Rep Power: 243

hey guys .. so here's my wierd story boost or not related i posted it cuz its affecting me boosting !

So friday im driving home from work all excited its the weekend and i look down and see my battery light on ... :S so im like hmm wierd wierd .. then two mins later ... car starts behaving wieeerd during idle .. very lean like 16.6-17.2 but yet seems fine .. i mean it wasn't shakey or like stalling .. its jus i have a wideband and i saw it. So knowing its electrical i turned off my radio and jus wanted to get her home (5 mins away at this point). So when i was driving this 5 mins ... everything seemed fine like when driving the afr's were good ... 13-14 at cruise .. and 11s-12.2 at boost ... but i get jerks jerks jerks .. afr's don't change or drop ... even at cruise or in boost but i get a jerk like studder a quick stall feel i hope u guys can understand what i mean by this. So i don't boost and i get home.

This is when i get to work to find out what the problem is .. my mechanic said my alternator had probably gone so i figured yah ... maybe but why is the engine behaving wierd :S .. i called my machine shop and he said most likely there isn't enough volts at idle and it has a weak idle .. but in boost u generate more volts so afr's are good. Im like ok ok ... still don't understand that jerk motion while driving ... so saturday i get her to the shop and my mechanic is like yah ur alternator has gone so i got a new one and went to pick up the car.

i start the engine and battery light is off so im like woo hooo .. i begin driving .. and again ... 17 idle .. hmm .. :S im like fukk then the same jerk while driving . randommmmmmmmm times .. even around 2500 rpm .. I called my tuner and he said maybe ur ecu has to jus learn try resetting it tonight and see what happens. So i did that and now its Wednesday .. and nothing has changed. The only hope i saw was on monday for 2-3 hours everything began being smooth so i thought maybe my ecu adjusted .. 14.7 idle no jerks.. but then disappointment hit me. When i approach a light .. the afr gauge shows ------ then 17.2 and goes to ~16.6-8 .. again while driving afr's are fine but i get that jerk random spots ... worries me to boost ... i try here and there jus to see .. and afrs are soliiiiid 11.7.

The only thing i can thing is causing this is ... a) the tune has gone bad which my tuner / mechanic said not likely ...
or b) spark plugs .. cuz of the jerks .. but then spark plugs don't explain the 17 afr idle ... thats why this is wierd

Help me please ... I know someone has a solution with all the experience on this forum

Thanks in advance

 
Rep Power: 317

sorry, i can't help....i just replaced my battery last month...dealership was surprised i still had the original battery in there! 6 years, and 83,000 miles! (it'd be 7k less, but i drove to north carolina and pennsylvania in mar-apr from california)

 
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lol thanks for the post bump for some turbo expert help

 
Rep Power: 280

What system you using to tune emangle?

 
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Except for the studder that all sounds normal of a piggyback system...emange or not.....My AFR's are never steady except under boost. My stock computer is constantly fighting the tune. As for the studder I'd check basics....idle relearn, check plugs, check tune, etc.....step by step slowing eliminating each area......

 
Rep Power: 349

Sounds like a potential ground issue. Kpro or AEM? I've seen people have some really stupid issue because they didn't pay attention and used non-resistor type spark plugs. Make sure your plugs are resistor type.

But if that all checks out, it's a crap shoot man. You have to figure out why your afr's are changing by datalog. You must be running closed loop, right?

This is exactly why I don't run closed loop....

Oh and I very seriously doubt he's making 196 whp at 6 psi on a piggyback....

 
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Oh and I very seriously doubt he's making 196 whp at 6 psi on a piggyback....

^i did

 
Rep Power: 349

Yep, I just about believe you because you're so knowledgeable and credible....

 
Rep Power: 243

Yep Im tuned with the AEM FIC and kpro is going in 3 weeks .. i think there is a ground problem too what would i check for andy.. ?? Im switching my spark plugs with the NGK IRIDIUM 2 step colder... hopefully tat will fix the problem.. what do u guys think ?? Why would I lie about making 196 on a dynojet with one cold pull.. i was tuned at 181 on a dynapack4000 which reads 10-15% lower PROVEN here in Toronto. I have video/dyno if u wanna see its so dum to lie about such a thing .. wtf anyway back to my problem

 
Rep Power: 243

I made 196 on a dynojet with one cold pull i don't have a video of this- i was tuned at 181 on thedynapack4000 which reads 10-15% lower PROVEN .. there is a research test with the same car on the same day within minutes getting towed to compare the numnbers made on the dynapack vs the dynojet here... (there is a video of this by the way) created by my tuner to PROVE THIS SPECIFICALLY since he has the biggest perfomance shop in Toronto usng the dynapack4000... So if you don't belive i made 181 on the dynapack which should prove to u i made 196 n the dynojet then i can scan my dyno or post my video .. heck ill even do it right now this is something so stupid to lie about lmao .. u think i care to lie what people on the forum think my power is? such a shock for u to actually think that .. and think im lying .. wtf anyway back to my problem and ur comment was so irrelevant and off topic

DYNO VIDEO COMPARISON DYNAPACK VS DYNO JET

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UZXbk3o-xHg

MY VIDEO MAKING 181 WHP

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xxQKV-LBFA4

--- i really love u guys on the forums and u are all angels to me i swear . srry if i was rude, it jus caught m off guard thinkin i would lie, i have nothing but love for u andy and ur help is sooooo good u have no idea

 
Rep Power: 243

by the way -- i still love u and maybe u can say u take it back lol

 
Rep Power: 349

I wasn't even talking to you emjay, I was talking to asshat_civic with his 34 posts. I would find it hard to believe that a stock d17a2 with a bolt on turbo kit and piggyback would make that kind of power on that little boost, but it depends on exactly how you're set up. I guess with the right combination of parts, it's doable...

