Fuel system converted today - LOTS of PICS *56K go for a walk*
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From: Zulu Alpha Tango Foxtrot
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Fuel system converted today - LOTS of PICS *56K go for a walk* I installed the Aeromotive FPR yesterday, todays task is to actually install the pump, return line, and fuel rail. Its going to be a bitch, I'm assuming. I think I have everything I need, of course I'll find out half way through the job if I don't! I'm going to try and document as much of it as I can (in terms of installing the pump, etc), and post some photos for you all to see.....
Wish me luck!
Wish me luck!
Last edited by opto_isolator; Feb 22, 2004 at 07:33 PM.
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From: Lexington, KY
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be verrrrrrrrrrry careful with those clamps bud, i had one of them pop off and so did BOOSTED2K2, carry some tools with u at all times, i personally have 4 clamps holding mine on
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From: Zulu Alpha Tango Foxtrot
Rep Power: 312 Ok - now the explanation....
First of all - this isn't something to do for the non-mechanically inclined. It took me 2 days to do this. The first day I mounted / installed the Aeromotive pressure regulator. Today, I completed the task by running the lines, and converting the fuel pump.
The first picture shows the complete pump assembly taken apart. Its orange due to the gas....
The stock pump is a little smaller than the new one (Walbro), so the fuel pump cage had to be modified to make it fit. This is where a Dremel comes in handy, as you can see from the pictures. One of the catches that I ran into (due to previous DIY's being incomplete in detail) was that the stock pump has the discharge on the OPPOSITE side of the pump (ie its 180 degrees from the stock pump). This makes it a little difficult to reinstall the new pump. Some cutting is required from the pump cage.
I also cut and enlarged the "entry" hole, as seen in one of photos below (due to the fact that this is a high volume pump, I wanted to ensure that the pump was getting adequate fuel).
I used 5/16" fuel injection hose from the pump discharge to the filter assembly. It worked great. Instead of messing around with plugging the stock regulator, I just removed it completely. Looking at the design of the filter, the opposite end is supposed to feed back to the stock pressure regulator. I used 3/8" hose for that outlet, and just used a brass plug in the end. Its much simpler than messing around with the stock regulator (which isn't needed anymore).
One thing to watch out for is routing of the fuel hose. If its not routed properly, the rotating cage assembly will not rotate when installed in the tank. It must be free to rotate, otherwise the sending unit may not show the proper fuel level. Be CAREFUL with the sending unit when removing the pump from the tank - it is fragile!
I didn't have any leak problems, thank god. I didn't follow the directions that came with the FPR, since the fuel pressure wouldn't be correct (it said to adjust the pressure with the vaccum hose disconnected from the FPR. When I connected the vaccum hose, the pressure would drop to 35 PSI, causing a lean condition - I heard pinging at idle! The HELM manual says that the fuel pressure should be around 45 psi at idle, so I just installed the hose and adjusted it to 45, voila no more problems).
So....one less thing to do with installing the turbo.....Any questions, ask!
First of all - this isn't something to do for the non-mechanically inclined. It took me 2 days to do this. The first day I mounted / installed the Aeromotive pressure regulator. Today, I completed the task by running the lines, and converting the fuel pump.
The first picture shows the complete pump assembly taken apart. Its orange due to the gas....
The stock pump is a little smaller than the new one (Walbro), so the fuel pump cage had to be modified to make it fit. This is where a Dremel comes in handy, as you can see from the pictures. One of the catches that I ran into (due to previous DIY's being incomplete in detail) was that the stock pump has the discharge on the OPPOSITE side of the pump (ie its 180 degrees from the stock pump). This makes it a little difficult to reinstall the new pump. Some cutting is required from the pump cage.
I also cut and enlarged the "entry" hole, as seen in one of photos below (due to the fact that this is a high volume pump, I wanted to ensure that the pump was getting adequate fuel).
I used 5/16" fuel injection hose from the pump discharge to the filter assembly. It worked great. Instead of messing around with plugging the stock regulator, I just removed it completely. Looking at the design of the filter, the opposite end is supposed to feed back to the stock pressure regulator. I used 3/8" hose for that outlet, and just used a brass plug in the end. Its much simpler than messing around with the stock regulator (which isn't needed anymore).
One thing to watch out for is routing of the fuel hose. If its not routed properly, the rotating cage assembly will not rotate when installed in the tank. It must be free to rotate, otherwise the sending unit may not show the proper fuel level. Be CAREFUL with the sending unit when removing the pump from the tank - it is fragile!
I didn't have any leak problems, thank god. I didn't follow the directions that came with the FPR, since the fuel pressure wouldn't be correct (it said to adjust the pressure with the vaccum hose disconnected from the FPR. When I connected the vaccum hose, the pressure would drop to 35 PSI, causing a lean condition - I heard pinging at idle! The HELM manual says that the fuel pressure should be around 45 psi at idle, so I just installed the hose and adjusted it to 45, voila no more problems).
