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So I'm updating on the misfiring that I'm having with my 02 civic.i took the car to a guy that work on hondas and check it out and said that my camshaft sensor was shift a little, he fixed that and changed the idle air control valve that was causing little idle issues,took it for a 15 minutes drive and the codes never appear again, but I'm have these two codes( p1505 and p0420. These two codes is giving me hell now.i just put in a new downstream 02 send,took it for a 20 minutes drive and as i reached in the yard the check engine light comes on.anyone have the fix.oh forgot i changed the pcv valve to the dealership kind but still having the problem.
Yeah i know but the other code is for the pcv air leak and that's the one I'm more concerned about.i put my finger over the hole for idle air control valve in the throttle body and it didn't stall out the car.
So i took the car to shop and the mechanic had checked out and said the camshaft sensor shift, he drove it and said the light wasn't showing up but just about 5 minutes after i payed him and on my way home the light came on about 5 minutes after i left his shop. It came on intermittently. When its on the car vibrate so bad. He told me to replace the cam sensor. It was showering misfire for cylinder 2 -4 but now i scanned it it is showing for 1-3-4 . i bought a Denso fuel pump to put it But i haven't got the chance to. I went on several websites and people having the same issues to. Some of their solutions solved by replacing these parts individually and clean what need cleaning. ECU,EGR VALVE,EGR PORT need cleaning and i cleaned my EGR port about 9 months ago when i rebuild the engine so that shouldn't be clogged already..
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Re: Multiple Cylinder misfire
Originally Posted by Tracecross30
Yeah i know but the other code is for the pcv air leak and that's the one I'm more concerned about.i put my finger over the hole for idle air control valve in the throttle body and it didn't stall out the car.
Clear the codes using ecu reset/idle relearn:
1) remove negative terminal form battery
2) turn off all electronics in car except headlights. Keep headlights on (but won't light up) for a minute to dissipate any residual voltage
3) turn headlights off, keep all electronics off including radio, domelight, etc..
4) reconnect negative terminal to battery
5) start engine and let it idle for 15-20 minutes
Hopefully this will clear all codes so they won't return but, don't be surprised if they do.
Do a smoke test on the engine to rule out any vacuum leaks.
Remove and clean IAC valve and replace gasket if damaged.
The PCV valve's function is to meter crankcase vapors and recirculate them back into the intake manifold..it wouldn't be source for a vacuum leak but can cause other issues: https://axleaddict.com/auto-repair/H...PCV-valve-test
Last edited by Wankenstein; Jan 11, 2020 at 11:28 PM.
Well, o came in from work at about 11:15pm and i got straight to work an changing the fuel pump.the light was on before i replace the pump. After finished replacing the pump i cycle the key a few times and start the car,the check engine light went off all of sudden.i will see if it comes on again.i will post an update.
So just updating on the information i posted yesterday on my cyl misfire.now, before i replace the pump i was having misfire on cyl 2-4 and lastnight i put in a new pump and the check engine light went off by itself. I still having some vibrations but no light comes on so i drove about 23 miles to work and scanned the ECM without no light showing fault codes and it shows misfires for cylinders 3-4 now. I realized something was still not right because it was burning a little fuel.. So now i changed
plugs dealership
Coil pack
Fuel pump
Injectors
pcv valve, dealership
EGR valve
EGR port clean out about 10 months ago.
what else to do to this car? the camshaft sensor is new but its aftermarket.
Could it be the pcv air leak causing all this misfiring?
Compression is 185 on three cylinders and 181 on the other.thats above specs . i dont really have a smoke machine. I made an appointment with mechanic instructor for Friday to run through it to see whats going on.
Last edited by Tracecross30; Jan 12, 2020 at 11:16 PM.
Reason: More information
or use the cheap-*** Scotty Kilmer style human smoke machine like this to blow smoke through brake booster line while the TB is sealed off. For this test I recommend upgrading from a cheap cigar to a Arturo Fuentes 8-5-8. I prefer a Maduro (dark) wrapper but you can't go wrong with a Camaroon wrapper either
So i took the car to a shop today and i give them a list of things that i changed on the car so far since i started having issues with the misfiring.they checked and said that they dont find any vacuum leak and that the only thing they can say is the valve may need adjustments. One other guy said i must Change my camshaft sensor..and i didn't need to replace the fuel pump.
