summary of short and long threads
#1
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ok so i have a NHBP Civic Coupe, and all I've been doing is washing it ever since i bought it back in sept of 2005. no wax, no glaze, just been using car wash soap and rags. now im seeing major damages to my car. the plastics in between the door and the roof up top is turning this orange color and my paint looks like its had fights with millions of cats (many scratches) some are deep some are not. so ive been eyeing this forum alot and read the long threads as well as the short ones and this is what ive summarized, suggestions and comments welcome and dont forget! did nothing special besides normal car wash
*wash-like al ways do i have a Blue Coral High Foam car soap i use
*then clay bar-to help take all the little stuff out which im sure i have
*wash again to clean off the residue and stuff
*use Meguiar's ScratchX but use what to apply it?
*then use microfiber towel to buff it off and buff means what???
*use The Meguiar show car glaze 7
*then leave it or buff it (still dont know what buff means)
*and then wax it down with whatever i see people use the most
i also ran into this???
http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker...EMQR%7C%7Etrue
that like practically sums up everything i just did in one if it really works doesnt it???
sorry for the much needed help but thats what 7thgen's here for right?
rep to anyone that helps
*wash-like al ways do i have a Blue Coral High Foam car soap i use
*then clay bar-to help take all the little stuff out which im sure i have
*wash again to clean off the residue and stuff
*use Meguiar's ScratchX but use what to apply it?
*then use microfiber towel to buff it off and buff means what???
*use The Meguiar show car glaze 7
*then leave it or buff it (still dont know what buff means)
*and then wax it down with whatever i see people use the most
i also ran into this???
http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker...EMQR%7C%7Etrue
that like practically sums up everything i just did in one if it really works doesnt it???
sorry for the much needed help but thats what 7thgen's here for right?
rep to anyone that helps
#3
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Rep Power: 253 Or www.autopia.org for more info in paint care.
#4
Don't be a n00b, search ftw
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Rep Power: 322 Buff = the "Wax Off" part. Basically, take a soft cloth, and rub the wax off until you can see yourself in the paint
As far as the wax I use, I get the store bought Zymol stuff. Even if it doesn't do the best job, at least my car smells like a Pina Colada for a day or two
As far as the wax I use, I get the store bought Zymol stuff. Even if it doesn't do the best job, at least my car smells like a Pina Colada for a day or two
Last edited by 01hondercivic; 05-20-2006 at 03:08 PM.
#5
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Rep Power: 227 whatever attracts the ladies right? lol rep awarded, and thus far the plan stays
wash
clay
wash
scratchX
buff
paint cleaner
buff
show car glaze
buff
then finally wax
sounds alright?
wash
clay
wash
scratchX
buff
paint cleaner
buff
show car glaze
buff
then finally wax
sounds alright?
#6
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Rep Power: 0 "buffing" is not actually waxing... you use a 'cut' to "buff". There are different levels of 'cut' that you use depending on what you need. Someone once told me it's often alot like wet sanding in a way. This helps get rid of smaller scratches and brings out the true paint alittle more. Actual "buffing" is harder to do... and if not done right can ruin your paint even more. I may be wrong but this is what i was taught when being showed how to do recon work.
You can pick up a rotary waxer almost anywhere for like no more than $40 it will be your best friend.
my ride is nhb too... and i've started to use Meguiar's 3 stage cause i picked it up cheap and i'm gonna use it till it's gone... it's not too bad. And i use Final Inspection inbetween waxes.
You can pick up a rotary waxer almost anywhere for like no more than $40 it will be your best friend.
my ride is nhb too... and i've started to use Meguiar's 3 stage cause i picked it up cheap and i'm gonna use it till it's gone... it's not too bad. And i use Final Inspection inbetween waxes.
Last edited by RedBull; 05-20-2006 at 11:00 PM.
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Rep Power: 227 aaaah, so then what you recommend is a that rotary waxer which is like a safer and reduced speed from a buffer?? and if you dont mind typing up ur steps when you did it..thanks or did you just use Megs 3 stage cuz like i mentioned i havent done n-ething special since about september and i thinks it time to bring my paint back to life haha
thanks
thanks
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Rep Power: 0 "buffing" uses a 'cut compound' here this helps alittle... from what i've learned there are 3 major stages: buffing, polishing, waxing....
Buffing:
The rotary buffer, on the other hand, because of its high speed and continuous motion over a single point, causes much more concentrated friction and heat. It is the heat and friction that gives this machine its advantage over the DA machine. The heat softens the paint so that the friction can work quickly and effectively to remove defects. It is also the reason why the rotary can cause much more damage in the paint in a very short period of time. In the final finishing step, the heat allows a burnishing effect--kind of a "melting" of the paint--that allows correction of minor paint damage left over from the major cutting steps, yielding a high and deep gloss finish.
a orbital/rotary buffer is different from a orbital/rotary waxer.... buffing is not actually waxing... and the pads/covers used for each are different.
I used a three stage cut process at my work to do my buffing... i think Eureka makes the product, it's like Megabyte, Gigabyte something or other. Then i use the polish and then i use what's normally called 'yellow' wax... what you find in most car waxes. Alot of people confuse wiping off the compounds from the car for 'buffing'. When i first started to do reconditioning work i'd always get yelled at cause i'd say i'm gonna buff the wax off....
The Megs three stage comes with a cleaner, polish, and wax... and it's not the best... but it's a complete setup for someone starting out.
If anyone has anything to add/correct.. please do.... i'm still pretty fresh to all of this.
Buffing:
The rotary buffer, on the other hand, because of its high speed and continuous motion over a single point, causes much more concentrated friction and heat. It is the heat and friction that gives this machine its advantage over the DA machine. The heat softens the paint so that the friction can work quickly and effectively to remove defects. It is also the reason why the rotary can cause much more damage in the paint in a very short period of time. In the final finishing step, the heat allows a burnishing effect--kind of a "melting" of the paint--that allows correction of minor paint damage left over from the major cutting steps, yielding a high and deep gloss finish.
a orbital/rotary buffer is different from a orbital/rotary waxer.... buffing is not actually waxing... and the pads/covers used for each are different.
I used a three stage cut process at my work to do my buffing... i think Eureka makes the product, it's like Megabyte, Gigabyte something or other. Then i use the polish and then i use what's normally called 'yellow' wax... what you find in most car waxes. Alot of people confuse wiping off the compounds from the car for 'buffing'. When i first started to do reconditioning work i'd always get yelled at cause i'd say i'm gonna buff the wax off....
The Megs three stage comes with a cleaner, polish, and wax... and it's not the best... but it's a complete setup for someone starting out.
If anyone has anything to add/correct.. please do.... i'm still pretty fresh to all of this.
#9
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Rep Power: 257 "Buff" just means to polish or shine with a soft material. It does not matter how you do it or what you do it with nor does it matter what you are doing it to.
Last edited by jackburton; 05-21-2006 at 12:57 AM.
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