Rep Power: 0

okay sorry for the useless post.

switched to google chrome.

So here is the deal:

great site, solid foundation, solid FAQ link and a solid place to be for honda owners...or honda lovers alike.

Far beyond the needs to read my user manual...ive fixed cars for about 4 years, now an apprentice toolmaker.

i know lots, yet have lots to still know, and i have not done every mechanical job possible on a typical automobile so despite the experience, i yet seek advice.

string sentences to reduce space.

car is titled above....having strange over temping issues with engine coolant system.

began with temp indicator going wayyy up during long idle/traffic etc. redlining a few times in fact. no warped head or leaky head flange...no ballooned hoses...no blown rad cap etc. it somehow took it like it was made of inconel....miracle i can still type this to try and fix it. as opposed to re-re.


determined snag at fan switch on lower t stat. body...bridge circuit at connector=fan energizes

switch re-re with used one from spare used complete head ***'y from prior blown engine. (bottom end rod bearing spun only)

fans still did not energize auto. (without non-computerized command)

instead of buying new fan switch and screwing into t stat body like normal person, i hardwired a toggle switch in fan loom. traffic/drive thru=toggle switch ON. = temp gauge is not permitted to rise. forget to switch on..=temp gauge rise if buddy in front orders 3 number ones.

managed just fine without that. fans only energize when rad has little to no draught flowing thru fins...such as idle, so it was simply I who commanded it.

eventually, i found that using AC energized both fans...double cooling power.

now just a couple weeks ago, i saw to my horror that while on the highway doing 120kmh my temp gauge was almost at redline! i didnt even notice it rise! naturally i stayed reserved and calm...and turned on my AC to fire up the fans. figured they process more air than ram air flow alone...

anticipating the needle drop...my eye nearly popped outta their sockets when i saw it wasnt dropping...but rising slowly more!

next course was to turn on heaters...full blast...in 30deg. C weather.......

temps actually started to drop...huge relief...because being forced off the highway...and stopping the car is actually really harmful in itself...nevermind a warped head...the sudden temp shock denies the metallurgy of slowly climatizing and relaxing...risking a fracture in the block.

so now im faced with the old hood latch and first things first i feel the top rad hose. well bad idea considering the overflow was full and popeye blowing steam out his ears.

the thing was so hot it burned my hand in reflex removal time. it was also super hard from pressure...

snaked my arm down to lower rad hose...only warm. perhaps so little warmth..it could be argued the transaxle's heat radiating warmed it up.

change out the old t stat after cool off on my series engine, if you know what youre doing, you can crack the t stat housing cover without loosing more than a cup full, so thorough burping isnt concern. just did what i normally would and added until rad elements covered, and started car after no bubbles came of their own accord. water pump circulation cavitates rad and i keep adding to suit....finally it stops and on goes the rad cap.

next few driving trips seem ok but between the lines temp gauge climbs again
routing now if you heard me out= AC ON, heater Max/max

as i cupped my hand over the vent waitinf for the blast of insanely hot air to come out...i am greeted by the 40deg. C interior of my car suddenly...and you guessed it...temp gauge wasnt going down....routing proves subsequently inneffective because i simultaneously notice that hot air is no longer coming out...despite command...and air blowing suddenly feels like OAT....

The very first time it started overheating, back when i could toggle switch one single fan to bring the temp down...i slowly blew a pin hole/crack in the radiator filler neck. i guess pressure just blew the plastic out a litttle...so i changed the rad like ...well before the serious-no longer able to drop the temp using other systems period happened...bled/burped her until it wouldnt anymore.

ive read my chilton/haynes regarding the subject, theres just so many weird variables and details.

anyone know, based on my details what is going on? like an accurate conviction? cuz ive already exhausted all the typical options...

one other thing. can a thermostat "stick" ? so that at times the rated coolant temp pops her open...and closes when it bbelow nominal...but also gets stuck somewhere in the transient movement of the diaphramn???

can i remove the t stat altogether to do a test? will the t stat gasket alone give me the seal i want att he t stat cover flange?

thanks so much everyone
Billy c

 
Rep Power: 186

Blown head gasket