Car Audio
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Car Audio
How's the stock CD player compared to aftermarket ones? If you were to rate it as a price comparable to an aftermarket one, how much would you give it? Is it worth $200, $300, $0? Which brands do you guys like.
Also, not going for a sub (I'm not a heavy bass person), will the less expensive ones do for expanding the system (i.e., more discs, or MP3)? Or are the expensive ones actually better sounding quality wise?
Also, not going for a sub (I'm not a heavy bass person), will the less expensive ones do for expanding the system (i.e., more discs, or MP3)? Or are the expensive ones actually better sounding quality wise?
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Rep Power: 0 I'd imagine so, but my question is, what range is the "cap" for stock system. I.e., how much should I spend for the player using stock wiring/speakers?
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i wouldn't give you a dollar for the stock unit, but i'm used to "premium" sound..
not like i have the latest of the elite or anything (tho 5 years ago it was) but after hearing what high, clean power can give you i'd never leave my ride stock..
i don't crank it, (except when i'm running a db test) but you hear things you've never heard before, things you never knew were on the track..
in my case i'll be running what i have in the "subbox" thread i started and then use my old MBQuartz setup in the rear (maybe w/deck power??)..even tho it's strictly rear-fill i'd hate to NOT use them..
then i'll go for seperates up front as well..prob 2 ways in the door capped to leave a little of the highs alone, and then run new tweets in ther stock location
i wouldn't give you a dollar for the stock unit, but i'm used to "premium" sound..
not like i have the latest of the elite or anything (tho 5 years ago it was) but after hearing what high, clean power can give you i'd never leave my ride stock..
i don't crank it, (except when i'm running a db test) but you hear things you've never heard before, things you never knew were on the track..
in my case i'll be running what i have in the "subbox" thread i started and then use my old MBQuartz setup in the rear (maybe w/deck power??)..even tho it's strictly rear-fill i'd hate to NOT use them..
then i'll go for seperates up front as well..prob 2 ways in the door capped to leave a little of the highs alone, and then run new tweets in ther stock location
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imo, spend what you can!!
in time i'm sure you'll want to expand, most of us do
but if what yer trying to do atm is improve sound over the stock system????
i'd say spend the $$'s on the speakers first..
i've always heard that's the first thing to do..
imo, spend what you can!!
in time i'm sure you'll want to expand, most of us do
but if what yer trying to do atm is improve sound over the stock system????
i'd say spend the $$'s on the speakers first..
i've always heard that's the first thing to do..
whatever you do get a good deck...first..IMO...because...your system is really built around your deck...and by the sounds of it....you don't want bass...therefore..the most you will probably get is an amp...to run your inside speakers....therefore....if you decided against the amp...you could run a good set of components in your car....running right off the deck....so if you have a good deck...you won't have to spend money later on upgrading....
"you get what you pay for".......unless its stolen or free...or really good hook ups....but ...good decks are pioneer....alpine....eclipse....clarion....etc etc...any more questions..just post away.....hope this helped....
"you get what you pay for".......unless its stolen or free...or really good hook ups....but ...good decks are pioneer....alpine....eclipse....clarion....etc etc...any more questions..just post away.....hope this helped....
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Rep Power: 0 Ok... I guess I'll start with the deck. If I want something that will use up whatever the stock speakers can give, and *maybe* a little bit of upgrade room for better speakers, what price range should I be looking at?
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Rep Power: 0 the entire OEM system retails for $295CAD.. the front 6.5's are $13 each. The rear 6.5's are $13.60 ($15.90 for 6X9's) if you have OEM tweeters honda charges $180 for them Pioneer charges $50.
the OEM HU is damn horrible.. worth abiut as much as it;s Road rage/Jensen equivalent..
If you want a solid low cost HU. Pioneer 1400 or Clarion 215.
Cheers
Mohawk
the OEM HU is damn horrible.. worth abiut as much as it;s Road rage/Jensen equivalent..
If you want a solid low cost HU. Pioneer 1400 or Clarion 215.
Cheers
Mohawk
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[hr]Originally posted by: stillmatik23
a good deck nowadays you are looking at atleast $400 to $500 for a good deck.....[hr]
[hr]Originally posted by: stillmatik23
a good deck nowadays you are looking at atleast $400 to $500 for a good deck.....[hr]
If your going to run the speakers off the HU Pioneer and Alpine would be the way to go...
Cheers
Mohawk
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[hr]Originally posted by: mohawkboom
For somethign flashy yeah.. the lowest end pioneer to the high end pioneer all use the same internal amp, DAC's and optical inputs...
If your going to run the speakers off the HU Pioneer and Alpine would be the way to go...
Cheers
Mohawk[hr]
[hr]Originally posted by: mohawkboom
Quote
[hr]Originally posted by: stillmatik23
a good deck nowadays you are looking at atleast $400 to $500 for a good deck.....[hr]
[hr]Originally posted by: stillmatik23
a good deck nowadays you are looking at atleast $400 to $500 for a good deck.....[hr]
If your going to run the speakers off the HU Pioneer and Alpine would be the way to go...