 
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ohhhhhh shittt i didn't know ur talking to him lol yah man .. its all on the tune .. at first i made 164 and ran 178 on the dynojet (remember when i said i step on it, its 10.0 then leans out to 11.7 and u guys all said ur tuner suuuux and i should change, 10.0 is way too rich) ... then retuned with dynamotorsports.ca and got 181 and ran 196 (MORE RELIABLE) on the dynojet.. definately doable!!

Dezod V3 Kit
3" straight through exhaust
AEM F/IC
SRT-4 Injectors
2.5" open dump (not restricting exhaust)
Exedy Stage 1 Organic
AEM Tru Boost and AEM wideband

pretty rockin setup if u ask me

 
Rep Power: 349

Ok, 3" exhaust, that's going to be a massive help. Doe the V3 kit have the race manifold?

 
Rep Power: 243

no .. the v3 kit doesn't come with the race mani ... i have the log which is shitty for me going big .. but w/e ill have to suffer with the higher range power loss when i build .. but i waanna do a nice build .. car goes in Aug.4th

K1 Rods
Weisco Pistons
ARP rod bolts
All gaskets replaced (head, intake etc)
Port n Polish head
Stage II Crower Turbo cam
Crower springs and retainers
D16Y8 Intake manifold w/ d16 fuel rail converted to a return setup
Stage 4 Clutchmaster clutch
KPRO w/ AEM modified cam gear
780cc Precision Injectors

Im happy and i plan to make 250-300 whp although im gona have a pretty nice build.. for now until i have enought money to replace my manifold with the race + get the JDM Fab + upgrade turbo to gt30 next summer to go for 400+

-- now seriously this problem of mine ... the engine is jolting more and more these days as i drive ... im in second at 2 grand picking up speed .. vrooooooom studder roooooooooom

 
Rep Power: 349

Get rid of the piggyback.
/Help

 
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emjay
whos your mechanic?
where do you do your dynotunning/

 
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@andy, lol, dude seriously stop bieng a ***** all the time, if u know some **** about this d17 it doesnt mean no one else would....grow a pair

 
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heck, i would even post my dyno sheet up if i wouldnt have blown my engine the very next day due to some idiot, no point keeping history eh? we'll see once its done again

and secondly, about the 34 posts, make it 36 now, and yes civicforums.com isnt my first discussion forum, and third, theres a thing called reading and remaining silent, posting up wudnt widen my wisdom and knowledge as of urs now wud it?

 
Rep Power: 243

civcpool - my mechanic is Ivan at igarage but he's my mechanic, he doesn't deal with my turbo stuff ... for that i go to dynamotorsports .. graham is the builder, tony is the tuner

andy kpro is going in 3 weeks ... but until then i wanted to fix the problem so i can drive this bitch ... i never had one problem with my F/IC till now .. -- IF even it is FIC related

@ahad civic why did u blow ur motor a day after tuning? it doesn't count if u make 190 something and it blows.. im sure ur knowledgable guy and ur gona do a good job with ur project but i've been at 196 for 9 months with no headaches, never poped a HG .. i guess its all thanx to my solid tune

 
Rep Power: 349

Quit being modest, you know my pair's too big to even fit in your mouth, you tried....

emjay, it's definitely f/ic related, trust me. It's a closed loop issue, I'd bet money on it.

 
Rep Power: 243

dammm F/IC related eh ... hmm so what should i do ?? get my tuner to datalog ? and what are those spikes/studders .. afr's don't go lean at all... its wierd...and idle is consistantly in the 17s now.

andy u saying u hate closed loop, don't u have to run the kpro in closed loop to make it work with 01-03 d17? when wiring it? i think i read that on hondata

 
Rep Power: 349

Nope, I'm not running any o2 sensors into kpro. Just park the car or deal with the issues until you get a real computer.

 
Rep Power: 243

ok so i went to my tuner .. and we dumped fuel on idle and now its idling 13s which is better.. he said most likely the weather change screwed up ur tune .. the spikes got a lil less .. i started boosting her tonight, everything is a lil smoother. Monday im going to his shop for him to gap my spark plugs until 3 weeks when kpro goes in

 
Rep Power: 243

oh and by the way im not running any o2 sensors either and im not in closed loop andy i asked my tuner

 
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I know a lot of the problems have been found already, but check your main alternator wire. My downpipe cooked the **** out of mine and I had to move it. Solved most of my electrical problems.

 
Rep Power: 243

i changed my alternator already but next time my car is on the hoise ill check for that thanks foos i never even knew that could be a problem :S lol .... now i get the meaning that turbo cars are headaches .. but these are fun headaches that jus make u learn ur car better and become more knowledgable .. its so fun to be down for 2-3 days get her fixed and boost again .. its like .. JOY

 
Rep Power: 327

have you tried reloading your map in the f/ic? Maybe your map got corrupted?? The end all to all tune related problems is not kpro/aem. After all your doing 196whp on a piggyback and thats juts not possible!

 
Rep Power: 243

nope map is fine, tuner checked that but im pretty sure it is the F/IC, we dumped fuel to fix the lean idle and the spike got less ... i dunno .. i couldn't care less, kpro is going in 3 weeks. 181whp on a dynopack 5.5 psi check out my vid .. besides who cares about what number u make .. u go on the dyno to tune, seeing numbers is jus the bonus

 
Rep Power: 261

piggybacks suck to a point..... Emanage and F/IC are not total wastes. Alot of the time it is the person tuning. My emanage runs very good considering...it took alot of seat time and helpful advise...mostly tnaaf's......I think the same goes for the F/IC.....it bet you could still get a nice daily driver off a f/ic....but we know what works......but what works is $1000+