What did you do to your civic today?
#1111
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Roxie, metal should not be bending with the force you could put on it by hand. in a crash they will rip right out with the pressure of your full body weight traveling at whatever speed the car is going. i found some diys but they all use "eyebolts" which imo are not safe enough. okay this one looks good...and he makes a comment about how unsafe 4 point is even when properly installed. read the whole thing before you decide. may want to consider going back to stock belt because its not worth a permanent injury or death. esp if you did not remove the rear seats to use the original back seatbelt bolts along with mounting plates. this guy knows his stuff. i know you are very good with cars, but this is one thing that can have too many consequences if done wrong. after reading the diy, i would never even bother with em unless i had a racing seat and harness bar and the fancy harness. at that point it becomes a question of why. unless you are racing on a track, there is no benefit.
http://www.hondaclub.com/forum/artic...right-way.html
http://www.hondaclub.com/forum/artic...right-way.html
I'm going to pull it out today and send it back to either Schroth, or SoloRacer (where I got it). I skimmed a bit of that link, going to fully read it now. I'll PM you if I have any questions. I know a harness isn't necessary, but it just makes me feel safer since the airbag is about 14 inches from me, and angled directly at my throat. I don't feel safe with that thing.
Thanks for your help mate.
Edit: The bit he mentions about 4 points not being safe is about submarining. The Rallye 4 is built with an ASM leather strap to prevent submarining. I've seen crash tests with these harnesses, and it doesn't appear to be a problem. Just throwing that out for those who are curious.
Last edited by Roxie; 05-02-2012 at 06:12 PM.
#1112
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started my wire tuck. so far both passenger and driver side harnesses are out driver side fender is off.
winsheild washer bottle and lines are gone
cruise control just needs the throttle cable pulled outta the pedal and out.
and moved a few harnesses for the engine that were by the strut towers more behind the engine.
should look pretty nice when im done. before and after pics later.
winsheild washer bottle and lines are gone
cruise control just needs the throttle cable pulled outta the pedal and out.
and moved a few harnesses for the engine that were by the strut towers more behind the engine.
should look pretty nice when im done. before and after pics later.
#1113
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Re: What did you do to your civic today?
How long did it take for you do do both of them? Was this your first time? Hint/tips/tricks?
I was looking at getting a set from certifit.com:
http://www.certifit.com/p-6388-headl...iver-side.aspx
I was looking at getting a set from certifit.com:
http://www.certifit.com/p-6388-headl...iver-side.aspx
#1114
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roxie-try to angle the airbag towards your chest instead of neck. the steering wheel tilts up and down, and the seat can be adjusted as well. airbags are a mixed feeling with me. i still think belts do most of the work, and airbag can do more harm than good, esp considering i still havent gotten around to having the inflator recall done (the originals are too strong and can rip, causing metal fragments to hit and kill you). i try to limit my speeds to below 40mph as much as possible and never put myself in a position where i wouldnt be able to stop in time. rarely do freeway driving anymore its just too dangerous.
#1115
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You see, my issue is that I can't really position my seat much different. I can't move my seat up too much without having a funky driving position. Plus, the steering wheel is almost positioned all the way down. Even if I moved the airbag to a better position, it would deploy and make contact with me prematurely, causing more harm than good. Hence, my search for a harness that's legal and safe.
#1116
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i think you may want to go around and see if there are shops that specialize in this sort of thing. seems like aside from a proper install, having the belts properly fitted for the specific driver is as important. im all for them if its done right. and im guessing after that you will just disable the srs system which is a good idea. car companies spend millions destroying brand new vehicles to prove their seatbelts are safe, thats why i usually tend to stick with what works. i was in a pretty big accident in 2005 where a cargo van plowed into my stopped car from the rear doing about 40 mph. i had a corbeau racing seat at the time and broke the seat back with the weight of my body (150 lbs) being thrown backwards. im actually lucky that it broke and spread out the impact force. i have a feeling the injuries wouldve been much worse if the seat held its position and i got slammed into it with no give.
#1117
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Can't afford a shop, I literally spent my last dollars on this harness. I do have some friends in this part of the business though. I'll get in touch with them. I just am not confident in the stock airbags with my stature.
I'm just still scratching my head on how easy those mounting pieces bent. It's baffling. Almost felt like I was bending aluminum, as steel wouldn't bend like that.
I'm just still scratching my head on how easy those mounting pieces bent. It's baffling. Almost felt like I was bending aluminum, as steel wouldn't bend like that.
