bluestreak

iTrader: (1)

What's up guys,

I've got major electrical issues w/ my vic. I had my remote amp wire tapped from the fuse box and it shorted something out. Somethiing went wrong and the jumped fuse blew, somewhat melted the fuse box around the fuse itself and the entire car was dead. no lights, ignition, etc. I checked under the hood and the IG1 fusable link (40A) was blown. I replace the two fuses and disconnected the system and thought it was cool. Well driving to work I smelled elecrical "burning" so I pulled over. Nothing was on fire and the two fuses were fine. I went to start the car and it was dead, no lights, nothing again. I called for a tow and while waiting forever for the guy, tried to start the car and it started. I didn't wanna risk driving the car, so I still towed it home. Ripped out ALL the system (had two amps) all day yesterday and brought it to the dealer today. The recall is being done on the headlight harnest / switch and the other electrical stuff may / maynot be covered. Probably not although I was trying to have it all be under the recall? ANy help or thoughts? The dealers rate is $98 / hour. I think the fuse box itself is shorted out, does the entire dash need to be pulled? I think it does and how much should I expect to pay? I just did the damn timing belt last week, suspension showed up at my door yesterday......can't take more bills with this car

bluestreak

iTrader: (1)

bump......please.......

zen_master

iTrader: (6)

Dude........

you're probably having the same problem with me.....long story though, i got a thread about it..

basically, the mechanic in honda concludes that the problem 99% located on the multiplexor of the fuse box underneath the steering wheel..

it's $110 if you buy if from www.hondaautomotiveparts.com

the mechanic checked my whole car....i ended up paying them $200 but it doesn't really fix anything...just because suddenly the car worked fine for a while....i THOUGH it's fine...turns out, after several hours, same thing happened again..

mind you though, the multiplexor is NOT a relay...its actually the whole fuse box underneath the steering......YOU CAN DIY em...so, don't panic................

im actually waiting for the shipment to arrive...hopefully it'll cure the problem...

bluestreak

iTrader: (1)

^ I'm gonna search your thread, I thought it was just that box, did you replace it? I wanted to be safe and have the dealer check it out

zen_master

iTrader: (6)

you probably should get the dealer check it out...since the possibility of short is not just on the cabin fuse box....it might also occured on under-hood fuse box.....

just pray to God that your ECU is OK....LOL....

i haven't replace it....im still waiting for shipment from majestic honda...

im so sad now..................it should've happened in the first place...damnit..
i got other maintanence (brakes, etc) coming up..........

bluestreak

iTrader: (1)

I hear you, what's an ECU worth? anyone know?
This BLOWS................and all at 98$ / hour but what are you going to do, they've got you by the *****.......the fusable link was under the hood fuse box, so who knows what's wrong with the thing. I just don't want to see it go up in flames....

bluestreak

iTrader: (1)

It's at the dealer as we speak

zen_master

iTrader: (6)

well, it's $75 per hour in my local dealer...

the mechanic tried to blame this and that on my car...such as my 04 Tail conversion, the wiring on my pioneer deck....but after a brainstorm together, he stop blaming those mods....

my mechanic checked the under-hood fuse box....everything looks fine and dandy..

he also checked the wiring on the "LEFT-SIDE-WIRING"....that's OK too..
LEFT-SIDE-WIRING connects from left and right headlight, then bunch of stuff, finally goes to under-hood fuse box.....and inside the cabin....

so, LEFT-SIDE-WIRING goes inside the cabin...and connected to the under-steering fuse box....as CABLE NUMBER 9 (and other connectors) on Honda mechanic hand book...

so..................due to the nature of my problem..... (about the strange fuse #2 and #5), my mechanic conclude that from his 27 years experience....he believed that 90% the possible problem will be the "Multiplexor" a.k.a Cabin Fuse Box...

he believed that the multiplexor is not a very strong circuitry........mind you that inside that box, is not an empty space, it actually contains a circuit board which controls the whole thing.......this is what he believed to be WEAK....compared to the nature of the LEFT-SIDE-WIRING....

zen_master

iTrader: (6)

oh, btw, ECU worths $300+ from Majestic....defintely about $400 from dealer...

bluestreak

iTrader: (1)

All dealers should have the same rate....that's BS

bluestreak

iTrader: (1)

anyone here work at a dealership and have any insights on helping w/ the cost?
or getting it covered under the recall?

bluestreak

iTrader: (1)

bump

zen_master

iTrader: (6)

what's the mileage of ur civic?

if u can hide all of ur mods and return them all back to normal....that's definitely a good tip for your case...

bluestreak

iTrader: (1)

68K miles, I spent ALL day yesterday taking out a four channel amp, two channel amp, 12" sub, RCA wires, distrubution blocks, power, ground, door panels, etc just to show there was no system in there........headlights have been cleared and painted, uppper grill, body kit, tint, exhaust, shaved, etc. etc is still on the car though

jackburton

iTrader: (1)

sucks, why did you run the amp remote to fuse box, and not to HU???

bluestreak

iTrader: (1)

cause i was running factory deck, wish I had put in a switch and just jumped power from the battery. It was fine since 2001, I have no idea what happened. the amp started blowing fuses, and this is where i'm at now.......