Cheers
Mohawk[hr]
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[hr]Originally posted by: 2K1SiCDN
Anyone got hook ups on mp3 decks?[hr]
[hr]Originally posted by: 2K1SiCDN
Anyone got hook ups on mp3 decks?[hr]
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[hr]Originally posted by: 2K1SiCDN
Anyone got hook ups on mp3 decks?[hr]
[hr]Originally posted by: 2K1SiCDN
Anyone got hook ups on mp3 decks?[hr]
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[hr]Originally posted by: iamfob
any cheaper mp3 deck beside the 840MP?[hr]
[hr]Originally posted by: iamfob
any cheaper mp3 deck beside the 840MP?[hr]
As for OEM HU's, many of them are made by good manufacturers and will last long, but instead of a 52W max (20-26w rms) from a Sony, Pioneer, etc. Factory HU's only come with 25W max (10-13w rms) AT MOST, sometimes not even. So any aftermarket deck, such as a 1400 would be a HUGE improvement over stock. An upgraded HU with stock speakers and wiring will sound a lot cleaner, give more bass, and won't blow your speakers (right away) hehehe. So yah, like stillmatik said, start with the deck first.
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[hr]Originally posted by: mohawkboom
NIB...New In Box [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]... it's just an Premiere version of the 8400MP..has a 2 year warranty[hr]
[hr]Originally posted by: mohawkboom
NIB...New In Box [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]... it's just an Premiere version of the 8400MP..has a 2 year warranty[hr]
That's a really good price conidering they go for $1000 plus tax usually [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]
Too bad it's a little out of my price range. [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG] Thanks for the info though, if I do manage to scrounge up some $$$ I'll let you know
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[hr]Originally posted by: EGviNNY
There are alot on the market starting at $299.99 or cheaper, Jensen made one last year at $199.99... but believe me, do NOT get something like that, they last 3 months tops, I used to install them so I know the horror stories. The 840 or 8400 are just top end decks with OEL displays and alot of features most people won't even use.
As for OEM HU's, many of them are made by good manufacturers and will last long, but instead of a 52W max (20-26w rms) from a Sony, Pioneer, etc. Factory HU's only come with 25W max (10-13w rms) AT MOST, sometimes not even. So any aftermarket deck, such as a 1400 would be a HUGE improvement over stock. An upgraded HU with stock speakers and wiring will sound a lot cleaner, give more bass, and won't blow your speakers (right away) hehehe. So yah, like stillmatik said, start with the deck first.[hr]
[hr]Originally posted by: EGviNNY
Quote
[hr]Originally posted by: iamfob
any cheaper mp3 deck beside the 840MP?[hr]
[hr]Originally posted by: iamfob
any cheaper mp3 deck beside the 840MP?[hr]
As for OEM HU's, many of them are made by good manufacturers and will last long, but instead of a 52W max (20-26w rms) from a Sony, Pioneer, etc. Factory HU's only come with 25W max (10-13w rms) AT MOST, sometimes not even. So any aftermarket deck, such as a 1400 would be a HUGE improvement over stock. An upgraded HU with stock speakers and wiring will sound a lot cleaner, give more bass, and won't blow your speakers (right away) hehehe. So yah, like stillmatik said, start with the deck first.[hr]
just to let everyone know....Vinny's the audio guy....you need anything done, he'll do it for you....he can hook you up with good pricing as well......
SO, while I clear your headlights, he can install your audio [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]
hahahaha
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Rep Power: 0 k..question for you audio guys..
here's what i got, need to know where to go and what i should do..
will be using a V12 MRV-1000 for each 12" sub..(2 of each)
have an Alpine CDE-7821 (4x35)
have MBQuartz 6 pack (6.5-4-3/4) w/crossovers (old style..large plate for the tweeter)
need (or do i..what kinda quality is in the oem tweets that are in the doors??) tweeters
so, do i put the 6.5 in the door at mid-bass and mid range, replace the tweeter up top, and use the 4 and 3/4 in the rear replacing the 6x9's??
should i power them with the deck power??
should i just ditch the rears all together (i hate rear-fill..gives me a headache..)
or should i power both subs from one amp and use the other as a two channel for the "full range"???
should i use a 2-way in the doors?? full ranged or capped??
what y'all recommend??
here's what i got, need to know where to go and what i should do..
will be using a V12 MRV-1000 for each 12" sub..(2 of each)
have an Alpine CDE-7821 (4x35)
have MBQuartz 6 pack (6.5-4-3/4) w/crossovers (old style..large plate for the tweeter)
need (or do i..what kinda quality is in the oem tweets that are in the doors??) tweeters
so, do i put the 6.5 in the door at mid-bass and mid range, replace the tweeter up top, and use the 4 and 3/4 in the rear replacing the 6x9's??
should i power them with the deck power??
should i just ditch the rears all together (i hate rear-fill..gives me a headache..)
or should i power both subs from one amp and use the other as a two channel for the "full range"???
should i use a 2-way in the doors?? full ranged or capped??
what y'all recommend??
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Rep Power: 0 Well...for one..those 3way components are useless to you unless you want to build kick pods for the 4.5's. The OEM Tweeter is pretty crappy.. Deck power is not enough for MBQs..they like power...2 1000 Watt amps.. to actually hear your mids and highs you'd need a good 100Wrms to each side.. I think you need to do some more research and learning becore you spend any $$$..because you'll just leave yourself very dissapointed...
Check out these sites for ideas/info..
Sound Domain
Elitecaraudio.com
Installer.com
Termpro.com
PM me any time if you ever need any car audio help...
Check out these sites for ideas/info..
Sound Domain
Elitecaraudio.com
Installer.com
Termpro.com
PM me any time if you ever need any car audio help...
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Rep Power: 0 thanx Mohawk..i'll do some reading..
i've already got the stuff listed above, just looking for the best solution for use w/o letting it all go to the scrap heap
i'll do some reading and give you a hollar!!!
again, thanx!!
i've already got the stuff listed above, just looking for the best solution for use w/o letting it all go to the scrap heap
i'll do some reading and give you a hollar!!!
again, thanx!!
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