The 7thGen Nitrous FAQ.
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Originally Posted by EternalBlue_Vic
From what i hear dude the dry kits are WAY too dangerous. Running a danger of having an uneven about of nitrous in each cylinder plus the issue with the factory fuel pump not being able to supply the extra needed fuel, if i remember right something about our injectors or SOMETHING thats has a return feed..........meaning the extra fuel would be routed back to the tank or pump. Then that would cause ur engine to run lean (i think) and lean+nitrous-->BOOM! Long story short, me and coutless other 7thgen-ers would HIGHLY recommend a wet kit. The extra needed fuel gets mixed and atomized in the spray in your intake runners. Wet kits are a little more pricey, but would you rather spend a few extra hundred dollars or a few grand replacing your engine? If i'm wrong or too vauge about anything above then somebody please correct me. Oh, and yes, if you still do stick with the dry kit then yes, you can intall it onto your stock airbox, but most peeps would recommend on upgrading your intake.
also the shot is based off of a full bottle. as you use it you wont feel as much of a punch. i think the recommend pressure is 900psi <dont quote me on that>
I would also recommend a blow-down kit. the n2o bottle has a burst disk that will blow in an extreme pressure situation the blow down will keep you from being exposed to it in the car. It diverts the gas out of your trunk.
All you need to do to change your fuel deficiency is a FPR <b&m makes one>
If you are not going over 55shot you dont really need to worry about going lean. 35-55 shot should be fine on stock inj and stock fuel pump.
anything over 55 you should prolly either go wet OR get bigger injectors.
I have a friend with a 99si on a 75 dryshot stock injectors and he has 0 issues. He has the FPR tho so he can correct any fuel mix issues he has.
If you are REALLY worried about it or want some crazy *** power do a motor swap and build it out.
and I am pretty sure higher compression pistons will help with the n2o
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Originally Posted by 98oRange
Dry shots are just that. DRY, the air going into your car is cooled tremendously by the n2o <like a fridge> and it is the colder air that causes an increase of power more than the actual n2o itself.
also the shot is based off of a full bottle. as you use it you wont feel as much of a punch. i think the recommend pressure is 900psi <dont quote me on that>
I would also recommend a blow-down kit. the n2o bottle has a burst disk that will blow in an extreme pressure situation the blow down will keep you from being exposed to it in the car. It diverts the gas out of your trunk.
All you need to do to change your fuel deficiency is a FPR <b&m makes one>
If you are not going over 55shot you dont really need to worry about going lean. 35-55 shot should be fine on stock inj and stock fuel pump.
anything over 55 you should prolly either go wet OR get bigger injectors.
I have a friend with a 99si on a 75 dryshot stock injectors and he has 0 issues. He has the FPR tho so he can correct any fuel mix issues he has.
If you are REALLY worried about it or want some crazy *** power do a motor swap and build it out.
and I am pretty sure higher compression pistons will help with the n2o
also the shot is based off of a full bottle. as you use it you wont feel as much of a punch. i think the recommend pressure is 900psi <dont quote me on that>
I would also recommend a blow-down kit. the n2o bottle has a burst disk that will blow in an extreme pressure situation the blow down will keep you from being exposed to it in the car. It diverts the gas out of your trunk.
All you need to do to change your fuel deficiency is a FPR <b&m makes one>
If you are not going over 55shot you dont really need to worry about going lean. 35-55 shot should be fine on stock inj and stock fuel pump.
anything over 55 you should prolly either go wet OR get bigger injectors.
I have a friend with a 99si on a 75 dryshot stock injectors and he has 0 issues. He has the FPR tho so he can correct any fuel mix issues he has.
If you are REALLY worried about it or want some crazy *** power do a motor swap and build it out.
and I am pretty sure higher compression pistons will help with the n2o
You sound like you're a little lost in the n2o department...if you're suggesting that a dry kit is a better choice for our 7th gens and is just as safe as a wet kit, I'm sorry but I think you're outta your fvckin mind. Using a dry kit on our 7th gens does cause our a/f to lean out. Ask anyone on the board here who has ever used one. A wet kit doesnt require a FPR on our cars either. I can bet your friend HAS encountered a couple issues along the way using his dry kit on his SI regardless of what he has told you. Also, I can run my bottle damn near empty and still get just had hard of a punch out of it as I can when its full as long as the bottle pressure is high enough.