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i think you may want to go around and see if there are shops that specialize in this sort of thing. seems like aside from a proper install, having the belts properly fitted for the specific driver is as important. im all for them if its done right. and im guessing after that you will just disable the srs system which is a good idea. car companies spend millions destroying brand new vehicles to prove their seatbelts are safe, thats why i usually tend to stick with what works. i was in a pretty big accident in 2005 where a cargo van plowed into my stopped car from the rear doing about 40 mph. i had a corbeau racing seat at the time and broke the seat back with the weight of my body (150 lbs) being thrown backwards. im actually lucky that it broke and spread out the impact force. i have a feeling the injuries wouldve been much worse if the seat held its position and i got slammed into it with no give.
but think about it. many experienced techs use the cloth part of the belt to lift 3-500 pound engines with. i feel safer with a stock belt than some nylon sewed into a 4 point harness. if you just want something to keep you in your seat better just get a racing seat.
my buddy autocrosses his porsche and told me when i said i wanted to get into autocross to use the stock belt and get a nice seat because hes seen a lot of peoples belts snapping or the mounts ripping out for their harnesses.
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roxie-try to angle the airbag towards your chest instead of neck. the steering wheel tilts up and down, and the seat can be adjusted as well. airbags are a mixed feeling with me. i still think belts do most of the work, and airbag can do more harm than good, esp considering i still havent gotten around to having the inflator recall done (the originals are too strong and can rip, causing metal fragments to hit and kill you). i try to limit my speeds to below 40mph as much as possible and never put myself in a position where i wouldnt be able to stop in time. rarely do freeway driving anymore its just too dangerous.
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the seatbelts have a mechanism that activates in a crash to permanently lock them in place, and that is why they are really useful. but need to be replaced after the accident.
oh i finally found that ferio pic with no power steering.
oh i finally found that ferio pic with no power steering.
#1122
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Unless I can get a harness that doesn't have this same issue, I'm probably just going to revert to stock until I find a better solution. Thanks for all the input guys
Haven't done it yet, but today I'm removing the Rallye 4. Never thought I'd say that lol.
Haven't done it yet, but today I'm removing the Rallye 4. Never thought I'd say that lol.
#1127
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the ac delete isnt as big of a gain, mainly because there is no power loss if you keep it turned off. the weights posted by members here hardly makes it worth losing maybe 15-20 lbs. most of the stuff in this car is much lighter than on older hondas. used to be you could shave off hundreds of pounds just by replacing bolt on parts and removing a/c, moonroof, and hood/trunk. now those things weigh about half as much. our moonroof glass only weighs 10 lbs for example, and the motor even less. by shaving everything, you wouldnt drop more than 25 lbs max including the trims. door lock actuators and window regulators are also surprisingly very light.
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when i completely stripped my trunk, back seats, and took out the spare, i shaved off 132lbs off the rear.
#1129
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#1131
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Re: What did you do to your civic today?
One of the little Mopar sites (years ago) had an article on yanking all the dead, useless weight off of a test car and seeing just how fast it could go. Seems like they got a 16 second pig down to the 11 or 12 second range once there was just a drivers seat and a hollow shell.
It's like the exact opposite of bolt-on speed parts.
#1132
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A/C delete for me isn't necessarily for parasitic loss or weight savings. It's mainly to clean up the engine bay. I use it once a year, maybe. But it's all cumulative. Adding lightness where I can.
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Washed car, installed new wiper blades, cleaned air filter, installed new license plate frame and fasteners, also bought paint and a high-mount brake light bulb. Will touch up paint tomorrow and hopefully figure out how to get my bulb replaced. I need help.
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I actually posted another thread about it. Basically, I know what I'm supposed to do, but nothing will budge. It's like somebody superglued everything in place. I just don't know if I'm doing something wrong or what.
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gotta twist the socket counterclockwise and then pull it out. you can leave the wiring connected and just pull the bulb out and pop the new one in. then line it up in the hole and twist clockwise til it locks. the tabs only line up one way, otherwise it wont fit in straight.
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gotta twist the socket counterclockwise and then pull it out. you can leave the wiring connected and just pull the bulb out and pop the new one in. then line it up in the hole and twist clockwise til it locks. the tabs only line up one way, otherwise it wont fit in straight.
#1139
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Well, SR says that the mounts for the Rallye 4 are supposed to bend... doesn't sound right to me. But when you look at how the force is applied, I don't think it's going to fail. I have to wait for the week to start again to call Schroth, but I'm thinking this is how it's supposed to be. Hmmmm...
So today, I remounted a couple spots since I noticed they weren't at the best angles. Not planning on really using it right now until I get the final word. I'm a bit skeptical, but if Schroth says that that's how it should be, I'll trust them. It's the Germans... come on.
So today, I remounted a couple spots since I noticed they weren't at the best angles. Not planning on really using it right now until I get the final word. I'm a bit skeptical, but if Schroth says that that's how it should be, I'll trust them. It's the Germans... come on.
#1140
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Drove from MD, to FL last week. Taped up the nose and had random people at rest areas, gas stations, and Chilis sign the mask.