02SILVEREX

iTrader: (2)

At 68K, there is no way it's going to be covered under warranty.
Second, there is no way you should be installing a stereo system. Don't take offence to this, please. Just from the sound of whats going on already, things are screwed up. It could be the fuse box, like zen master said. It does have a circut board in it. My best sugestion is to take it to a repair shop. Factory or not. $95/hr is pricy, but if you go to a local shop, chances are they'll cost alot less. You do need to be clear with them about what you did though. That way it'll cost you a bit less to have them figure out what exactly is wrong. Either way you look at it, your going to have to spend some money to fix this one. Why were you using your fuse box for your stereo???
Like I said, I hope you didn't take offence to what I said earlier. If you don't know the right way to do it, ask. But please ASK SOMEONE WHO KNOWS. Wrong information can cause problems, such as this. I know from experiance. Thats why, now if I want to do somthing I don't know about, I research it first. Until I have a complete understanding of it. We all make mistakes. It's hard to admit it. Atleast learn from them. Sorry, had to let off a little steam there.

If there is any way I can help, let me know.

zen_master

iTrader: (6)

*sigh*

big *sigh*

seriously bro, even if my car is fixed.......whats really the guarantee that it'll stay ok if I continue using my system? honestly, im really afraid that it's gonna blew again one day..

but hey? should i give up all my sound system for this incident?

anywho.......one thing, like i told u earlier, in your case...which i think is deeper than mine...you should probably take out all ICE mods........plug in stock deck....and then, let the pro diagnose your car...

another thing........when we're dealing with electronic....even if it's gonna make us embarrased...it's probably a better choice to tell the technician the whole truth....

PS. it's one good thing that you know your amp is causing it.......in my case? i don't even know what the heck happened......everything is OK...and suddenly, one morning....i can't open my car with remote, battery drained..........etc...

02SILVEREX

iTrader: (2)

Why would you want to jump power, from your battery, to your harness??? There may be a better way. You need to have someone look at your stuuf first though.

bluestreak

iTrader: (1)

02silverex, my vic is an 01 and the system has been in since I bought it new with no problems. All i did was tap power from the radio accessory fuse in the box. You make it sound like I connected power and ground together or something stupid like that. search remote amp turn on and anyone w/o an aftermarket deck will tell you the same way to tap power. I could honestly care less about the system anyways, if the amp was blowing fuses, maybe the fuse box was sending out too much power. I hate when I tell the story and people are like - "it's cause of your system"....I've hooked up over a dozen systems before w/o any problems, this wasn't my first one. When I said I should've had a switch, I meant from constant power rather than from my fuse box to avoid all this BS

zen_master

iTrader: (6)

oh, wait da minute..

where did you plug the turn on amp into?

my friend, who's the installer of my system plugged it into the power antenna on the deck........

the technician whom i told you in my first post told me that it's not a very good idea....he told me to tap some power from the 12V cigarrete plug...

bluestreak

iTrader: (1)

I plugged it into the number 25 (i believe) fuse - whatever one it is, it's the third from the right on the bottom row. I don't have an aftermarket deck, so I ran it from the fusebox. They just called and have no idea what the electrical problem is, saying it runs fine and there's no problems. I asked him to check the fusebox and he's supposed to call me back. He agreed that they are weak and can blow.

02SILVEREX

iTrader: (2)

Bluestreak, I wan't trying to bash you. From reading your post, I was a little confused as to what was going on. Now that I know your issue, I'll be able to help a little more. I noticed your from the Boston area. I could ask a few shops I deal with, to see if they are willing to help a friend out. Diag. fees are the biggest problem. It's going to take the most time to chase the problem. But do plan on spending SOME money, to have someone else look at it for you.

The best way to ad an amplifier, to a facory system... If you run a wire from a switched sorce, to a relay. The relay will take the "load" off of the sorce you used to "rob"power from. The relay will all depend on the amp you use. IE: what current your amp. requires for a remote signal. Some amps require a low voltage, 5-7 volts. While others a normal 12 volt. I know it seems like alot of work just to send a signal, but it will prevent these problems.

What happens: The "switched" wire you tap off of, sends a current to the relay. The relay then "turns on". The relay requires a total of four wires. 1."switched sorce" 2.Power IN 3.Power OUT 4.Ground Once activated by the switched wire, the relay opens, sending power from the Power IN, to the Power OUT. This system does benifit from a ground too.

Hope I didn't offend, I only wrote to help. PM me to see if I can find you a shop. I'm also from MA.

zen_master

iTrader: (6)

well dude...

this might be ur problem..

i just got the package today....HOPEFULLY it'll cure my car..

bluestreak

iTrader: (1)

^ That's exactly what I thought my problem was. The dealership sent me on my way, called last night and said they can't find anything wrong with the electrical system? I don't know...the third fuse from your bottom left bos is the one I tapped. My system is completely out now and I have no intensions on hooking it back up again. Car ran fine today? I don't know.........................................they just did the headlight switch recall and didn't charge me anything cause they had no problems with the electrical system. they said codes were all fine.