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Originally Posted by thiscrackerntam
You sound like you're a little lost in the n2o department...if you're suggesting that a dry kit is a better choice for our 7th gens and is just as safe as a wet kit, I'm sorry but I think you're outta your fvckin mind. Using a dry kit on our 7th gens does cause our a/f to lean out. Ask anyone on the board here who has ever used one. A wet kit doesnt require a FPR on our cars either. I can bet your friend HAS encountered a couple issues along the way using his dry kit on his SI regardless of what he has told you. Also, I can run my bottle damn near empty and still get just had hard of a punch out of it as I can when its full as long as the bottle pressure is high enough.
Have you had any dyno time to tune your a/f ratio??
wet 50 and 35 causes our cars to run really rich, around 15.8,I had to use a 50 shot nitrous jet and a 35 shot fuel jet to get a a/f ratio of 14.7, which IMO is still to rich. You could easily get away with using a dry 35 shot using no fuel mods, a/f ratio may be a little on the lean side, but not enough to cause detonation.
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Originally Posted by DIZZLE
Have you had any dyno time to tune your a/f ratio??
wet 50 and 35 causes our cars to run really rich, around 15.8,I had to use a 50 shot nitrous jet and a 35 shot fuel jet to get a a/f ratio of 14.7, which IMO is still to rich. You could easily get away with using a dry 35 shot using no fuel mods, a/f ratio may be a little on the lean side, but not enough to cause detonation.
wet 50 and 35 causes our cars to run really rich, around 15.8,I had to use a 50 shot nitrous jet and a 35 shot fuel jet to get a a/f ratio of 14.7, which IMO is still to rich. You could easily get away with using a dry 35 shot using no fuel mods, a/f ratio may be a little on the lean side, but not enough to cause detonation.
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Originally Posted by TheSmuggler
I got a quick question. If I bought the 55 shot ZEX kit, and armed it, since I have an auto, i'm always on wot when racing lol. Is there gonna be a problem here, something i should take careful note of?
N2O NooB questions:
Can activating the a N2O shot right when you launch with an auto hurt? In what way if any?
Can us auto guys flip the switch of the wet kit at a light when we are stopped, and then when he hit WOT the system will activate? Will this hurt the engine in any way?
What other precautions would us lowly auto guys have to take if we want to spray?
Do all kits come with a remote bottle opener?
<thanks>
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From: CENTRAL FLORIDA
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Sombody mentioned if you can use ur factory fuel line/pump to feed your wet system. I have a 04 Civic EX and I had to install a inline fuel pump to help the system run in the sweet spot. By using your stock line you will run lean, I ran a50 and 75. Clutch, will go in no time specially w/ a 75. It sucks too my car only has 7,000 miles :-(
P.s. I run a NOS wet system with remote opener, purge, a/f guage.
P.s. I run a NOS wet system with remote opener, purge, a/f guage.
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From: ventura.camarillo
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Originally Posted by Civic_RedLine
denso iridium ik20 plugs are more than enough to use. I personally went to vic edelbrock headquarters and asked them if this was ok and they said yes its more than ok.
you shouldn't use any type of precious metals when using nitrous. stick with copper plugs, ngk coppers are fine.
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I know that 'Wet' Nitrous contains both Nitrous and fuel (helps to keep correct AF ratios), but I'm wondering where the fuel comes from? (Do you need ot tap into the cars fuel line, or is it actuualy mixed within the tank?) from the pictures I've seen of kits, it looks like there's 2 lines (usually red and blue) that feed into the nozzle...so I'd assumed that the fuel line is coming from the car's fuel line-is this right?
One more Q:
is there a way to install more than one nozzle, say a 35 and 50 shot, so I can switch between the two depending on who I'm runnign against?
thanks!