So i did adjusted the valves Friday and i haven't seen anymore codes for misfire on any of the cylinders but since i adjusted them i can hear the ticking under the valve cover.i just re adjusted them again and I'm still hearing the noise coming from under the valve cover that wasn't there before i adjusted them. The size of the feeler gauge that im using is
.020 intake
.025 exhaust so i dont know why I'm hearing the noise..i didn't adjust them to tight or loose ,but when i first adjusted them they were tight enough to where the the feeler gauge couldn't go underneath them.so what I'm not doing or doing wrong? Please help. A shop will take 200,300 just to adjust them.the deeler would take way more.
The way i found the TDC is by turned the crankshaft pulley nut counter clockwise and line up the marks on the cam pulley on each side of the cylinder head,i used a 3/8 extension in the spark plug holes as well.
You did set each cylinder at TDC separately when adjusting those valves, correct? With the timing marks lined up you can only adjust cylinder 1 valves.
Sure,i did exactly how the book explained it. TDC on cyl 1,turn the crankshaft pulley counter clockwise 180 degrees fine TDC again and adjusted cyl 3,turn the crankshaft pulley 180 degrees and fine TDC then adjusted cyl 4 , and the repeated the same step on Cyl 2 then i torque them at 12 ft. I wasn't sure of the specs on torquing them so do them at 12.
So,to everyone that was giving me advice on what to do for my misfiring. I was overlooking one thing that seem to solve my problem,but not sure yet ,but so far so good. I was told to adjusted my valve and i didn't remember that i was told to do that and i did adjusted them and i haven't have anymore codes for misfiring since then but I'm still watching it. I the specs in the service manual said its 0.20 for INTAKE and EXHAUST 0.25, but those spec was way to much i was hearing the valve making so much noise so I called the dealership and they gave me a different sets of specs which made a big difference. INTAKE: 0.007-0.009. EXHAUST 0.009-0.011. I used these new once and it work well except I'm having vibrations but my idle air control valve is bad and i know that could causing the vibration to so ordered one from summit racing so i will see if the vibration will stop after installing it.. My feeler gauge didn't have 0.007 so i used 0.008 for the intake valve and i think i used 0.009 for the exhaust..
i have a question.anyone know where i can get a sending unit? Mine is not reading propperly..i looked on eBay ,Amazon,summit racing,rock auto and searched Google but not seeing any.i saw the the complete think with pump,filter and everything. And whats a good brand to buy also.?
The service manual states 0.18-0.22 for intake and 0.23-0.27 for exhaust. Those specs are in millimeters though. This equates to 0.007-0.009 intake and 0.009-0.011 exhaust in inches.
Yeah .so what you think about the vibration..?and you know where i can get a sending unit?i tried different parts place but not seeing it for my civic.
If the idle is too low or fluctuating it can cause vibrations, so can bad engine mounts. You mentioned the IACV was bad and being replaced. Afterwards you'll want to do an idle learn.
You can get a whole fuel sending unit on Rockauto for ~$150. I've never replaced a whole unit so I can't really give you a recommendation.
No,i didn't replace the idle air control valve..i ordered one and its on the way..my engine mounts are less than a year old.i got them from 1A auto.com.
Yea,true..dealership stuff way to expensive at when you need parts the most.i rather dealership parts but i cant afford them all the time. The front mount alone is over $200.00 .can you believe that? So for all the mounts for my car you. Will be looking at $900 -$1000.and this car is so old.
I replaced all mounts about 10 months old..i dont think ots the mounts causing the vibration.there was no vibration until after i did the valve adjustment. My idle air control valve is bad and i know that can cause vibration also. I ordered one from summit racing so when i install it i will see..lets say its the valve causing the vibration. What could really be the cause after adjusting them?.
i used these specs ftom the dealership.0.007 - 0.009 ntake and 0.009-011 Exhaust. But i didn't have 0.007 on my feeler gauge for intake so i used 0.008 and 0.009 on the exhaust..
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Re: Multiple Cylinder misfire
Your list of parts replaced, cleaned or adjusted: Spark plugs Coil packs Fuel pump Injectors PCV valve, dealership EGR valve EGR port clean out about 10 months ago.
All motor mounts
Cam sensor
Valves adjustment
Smoke test for vacuum leak
Fuel pump
Oxygen Sensor
Ordered an IACV and will install soon.
Has the mechanical timing (cam, crank) been checked? Timing belt may have jumped a tooth or two? Crank sensor been tested or replaced? Compression test performed?