So....one less thing to do with installing the turbo.....Any questions, ask!
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From: Zulu Alpha Tango Foxtrot
Rep Power: 312 Originally posted by C2i0v0i1C
be verrrrrrrrrrry careful with those clamps bud, i had one of them pop off and so did BOOSTED2K2, carry some tools with u at all times, i personally have 4 clamps holding mine on
be verrrrrrrrrrry careful with those clamps bud, i had one of them pop off and so did BOOSTED2K2, carry some tools with u at all times, i personally have 4 clamps holding mine on
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Originally posted by opto_isolator
Actually, those are fuel injection hose clamps, which are designed to be failsafe (ie, they won't fall apart unlike those other hose clamps with the screw).....They are on there pretty darn tight. Did your's pop off under boost or under normal conditions?
Actually, those are fuel injection hose clamps, which are designed to be failsafe (ie, they won't fall apart unlike those other hose clamps with the screw).....They are on there pretty darn tight. Did your's pop off under boost or under normal conditions?
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Rep Power: 0 The only criticism I have is over the return line. I think SS braided would be a better choice (even though it's really expensive). Only for the fact that the line runs under the car. It's just less of a chance of it ever rupturing if you hit something or what not (even if the chance is already small). It's a personal preference though. You did a good job.
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From: Zulu Alpha Tango Foxtrot
Rep Power: 312 Yeah, SS hose would have been bling bling - the hose I used was Earl's super stock, it was about $90 for 18 feet or so...expensive stuff! Their SS was far more than that! The super stock hose is rated to 250 PSI, so its pretty rugged stuff. I'll keep an eye on it....
That sucks about the clamps - Sure hope I don't have any problems.....
That sucks about the clamps - Sure hope I don't have any problems.....
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From: NJ
Rep Power: 0 Yeah, the money for the SS is expensive. I payed $150 in SS braided hose to do my return lines, and oil lines. I don't think you'd have a problem whether it be SS or not.
The best bet for the clamps to be safe, would just be to pull the unit out again and and tug really hard on both ends of the line. If it doesn't come loose, it'll be fine, because that would be more pressure that that line will see. IT would be a pain in the ***, but better safe then sorry. Plus, you know your way in the tank now, it shouldn't take you long at all.
The best bet for the clamps to be safe, would just be to pull the unit out again and and tug really hard on both ends of the line. If it doesn't come loose, it'll be fine, because that would be more pressure that that line will see. IT would be a pain in the ***, but better safe then sorry. Plus, you know your way in the tank now, it shouldn't take you long at all.
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From: Boise, Idaho
Rep Power: 328 Nice job, you wouldnt happen to have any pictures on how you eliminated the oem fuel pressure regualtor would ya? looking at the pictures i guess i dont see it. I see the hose with the plug in it, is that the way its done ? And what all did you need to do on the fuel rail for this to work?
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From: Zulu Alpha Tango Foxtrot
Rep Power: 312 Originally posted by tfnaaf
Nice job, you wouldnt happen to have any pictures on how you eliminated the oem fuel pressure regualtor would ya? looking at the pictures i guess i dont see it. I see the hose with the plug in it, is that the way its done ? And what all did you need to do on the fuel rail for this to work?
Nice job, you wouldnt happen to have any pictures on how you eliminated the oem fuel pressure regualtor would ya? looking at the pictures i guess i dont see it. I see the hose with the plug in it, is that the way its done ? And what all did you need to do on the fuel rail for this to work?
Awesome! Great Job Bro! noobie question! did you gain HP/Torque? about how much? Thanks! 
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Rep Power: 0 wow that is really impressive isolator it would be really cool if you had moore pics of the proces where all the parts are located like a good DIY man you could charge pople for that aorund your neighbourghood i'm sure planty would pay to get something done like that by someone who did it before!!! i know i would!!
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From: Zulu Alpha Tango Foxtrot
Rep Power: 312 Yeah, I have to update this a bit - I have a fuel leak, and thanks to an idea from Boosted2k2 I think I know how to fix it. I just received the parts yesterday, but I am out of town on work right now so it won't happen any time soon.....
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From: Boise, Idaho
Rep Power: 328 Re: Fuel system converted today - LOTS of PICS *56K go for a walk*
Bump to the top for new pictures that i recovered from my personal archive and added them to opto isolators post, hope he dont mind! And below is a few of my own conversion pictures..... enjoy!
Where it comes thru the top of the tank!
This is my make shift plug of the factory return from the intank regulator!
Notice the black fuel hose? Its special Gates brand submersible fuel injection fuel hose!
Underside view of the return.
Left over parts after conversion
Fuel rail converted
Where it comes thru the top of the tank!
This is my make shift plug of the factory return from the intank regulator!
Notice the black fuel hose? Its special Gates brand submersible fuel injection fuel hose!
Underside view of the return.
Left over parts after conversion
Fuel rail converted
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