One more Q:
is there a way to install more than one nozzle, say a 35 and 50 shot, so I can switch between the two depending on who I'm runnign against?
thanks!
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One more Q:
How important is a heater for the N2O tank? (I live in San Francisco...not too cold or hot). Is the heater mainly to increase pressure when the tank starts to get low...I'm assumign when the tanks full, the pressure regulator will maintain the correct pressure, but as the tank pressure drops delowe the regulator pressure, you'd start looseing the full effect. Is that right?
How important is a heater for the N2O tank? (I live in San Francisco...not too cold or hot). Is the heater mainly to increase pressure when the tank starts to get low...I'm assumign when the tanks full, the pressure regulator will maintain the correct pressure, but as the tank pressure drops delowe the regulator pressure, you'd start looseing the full effect. Is that right?
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From: ventura.camarillo
Rep Power: 0 yes the fuel line.. is tapped directly from the car's fuel line then goes to the fuel solenoid.. unless you want to run another pump going to the fuel solenoid. and the fuel and nitrous dont mix until its ejected from the tip of the fogger..
now you can have a direct port or even a 2 stage nitrous system.. but as far as two different nozzles jetted differently, it would probably be less of a hassle and more cost efficient to just change the jets in the fogger before racing if you only want two nozzles to be able to switch between say a 35 and 50 shot..
importance of the bottle heater depends on you.. the less pressure, the less efficient nitrous is.. i think up in san francisco.. you're bottle will probably not be at the right pressure very often, especially at night. those bottle warmers get pretty hot.
now you can have a direct port or even a 2 stage nitrous system.. but as far as two different nozzles jetted differently, it would probably be less of a hassle and more cost efficient to just change the jets in the fogger before racing if you only want two nozzles to be able to switch between say a 35 and 50 shot..
importance of the bottle heater depends on you.. the less pressure, the less efficient nitrous is.. i think up in san francisco.. you're bottle will probably not be at the right pressure very often, especially at night. those bottle warmers get pretty hot.
Is this a wet or dry kit? Venom VCN-1000 Honda Nitrous System available on Ebay.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=42604
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=42604
AKA Mr. 60ft. Not to be confused with Civic_Redline
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From: Barksdale AF Base LA
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Originally Posted by Overboost
^^^^ Interested in this system but I need to find out if it's a Dry or Wet kit and the seller doesn't know himself, Can someone help me out?
Originally Posted by 01WingsWestCivic
Q: I want to run a 100 shot, what do I need?
A: A different car or engine. Seriously though, the 100 shot is possible with a lot of money and patience. If you try to run a 100 shot you WILL be taking the bus. In order to get there, you would need to build your internals. The common things you would need are a new intake manifold, rods, pistons, cam, etc.. If I am leaving anything you deem pertinent out, please feel free to add.
D17a2 sleeved and bored to 77mm with blockguard installed
Eagle rods
Diamond 77mm forged pistons 9.1:1 CR
Polished stock crank
Crower Reground cam
PnP head with stainless valves
Custom head gasket
I know the stock intake manifold wont pass but what about ignition timing??? And for the fuel question ... I already have emanage installed but it is currently running on all stock settings ... Any ideas??? Don't know how plausible the idea is but my brother asked and now I'm a little curious ... Any takers?
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From: ventura.camarillo
Rep Power: 0 do you mean with or without the turbo? well.. if you do it.. your best bet is getting it tuned on a dyno.. i would suggest retard the timing and going direct port. also think about fuel delivery thats your biggest issue i would think.. if your turbo'd you might want the nitrous on its own fuel pump depending if you've got big boost or not
Originally Posted by myGFgottaCIV
do you mean with or without the turbo? well.. if you do it.. your best bet is getting it tuned on a dyno.. i would suggest retard the timing and going direct port. also think about fuel delivery thats your biggest issue i would think..
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Rep Power: 0 I have a question i bought a dry system for my 02 lx and then found out about our fvcked fuel system in your opions would it just be better to get a conversion kit and make it wet if so what do you have to do to the fuel sys to get a wet kit to work 55 shot
