first things first, reset the ECU. and then start the car and check if the codes P1361 or P1362 are indicated. If they arent, you had an intermitent failure, and your car is ok. now if the code is there, turn the ignition switch off and disconnect the TDC sensor 3P connecter, then turn the ignition switch to the second position, the on position and measure the voltage between the TDC sensor 3P connecter terminal number 3 and body ground. The wire that you are cheking is the yellow/black wire. The manaul says to check it on the wire side of the female terminals, but if you dont have a probing set, just touch the lead to the terminal side, pretty much is the same thing. Now is there battery voltage? if there isnt, repair the open in the wire between the PGM FI main relay 1 and the TDC sensor. If there is battery voltage, measure the voltage between the number 2 terminal and body ground. Is there About 5 volts? the number 2 terminal has a green wire.

If there is, measure the voltage between terminal number 1 and terminal number 3. the number 3 terminal has a brown/yellow wire. If there wasnt 5 volts, measure voltage between ECM/PCM connecter terminal A26 and body ground. It is the connecter with 30 terminals/wires. You will be probing the green wire. Located 5 terminals over from the left of the connecter.

Now if there was battery voltage between terminal number 1 and terminal number 3, substitute a known good sensor and recheck. If the code comes back, then Update the ECM or substitute a known good one and if the problem goes away, replace the Original ecu. Now if the code is not indicated, replace the original sensor.

and if there isnt battery voltage between terminal 1 and 3, repair the open in the wire between the TDC sensor and G101 (a ground ).

Now do the testing from there and if you are confused about any of that, let me know. And also if you understand and test everything and you end up having to test at the ECU, let me know because there is more testing from this point. Just want to see if the problem is found before that point.

 
Rep Power: 0

thanks for all of that. I will see if I can find the problem from all of that and post my results